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TREVMAN 
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Joined: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Regina,Sask,Can
Points: 1635
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 Topic: WD unseized!
Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 8:57pm |
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After a couple months soaking and rocking in high gear, the engine is loose. I wet sanded the cyls with 220 grit in acetone and ATF, got them pretty clean. Engine turns over quite easy with crank now. Can I/should I hone the cyls now? I put some more ATF and acetone back in. What should my next step be? There is a ridge on each cyl that can be seen, and my finger nail will just catch it. Is that acceptable, will honing clean that up? Any advice on this engine is appreciated, thanks, Trev.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22825
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Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 9:05pm |
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Where do you wanna go with it. I would guess if the engine was stuck, the rings are probably stuck in the pistons. Mic the bores to see how far egged and OS they are. If they aren't bad, ream the ridge with a ridge reamer, remove the pistons, hone some cross hatch back in the cylinders and replace the rings. Well, while your in that far, you might as well pull the sleeves and put new o-rings on em.
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D-17_Dave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mocksville NC
Points: 990
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Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 9:06pm |
Do yourself a favor, now that you have the engine free totally dissasemble it and clean the crud out of the ring grooves of the piston and inspect it all for damage.
Any sanding, honing, etc. will all result in making the cyl. larger and more out of tolerance. It will also lead to making the cyl. out of round making it nearly imposible to fully seat any rings. If the cylinders are not scratched or pitted then you might scuff them and after a thorough cleaning resuse them.
Install new rings and away you can go with some confidence that the engine will perform well and not be a smoker.
Just my 2 cents worth....
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CTuckerNWIL
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
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Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 9:26pm |
 D-17_Dave wrote:
Do yourself a favor, now that you have the engine free totally dissasemble it and clean the crud out of the ring grooves of the piston and inspect it all for damage.
Any sanding, honing, etc. will all result in making the cyl. larger and more out of tolerance. It will also lead to making the cyl. out of round making it nearly imposible to fully seat any rings. If the cylinders are not scratched or pitted then you might scuff them and after a thorough cleaning resuse them.
Install new rings and away you can go with some confidence that the engine will perform well and not be a smoker.
Just my 2 cents worth.... |
I agree with everything but the honing part. Anybody worth his salt with a good hone can put crosshatch in the cylinder without making it measurably different. I'm not talking about one of those ball on the end of a wire things, I talking a real cylinder hone like a sunnen, that can be used to make the bore round if it isn't and can be used to remove taper. You can't make the egged bore round or the tapered bore straight without enlarging it but you can put crosshatch on the surface without enlarging the bore.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Prairie City Ia
Points: 10508
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Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 9:33pm |
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Then there is the sand left from the paper that got down on top of the top ring. I would at least pull the pistons out and ring them like Charlie says. If you want to get really technical, a ring ridge means the cylinders are worn beyond tolerance. Not that you can't ring it and have it run good without a bunch of smoke, I'm picky enough that I just can't leave it like that.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Orange Blood
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Joined: 29 Nov 2010
Location: ColoradoSprings
Points: 4053
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Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 9:41pm |
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I hate to disagree, with above, but if you put new rings in and don't get rid of the old ridge, you will break every top compression ring shortly after firing her up. If you can catch it with a fingernail, you need to get a ridge reamer in there at the minimum. As cheap as aftermarker cylinders and pistons are, I would just save a few bucks, and get new ones.
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 03 Nov 2011 at 10:00pm |
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Yep, gotta ream the ridge. Specially if you wanna use a good hone to crosshatch it. You can mess up a good set of stones trying to get rid of the ridge, that's why they made reamers to do it.
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
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Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 7:24am |
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I think C tucker had the right question, "where are you going with it?" whats the rest of the tractor like? if its not just a parts tractor and has potential then I full agree with Brian and others go all the way sounds like you have the patience to do a good job.
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TREVMAN
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Joined: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Regina,Sask,Can
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Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 10:51am |
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Rest of the tractor is excellent except for the fenders which are banged up, I found some new in orange primer for $250 a set. The plans for the tractor are restoration, new front tires, sandblast, primer, paint, decals. Flush all fluids and replace, replace leaky seals where required. Switch to distributor and Pertronix. Its already 12 volt. New battery box. It came with a carb kit. Tractor will go to some shows and be used on my small (200 acre) farm. Ive got nothing to lose by getting it running now and when I get it in the shop after Christmas I will likely sleeve, piston, ring, and bearing. I paid $400 for the unit...Trev.
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 11:25am |
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My tractor is serial number 130 which I thought was interesting, Trev.
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JimD
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mounds, OK
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Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 12:12pm |
You used the word restoration. That means a lot of different things to different folks. But if you are even going to spend any money on paint, I would rebuild the engine properly. That paint will suffer the first time you open the engine back up to repair what wasn't done right the 1st time. Engine kits are not that much. You have already spent a gasket set, and rings at a minimum. It would be faster and not much more to drop a whole new kit in and know that it will out last you. JimD
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n5sgo
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Joined: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Catoosa OK
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Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 12:43pm |
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You know of course that at the moment you may not need to have the crank turned, or a new camshaft. Once you run it there could be rust and other junk go through the system that destroys the bearings. Just worked on a WD that was done like that, rust took out the gear on the camshaft that runs the oil pump and the #1 rod bearing.
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WC Dale
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Joined: 03 Nov 2010
Location: Indiana
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Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 1:04pm |
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Trev:
I've got a new set of 4 1/8" dia. pistons and sleeves with the wrist pins, rings, and o rings that I bought this summer for my WF. Since then, I found a set of N.O.S. 4" standard compression that I want to use. (I don't want the added compression on a stem winder) I am going to sell the 4 1/8" for $300.00 plus shipping. PM me if you might want to go this way. Dale
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B26240
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: mn
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Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 3:26pm |
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Trev another reason to pull liners is scale buildup in block around liners, the $300 set above sounds like a good deal the last set I bought was about $500.
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 10:43pm |
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These are good thoughts and I appreciate it. Apparently I do have something to lose by getting it running now;bearings, crank and camshaft. So, wont be doing that... For me, when I speak of restoration whether it is on a tractor, truck, motorcycle or car,or anything else I go at, it means to repair or replace what is neccessary to make the unit look better than new, and to be reliable and operate well and safely. I will definately look into the engine kit, and tear down and clean the engine up properly. Thanks gentlemen, Trev.
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TREVMAN
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Posted: 04 Nov 2011 at 10:51pm |
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I forgot to ask, what does the 4 1/8th kit move the cid to? Is there a little more power to be had? Will the stock carb still work properly? Its been 25 years since I sleeved an AC engine, are there any special tools needed? Does a service manual cover the job fairly well? Thanks, Trev.
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WD45
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Joined: 20 Sep 2009
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Posted: 05 Nov 2011 at 8:25am |
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4.125" bore = 213 cu in
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Fred Dunlop, G,B,CA, WC,WF, 3 WD45`s,gas, diesel and LP,U,D10 series III, D12,D14,D15 SERIES II,D17 Series IV in Gas and Diesel ,D19 GAS and D21,170 185,210 ,220 an I-600 8070 fwd, 716H and 1920H
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