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Don(MI) 
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Joined: 15 Sep 2009
Location: Michigan
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 Topic: New radiators
Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 8:05pm |
I have been told in the past, that todays newer radiators are not built like the ones of the past.
I think i might be needing a new radiator for the C, as the one on it is just about done for.
The hardest it will work on a hot, hot day in july, would be cultivating maybe. Other than that, plowing in the spring or fall with the 1 bottom plow.
Should I rebuild my core at a local rad shop, or buy new?
Thanks!
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Galatians 5:22-24
"I got a pig at home in a pen and corn to feed him on, All I need is a pretty little girl to feed him when I'm gone!"
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R.W
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Joined: 31 Dec 2010
Location: Swanton, OH
Points: 2975
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Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 8:20pm |
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Just got a new radiator for my Farmall Super Mta and also one for my John Deere MI. And NO they are not made like the old ones! The one on the Farmall weighs alittle over half of the old one, is that good or bad? I don't know but you can tell the old one was made to last. On the new one the fins, tank, and tubes are thinner. Almost the same story on the John Deere. The Rad shop said it would $700+ to re-core the old one for my Farmall vs $550 for a new radiator (which I found out later that they could be bought on Ebay for $350). Long story short ask what it cost to re-core first, then if you choose to buy a new one look around and find the best price you can.
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79fordblake
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Joined: 01 Jul 2010
Location: West Kentucky
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Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 10:06pm |
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I bought one for the WD45 awhile back cost a little under 200 bucks. Seems like a great rad so far...old one was shot.....
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7445
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Posted: 10 Jan 2012 at 10:10pm |
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Newer ones probably use more aluminum, which is lighter than the originals.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Steve in NJ
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Andover, NJ
Points: 11926
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 6:24am |
The older radiator weighs more than a new one for two reasons. Manufacturing metals are lighter on the new ones, and the old radiator has 60+ years of muck in the bottom of it. Not to say the OEM one isn't tougher because it probably is. When I restored my B 11 years ago, I had the radiator rodded out. My radiator man said the crud that came outta' that thing you could start a garden with. But, its been is service now for 11 years and still goin' strong so far. I purchased a new Rad from "Mr. Tall n' Skinny" Tony C in Oregon for my WC. Nice lookin' radiator, went in nice, grille fit nice to. Haven't put it into service yet, but overall looks like a nice radiator for a re-make. Talk to TC, he'll fix ya up with a new Rad...
Steve@B&B
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Don(MI)
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Location: Michigan
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 6:36am |
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Thanks steve. I am all for getting a new rad, but hoping it will perform as well as the original, on a scorchin hot July day, laborin in the field.
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Galatians 5:22-24
"I got a pig at home in a pen and corn to feed him on, All I need is a pretty little girl to feed him when I'm gone!"
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
Points: 29792
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 6:48am |
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Had a new one on a WD I bought and it vibrated apart and started to leak. There also was a piece of metal bouncing around inside on top. Looked like some kind of baffle. I bought an old radiator and put that on and so far so good.
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-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... -
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macec3(TX)
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 7:01am |
Ordered a new radiator a couple of years ago for a tractor. Found out that most, if not all new tractor radiators are made overseas. Quality is not what it once was. Sold the tractor shortly after putting new radiator in, so I don't know if there have been any problems.
Definately not original equipment quality.
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Stan IL&TN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
Points: 6730
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 7:17am |
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Ordered a new one for the Ferg last week. $350.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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KenBWisc
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Joined: 15 Sep 2009
Location: Fall Creek, WI
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 10:13am |
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The condition of the tanks are a factor. If the seems are broken and leaking it may be best (?) , at least lower cost to buy new.
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'34 WC #629, '49 G, '49 B, '49 WD, '62 D-19, '38 All Crop 60 and still hunting!
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bakwoodsfarm
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Joined: 02 Sep 2010
Location: Woodleaf,NC
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 11:40am |
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We can get one for $225.00+shipping. Measure what you have, should be 15" wide and 14 3/16' tall (just the core).
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Don(MI)
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Location: Michigan
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 11:58am |
Found them online, as low as $190 + $30 shipping.
Still undecided, I would like to go with a new radiator, but sure don't want it falling apart like what happened to Lonn. Do you know how many hours it had on it before that happened Lonn?
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Galatians 5:22-24
"I got a pig at home in a pen and corn to feed him on, All I need is a pretty little girl to feed him when I'm gone!"
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Gary in da UP
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: EUP of Mi.
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 4:31pm |
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Don, I have been repairing and recoreing radiators for over 10 years now, and I am biased to recoreing rather than an aftermarket. A "C" core I have not priced out but a quality made in michigan heatex core for a WC,WD, WD45, costs me the same money as what a complete ready to go made in God knows where aftermarket rad. Its up to you, but I look at this , Buy one made in China or elsewhere, and deal with whatever quality-control they ship to you, watch your money go across the ocean... or support a craftsman that signs his name on every thing he touch's, some one who will take care of your problem should it occur. I have never had one of my recores come back, I have had to repair more aftermarket rads than I have fingers to count on, because they leaked, were not assembled to fit the grille housing, the inlet/ and or outlets were not the right size or the shroud wouldn't fit , etc, etc, . My advice, bite the bullet, support your local rad shop. Some day you may need him to repair or recore a rad with no aftermarket support, then whaddaya' gonna do?
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Creek Jenkins
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Northern Minn
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 5:10pm |
I design and test industrial rads for a living, mostly for mining equipment. We do get a fair number of inquries to replace rads on newer stuff with plastic tanks, chinese rads etc. etc. The new stuff is usually just made lighter. Some manufacturers and some end users would rather pull off a leaking rad, toss it and plug in a cheap new one and not deal with the "hassle" of repairing the old. Also, rad repair shops are under pressure from environmentally leaning pollution control agencies to control lead etc. so it makes it expensive to run a repair shop so we are losing a lot of the "old hands" as they retire and the shops disappear. If you can find a guy like Gary UP who uses good parts and knows what he is doing I think I would go the recore way and save as much of the original parts as you can. Even if the tanks are busted up they can usually be rebuilt.
cheers,
Creek
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Jacob (WI,ND)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 8:06pm |
 Gary in da UP wrote:
Don, I have been repairing and recoreing radiators for over 10 years now... |
Really?! You will have to tell us, or at least me more Gary. I have a bunch of radiators that either need, or will eventually need to be gone through. Mainly for my tractors, but also for my '56 Chevy Pickup, and someday for Dad's Model A ford. Anyway, tell me more about your services. Finding anyone that works on them in our neck of the woods is near impossible. Back when I did Lil' Allis we had a guy at his place called Radiator Plus do it and he did a great job, but he doesn't do it any more. Now this past summer we took my WD radiator which needed some help, but was fixable to a guy in Iron River WI, to fix, but he did a lousy job, and it will need more help to be up to my standards (loose sheet metal that wasn't soldered on good, etc...) So I will not be going back to him. Do you know of anyone else in this area (around Ashland, WI) that does this work anymore? If not, we may have to look into you doing some work. I'm willing to pay a fair price if the work is top notch and done right. It's so frustrating to find a good guy that we have been tempted to try to lean how to solder and fix them ourselves, so at least we have no one to blame but ourselves.
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Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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bluebanshee
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 9:41pm |
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Why not a good used one? Tractor salvage place here had B/C rads for $100 and had pick of half a dozen.
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79fordblake
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Location: West Kentucky
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Posted: 11 Jan 2012 at 11:18pm |
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My new radiator came from Northern Radiator and I got it through ebay. It seems to be built well. Bolt holes line up well and so do the hoses and temp gauge.
Even on the hottest days pulling a plow or mowing or whatever else temp stays in the lower green portion of gauge. Has a new water pump and thermostat as well. I don't foresee any problems with this radiator.
The old one had been repaired multiple times and was beginning to leak at the seams. The top neck had been broke off sometime and put back on and the temp gauge wouldn't go on b/c it didn't line up with the hole in the hood anymore.
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Don(MI)
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Posted: 12 Jan 2012 at 4:53am |
I would go for a good working used one, but they are tough to find. Wheres the salvage yard?
79fordblake, Thats what I was hoping to hear. thanks
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Galatians 5:22-24
"I got a pig at home in a pen and corn to feed him on, All I need is a pretty little girl to feed him when I'm gone!"
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 12 Jan 2012 at 6:23am |
What Creek mentioned is very true. Here in NJ, there are a lot of shops folding up mainly because of environmental issues. I'm about to loose my Radiator man now because he's retiring and can't take the issues associated with running his shop with the EPA. I do have a backup Radiator guy, but after him who knows where I'll have to go. I also lost my Armature guy some years back that used to do all my rewinding of arms for me. He got out just before the EPA put the kaboshes on him about lead, flux, and solder in the armature business. It stinks, but what are ya gonna do? Now I have to send the arms out to Canada which of coarse makes things a lot more expensive, and now shipping is involved.....Sheesh!
Steve@B&B
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