Add intercooler to 3500?

We installed one of the military 3500 engines in our 220 last year and had the pump delivery bumped up a tad while at the shop to have the tractor pump governor installed. . Dyno sheet that came with the engine read 147HP at 1800 RPM, we are now at 220 tractor RPM spec with delivery at the generator spec plus 10%.  No idea what it is putting out HP wise but it's up there. The brother-in law didn't like me spanking his warmed up 1066 in the field so the HP race is on now, LOL.  We installed an Isspro pyrometer on it and using 1300 degrees as a max we have to back it down at times for exhaust temps, like hills and tough spots. We were pulling 12 twisted shanks in 5th.  Since originality is out of the picture anyway what will an intercooler do for me and how big a deal is it to install one on the 3500 engine?   Only tough thing it does is a few hours of recreational tillage each year the rest of the time it's just arm candy. Thanks in advance

Edited by Butch(OH) - 09 Dec 2011 at 6:28am

Why can't you just add an air to air intercooler from something else?  Put it in front of the rad or something.

Adding an air-to-air also puts hotter air to the radiator probably causing overheating on an 80 degree plus day. To properly install the OEM intercooler stuff, the radiator would need the lower outlet moved to the left side. Why not make a fuel tank under the RH platform and install a homemade water injection (windshield washer fluid) kit, triggered by a turbo boost pressure switch......12 ounces in 30 seconds yields right at 60 PTO HP more and exhaust temps drop drastically. It would only turn on when the pulling was tough and would be off any other time. You could hide everything and just claim the extra tank was for diesel fuel.

I've used two systems over the years tractor pulling. The early system was simply a windhsield washer tank from a car or pickup with the pump built into it. We used to hide it inside the air cleaner can. I think there is probably washer pumps now that would just fit in-between two hoses, which would be great for your homemade tank. Use a paper in-line gas filter between the pump and orifice to keep orifice clean.There is usually a pipe plug in the "J" tube going to the turbo inlet that you can mount your homemade orifice. The orifice is just something similar to a carb jet that you keep drilling out the hole until you get the ounces per minute you want....you might try 12 oz in 60 seconds to start with. Regular cheap windshield washer pre-mixed works great.

Pre-turbo takes less fancy equipment. Never had an issue pooling, because it should only be used at full throttle under load anyway.

Used in the Fall when ambient temps are 60 degrees or less and the radiator is absolutely in perfect shape, you won't have any trouble. Question is, if you can't use all of the available HP all the time, why would one want it that way?? Engineers designed the cooling systems on MOST newer AC tractors to run 100 degrees over ambient temp at 100% load, so on a 90 degree day, the coolant temp will be 190 degrees....a 100 degree day and it will be pushing 200 degrees. That is with everything in perfect shape by the way.

I had one added to my 670T in the 7045. It works fine, and I know it is different then a D21, 210, or 220. My question would be if there is any differences in the radiarors on 7045, 7060, and the 7080?

WHILE  during my travels with AC in S La - hello Thad - how is everyone in Abbyville - we had some, well a bunch of real heating issues with the 210 -220's as well as d21's and especially 190xt's.  One farmer south of Cane equipment around Sunshine told me to "come see, I gonna told you how we be fix'd dem tangs."  There was a 220 with a neat set of louvers in the hood top and underneath was a 2nd little radiator with an electric fan drawing air from top .  Taking this one step forward to this discussion - I 'done' this on my '77 7040- after adding the intercooler and experiencing heating problem with a 'tad' more fuel - and it works.   The intercooler sends water down one side and it makes a turn and comes back the other side (be carefull when working on the intercooler - if one puts it back together wrong it renders it useless  ) .  Drill and tap the end cap, put a divider in like the front end and run coolant to separate radiator then back to the other side of the rear cap.   Hard to tell exact but nearly a hundred degree drop in temp at full power from top  bottom of intercooler best I can remember.