7000 red belly clutch

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   Has anyone ever upgraded a red belly 7000 to hyd clutch like the black belly 7000?

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Sam T-Ga Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Monticello, Ga. Points: 392	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sam T-Ga Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 7000 red belly clutch Posted: 05 Dec 2011 at 8:49pm
	Has anyone ever upgraded a red belly 7000 to hyd clutch like the black belly 7000?

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Ron(AB) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Location: Alberta Points: 962	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ron(AB) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 08 Dec 2011 at 11:14pm
	No, the dry one works just fine. Ask someone who has both versions which they prefer.

Sam T-Ga Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Monticello, Ga. Points: 392	Post Options Post Reply Quote Sam T-Ga Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Dec 2011 at 2:56pm
	Running a round hay baler puts a lot of use on the throwout brg when you stop every minute or 2 and hold the clutch in for 30 sec. while you net wrap and dump the bale. I have a clutch job to do now because throwout brg locked up and wore off ends of fingers.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21866	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Dec 2011 at 3:47pm
	I don't think it would be too difficult to drill/tap/grind a channel into the throwout brg sleeve to be able to pump a shot of grease in it once a year.

tbran Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3526	Post Options Post Reply Quote tbran Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Dec 2011 at 5:57pm
	Sam, I am sorry I can't find the info , but the solution to this is a diaphram clutch and a combine flat flywheel . The diphram goes 'overcenter' and relieves the stress on the bearing. New clutch technology gives holding ability and lower spring pressures . Someone has even posted this on some forum before with a pressure plate that uses the 6 bolts of the dampner - which may have been drilled and tapped to one size larger? Maybe a search would turn it up. As to change over, wouldn't tackle it unless had one junked to switch. Black belly's were notorius for hard shifting unless trans brake adjustment was right on - and that is after oil is hot.

Hurst Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Midway, Ky Points: 1218	Post Options Post Reply Quote Hurst Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 09 Dec 2011 at 6:49pm
	One thing I should've thought of in my message to you Sam, the black belly 7000 has the thicker discs and separator plates in the 1st range that are of a different pattern (different "channels" in the wear discs). My 7000 had heat damage to these discs (warped front plate, discs, and separator plates in the first couple closest to the front), so heat dissipation may be a problem on the maroon belly with only 4 of the thinner plates. Just something I thought of. And, to top it all off, AGCO no longer makes the wear discs, just the separator plates. Hurst
	1979 Allis Chalmers 7000 5800 Hours

Ron(AB) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Location: Alberta Points: 962	Post Options Post Reply Quote Ron(AB) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Dec 2011 at 7:52pm
	I use mine for round baling too... maroon belly with dry clutch. I typically make 1000-1500 bales/year. If you watch your technique of how you operate the clutch, you can still get 2500 (or more) hours on a clutch before rebuild. For the cost of the tractor and its age, that's pretty good to me. The techniques are: start out with low RPM's, never ride the clutch, never hold the clutch down while the twine is wrapping, let it out quickly and smoothly as possible in low range on the powershift, and when the clutch is out then bring it up to speed. You may find though, that the clutch fork could be due for a rebuild due to all that usage. And check to see if the fork shaft is straight - they sometimes can be bent. Clean and re-grease the bushings and it will feel like new. These are as easy of a tractor to due a clutch as any. My only concern with mine is the hydraulic valve stack, powershift, and line leaks. I've got multiple spots on the ground where it drips... how is yours for leaks?

MACK Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664	Post Options Post Reply Quote MACK Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 10 Dec 2011 at 10:00pm
	The reason the valve stack leaks on a 7000 is the dumb engineer put the valve stack on with plungers up where dirt collects around them causing them to wear out and pit. MACK