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D-15 carb question |
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Les ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Nebraska Points: 17 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 07 Dec 2011 at 6:12pm |
Is the D-15 Series II carb the same as the Series I D-15 carb when it comes to adjustment? I'm using a series II manual attempting to adjust a carb on a series I. Right or wrong? any difference? Dumping in way too much fuel currently. Thanks.
Edited by Les - 07 Dec 2011 at 6:17pm |
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Chalmersbob ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 2122 |
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I don't think there is any difference in the adjustments. The main jet is the critical one to get adjusted. The idle adjustment regulates the amount of air not gas flow. Bob
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11926 |
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The D15 Ser.I & Ser.II both came with the same carb. Problem is, there's three different carbs that could have come on the D15. The Marvel TSX815, the TSX844, or the TSX869. All three are in the same family, and adjusting would be the same for all three. If you have an over fueling problem, you probably have dirt or debris present, sinking or high float, or possibly a bent pontoon hanging up on the inside of the float bowl wall...
Steve@B&B |
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SenseiCrusher ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 20 Sep 2011 Points: 124 |
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I have a Marvel on my D17 most idle airs are the same 1 1/2 turns out. The main jet took 3 full turns. Someone posted a good tuning method earlier to run up to half throttle and lean it out then turn it rich and set it in between. Worked well for me.
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Les ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Nebraska Points: 17 |
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Thanks, i appreciate the info as this is puking out lots of gas and won't stay running unless the choke is pulled out most of the way.
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Hang up and drive.
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22822 |
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If you need to pull the choke to keep it running, your problem may not have anything to do with the carb. You have a fuel shortage or starvation problem, not too much fuel. You may want to check your fuel supply for restrictions.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11926 |
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OR a very loose throttle shaft sucking in air! You didn't mention about closing the choke to keep it running in your first post. A whole different senario there... |
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bdallman ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Nov 2011 Location: Holton KS Points: 1133 |
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Yeah i had this problem on a wd45 It was not as bad as your sounds but I would have to hold the choke just slightly to make her run normal. Started looking for a vaccum leak cause it was obviously getting to much air in the mixture. I took a can of carb cleaner and starting spraying around the intake manifold looking for cracks that would cause a vaccum issue. I them started to spray around the carb and finally found the problem. Where the throttle linkage goes into the carb was sucking air. Everytime i sprayed right there the motor would cut out/sputter. That would be a good thing to try if i was you.
There is supposed to be a felt seal that keeps them from sucking air right there. Not sure yet myself as i am waiting for the new carb kit to come in.
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1954 CA, 1952 WD with Freeman Loader,1955 WD45, 1963 D19 Gas, 1984 620H, 1980’s AC Forklift, 66 All Crop Harvester, White Top Roto Baler, Misc S.C. Equip and AC Collectibles.
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Les ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Nebraska Points: 17 |
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Supposedly the carb is new, I just bought the tractor last week. An older gentleman owned it previously and his son is who was selling it. He told me it had set for a few years, the main jet had quite a bit of what appeared to be fine sand plugging it, the tank doesn't appear to have anything else in it now. I ran it down the road and through all the gears trying to get it jump out of gear but it wouldn't run without having the choke almost shut, when the tractor is shut down it drains gas out of the bowl from underneath. Currently it's in my neighbors shop and he's helping (warm) as my garage isn't.
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Hang up and drive.
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22822 |
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If it leaks out of the bowl when siting, you have a problem with the float. Either the float is set wrong or sticking down, possibly fuel of a liquid making it not float. Sounds like you need to take the carb off and clean and repair what is wrong along with checking for restrictions in your complete fuel system from tank to carb.
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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I would be guessing you have a dirt problem. Probly have a hunk a dirt under the float valve seat along with other restrictions toward the tank from the carburetor.
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Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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It adjust the air flow for (idle). If you call it adjusting, for the faster than idle air flow it depends on the engine RPM's.
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Les ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Nebraska Points: 17 |
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Need to probably take care of some normal tune-up and maintenance before jumping off a cliff here. All good advice here as well, Tuck, the carb has now been off twice, main jet was partially blocked, clean as a whistle now, tank has been drained and doesn't look like anything remains, could be wrong though just looks clean with no particulate matter roaming around. I imagine after sitting for so long it's bound to have a dirty fuel system. More updates after more digging. Thanks for all the info. Les
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Hang up and drive.
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CTuckerNWIL ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22822 |
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Is the float set properly? With the carb split, and turned upside down the float should be parallel to the gasket surface. Does the float maybe have a pinhole in it letting it fill with gas so it won't float?
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http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF |
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Bob D. (La) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Louisiana Points: 25529 |
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In cleaning the fuel tank, did you remove the sediment bowl. If not, very likely the neck is full of crud.Also, don't forget the fuel line itself. It could also have partial blockage, as well as fitting into carb itself.Your either no9t getting enough fuel flow, or have one large air leak at intake or carb itself.
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When you find yourself in a hole,PUT DOWN THE SHOVEL!!!
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Les ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Nebraska Points: 17 |
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Carb taken apart again, float seems to be set properly (I didn't see it neighbor retired mech did) all plugs replaced and that was part of the problem, deep down I kinda figured that. Runs much better but still have a few leaks to fix, seems to idle alright but when the throttle gets opened at all the engine dies. The other 15 I had a while back would only do that if the engine was cold. Upon draining the oil pan the oil appeared to have lots of gas in it, at least it smelled like it and was thin so it is coming out of the exhaust manifold. Will this straighten out after running it for a while? One more thing I didn't realize before now, the carb is a Zenith? I didn't get a number off it but I didn't know they made carbs for the D-15.
Edited by Les - 08 Dec 2011 at 5:23pm |
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Hang up and drive.
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Les ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Nebraska Points: 17 |
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Wonderful, the carb has a 1/2 inch long crack in it on the top half not previously seen. New carb? JB weld? Welding/brazing? I'm not sure how it was missed before. We tried a carb off another tractor and it runs like it should. I don't like "patch jobs" but would rather not spend the bucks for a new carb, I will give the previous owner a call as maybe he still has the original so I'll have 2 junk carbs. This just keeps getting better and better.
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Hang up and drive.
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Les ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Nebraska Points: 17 |
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Does anyone have experience patching carbs? Works? doesn't work?
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Hang up and drive.
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11926 |
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I've repaired a lot of carbs for our customer's to save them money, and the repair was fine. Greatly depends on where the crack is located at. A two part clear epoxy works well in some cases. Like I said, it depends on where the crack is located. Sometimes you may have to replace the whole top if its around the venturi area. Make sure the top is from the same carburetor or carb family. Might be able to help you out with a top. We have quite a few carb cores. Shoot me the TSX # if interested.....
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Les ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Nebraska Points: 17 |
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Thanks for the response Steve, the crack is towards the top of the top half in front, looks like when a plug was screwed in it cracked the threaded? hub, sorry don't know what you call it. I don't have access to the carb currently as the neighbor decided to take it to a friend of his to look at and I don't know where he lives and the neighbor is on vacation so I have a 7000 lb paper weight. The carb is a Zenith 12566
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