D-17 Hitch help

 I recently purchased a 1961 D17.  I believe this would be series II. Runs great back tires new, new paint, Had a B before and then a 59 Massey, which threw a rod snowplowing my driveway. Sold the Massey and bought this D17. Problem is this. I was told it was a three point, but upon further checking, I"m not sure what is hanging off the back of this tractor. I think I kinda might have jumped too quickly on the new tires and power steering without figuring out how to attach my backblade to plow snow. Anyhow I'll attach a picture of what I got and quite possibly someone can fill me in. The swivel balls for the blade pins are not there. Anyhow I'll try the picture idea.

What you have is a snap couple with a 3 point adapter, which will work fine.

Edited by Chalmersbob - 08 Feb 2012 at 10:00pm

  I know I need a few small pieces to get the snaps working correctly, I also need the two leveling arms. One is welded and the other is bent. I am pretty fussy guy so I'll need gauges also. Oil pressure is the only  gauge that works. Needs a Creme colored steering wheel and also the tach is missing.Starts and runs perfectly with no smoke or rattles,clutch and brakes are good. Power director works as it should too. PTO runs quiet.Lights are all gone. Power steering smooth and quiet. I know it's POS ground, but I;m not sure if it's 6Vor12V.3rd gear has some noise,but does not popout.

Denny, can help with all your part needs and can answer any questions you may have that don't get answered here. David   734-320-3470   www.djstractorparts.com

To your point about the swivel balls missing from the three point, I see what you are saying, unfortunately they were probably cut out, they are pressed into place on all three points I have ever seen, unless you have a rare style were there are slots, that they can be inserted and turned, you may be out of luck with that adapter.  Rest assured you have the right tractor, but you may have to find another adapter to make the three point work right.  Doesn't mean you can't use what you have, but it will wear funny, push crooked, and be a basic pain in the butt.

Denny,

 I guess I should have looked at the back of this tractor a little closer before I jumped. The stabilizer bar that I'm missing mentioned in an earlier post. Can someone send me a picture and are they still available anywhere ? I don't plan on doing any heavy farm work with this, just a little driveway grading and snow plowing. I see by the other drawings that the chains are attached at the wrong point on the arms. The tractors saving grace is new tires and engine is very strong, Director works as it should and although 3 gear is somewhat noisy it doen't pop out in high or low.Someday I'd love to put a loader on it,even a trip bucket would work for me.Had a Freeman Trip loader om my 50 and althought it greatly added to the steering effort, it would move alot of snow.And once you got the hang of it you could move dirt and grade with it. And I checked,it is 12V Pos grounnd. no problem for me.I'm gonna need a tach and I'm sure drivecable.Haven't checked distributor yet. Gas guage doesn''t work. Are they just a mechanical float arm off the back of the guage or electrical ? Temp guage doesn't work,Amp guage wiggles but stays at 12 oclock.Hoorah Oil pressure guage does work. And who sells PappY steps for a D. It's big step for an old fat guy. Oh and yes a creme steering wheel and a new seat bushing kit.Oh and a seat cover for my cold hard metal pan. I guess I have to learn a whole new tractor. Almost forgot two little lever handles for up down lever and traction booster lever. Oh and lights, The list goes on and on......

Dennis

 

If I remember right you "feed the fields" to polarize the generator and regulator to let them know which way to charge. That means you touch battery voltage to the field side of the generator or regulator. The field side of the generator is stamped with an F while the armature side has an A. One way to check the generator is to take the belt loose and then feed the field which should make the generator "motor" or try to turn. Sometimes the pulley needs some help to get it going, but if it fights you or try's to turn that is a good sign it should work. Another way to test the generator is to ground out or "full field" it while it is running which will make it charge at full capacity. Do not do this for to long cause it can burn the generator up.

All that said I would replace the generator with a Delco 10si alternator and make it a 12volt negative ground system. You will thank yourself in the long run.