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Austin(WI) 
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 Topic: CA noise
Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 5:54pm |
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I posted this once before, but never really got any feedback. My CA makes noises in the rearend whenever I put it in 4th gear and start moving. ONLY 4th gear though. It is not the throwout bearing because it does it when I use the handclutch too...Anyone have any ideas what it might be?
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Austin(WI)
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Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 9:31pm |
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Bump
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michaelwis
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Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 9:54pm |
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IF i had a CA , i,d sure try and help , heck i havent even drove one of dem
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WD WD45 DIESEL D 14 D-15 SERIES 2 190XT TERRA TIGER ac allcrop 60 GLEANER F 6060 7040.and attachments for all Proud to be an active farmer
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michaelwis
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Posted: 08 Mar 2012 at 9:55pm |
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Would 4th have a spur or somethin on it ?
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WD WD45 DIESEL D 14 D-15 SERIES 2 190XT TERRA TIGER ac allcrop 60 GLEANER F 6060 7040.and attachments for all Proud to be an active farmer
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Austin(WI)
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 8:04am |
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It also doesn't want to run quite right. You can open it wide up without having the choke halfway out...in fact it doesn't run well at all with out the choke. I have rebuilt the carb and checked the gov. I am wondering if it is the manifold gasket that is bad and sucking air. It smells like it is running rich.
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 8:37am |
If its running rich, could be a few things. Sinking float, dirt or debris. More than likely it has dirt or debris lodged in one of its circuits. Start at the gas tank. Clean out the tank, fuel line, and then clean out the carburetor. Dirt is an enemy to any carburetor updraft or downdraft. As for your rearend noise, it might not be the rear. Might be a tranny noise if it only makes the noise in 4th, possibly a bearing going away? If it were a rearend noise, I would think it would make noise no matter what gear its in. In a situation like that, the only way to repair the problem is get in the tranny or rear and find it. HTH
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Austin(WI)
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 8:57am |
The gas tank was dirty so I cleaned that out thoroughly, and then it kept doing it so I cleaned and rebuilt the carb. New Needle, seat, float, you name it. It still runs rough and doesn't like to run without the choke. I have tried adjusting everything on it. I even took the valve cover off and checked the clearance onthe rocker arm. Nothing has cured it. I might try the Manifold gasket, because I heard that if it is damaged it might be sucking air in. As for the tranny... I don't know, I might just have to tear it apart. I thought some other guys on here said that it might be normal...I don't know though. It for sure sounds like it is coming from the back (either tranny or the final drives) I will have to do some searching I guess.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 9:19am |
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No need to tear anything apart to find out if the manifold is leaking. Spray any combustible liquid around the manifold (brake clean, WD40, carb clean) and around the throttle shaft on the carb. If the engine speeds up at any time you have found a vac leak and need to fix it.
I don't know about the "noise" in 4th gear. 4th doesn't use the secondary shaft as it's straight thru, but the primary shaft works in any gear, seems like any noise from bearings in the primary would be there all the time unlsee it just puts more load on them in 4th.????
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Austin(WI)
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 9:24am |
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I have tried that trick with the starting fluid on the manifold, but It didn't do anything. I can try again and see what happens, otherwise I don't know what could be wrong. Everthing has been cleaned and replaced from the gas tank down to the carb. It is very perplexing.
Edited by Austin(WI) - 09 Mar 2012 at 9:24am
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 9:32am |
Did you get all around the carb too with the spray. A wore out throttle shaft bushing will suck enough air to mess em up. Did you take the drain plug out of the carb and see that you have a full flow all the way from the tank to the bowl for a good minute or so? If you have that, and there are no vacuum leaks, you got something else wrong in the carb if it clears up with the choke.
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GregLawlerMinn
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 9:33am |
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The carb has several very fine passages that are difficult to fully clean. Use a can of brake cleaner and a fine wire spring. With the plastic tube on the brake cleaner, blow out all the fine passages, let set for a minute or two, run the fine wire in them, then blow out with compressed air. Repeat until you get a nice stream of brake cleaner coming out of the passages. You may also want to clean out the sediment bowl screen (or replace it) and check out your air cleaner (they can become plugged and restrict air flow thru the carb).
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Austin(WI)
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 9:36am |
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I will try the spray again and see what happens. I sprayed around the manifold, but not the carb. I will try the drain plug too. When we originally had the CA ( before we traded it for a D10) it ran great! No problems! But when we bought it back 2 years later it ran rought like this, so something happened in between.
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Austin(WI)
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 9:39am |
I cleaned the air filter out. I even let the filter soak in gas and I sprayed it all out real good and put new oil in. Nothing was restricting it. When I open the choke and open it full throttle the tractor surges, when I close the choke halfway it runs like a top. Dad says " just keep the choke half way and the problem is fixed!" lol but it still bothers me. haha I will try the parts cleaner in the carb and in the small passage ways. Hopefully it will cure it.
Edited by Austin(WI) - 09 Mar 2012 at 9:40am
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 9:43am |
Starting fluid (ether) isn't a very good thing to use for looking for vacuum leaks because it evaporates too quickly. Spray carb cleaner is much better. I can tell you from experience with my CA I was constantly having to fiddle with carb adjustments and pull it apart to blow debris out of it. I had replaced the sediment bowl because it was missing the screen when I bought the tractor. What I found is the steel line on mine from the bowl to the carb had deposits from old fuel that were flaking off and plugging the carb. I fabbed up a new steel line and haven't had to open the carb up since. Having to choke it to keep it running says lean. Not enough fuel with the air getting to the engine. When you rebuilt your carb, did you use compressed air to blow out all the passages? I always use spray carb cleaner after I've blow air through to verify that the passage is open. Warped castings from overtightened bolts can be a problem too.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Austin(WI)
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 11:35am |
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I will try using something else to see what kind of results I get. I have a rubber fuel line, and I even replaced it thinking maybe it collapsed or had a hole in in that was sucking it tight, that did nothing. When I cleaned it I used an air compressor to blow the gunk out. What could be warped? Just wondering.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 4:50pm |
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Couple places. Where it bolts to the manifold and the 2 halves of the body. Which carb do you actually have? Could be a Zenith or Marvel Schebler.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Austin(WI)
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Posted: 09 Mar 2012 at 5:22pm |
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It is the Marvel Schebler
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