| Author |
 Topic Search  Topic Options
|
RockyBottomFarm 
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Oct 2011
Location: Fall Creek WI
Points: 253
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Topic: Allis B axle swap
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 7:31am |
I have a B that i want to replace the right side axle and wheel casting because a past owner welded them together.
yesterday i bought another B at an auction and want to pull the parts off that tractor and swap them.
Just dont know the best way to swap it, either the whole planetary set up (portal drop) four bolts that go into a transmission.... OR pull the bull gear cover off and swap just axle shaft???
any help would be greatly appreciated. will get a few pics up as fast as i can
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
GBACBFan
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Green Bay WI
Points: 2662
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 7:55am |
I would pull the whole unit and swap it, and then work on/repair the welded unit at your convenience. You may also be able to pick up just a complete final drive set up to fix the second one, and have two running tractors. it would be easier than fixing the welded mess you'd be dealing with. That's my thought, but others will offer thoughts here as well.
By the way, welcome to the Forum. This is a good place to hang out. Fall Creek is a very pretty area. I've been through there many times.
|
|
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they
are genuine." - Mark Twain
|
|
RockyBottomFarm
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Oct 2011
Location: Fall Creek WI
Points: 253
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 8:04am |
|
my plans are to sell the newest tractor or part it out, I'd like to have a second tractor but at this time I plan on swaping a few parts, get it running and try to sell it whole, if not part it, its kinda rough. I have my eye on a C with a adjustable wide front and a hole in the left side of the block. So the welded axle is useable, just not pretty, dont plan on fixing it, the new tractor has rear wheel weights that i am keeping and until i swap the axle i can put the right one on. you'll see when i get a pic up.
|
|
GBACBFan
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Green Bay WI
Points: 2662
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 8:12am |
If you do part it out, I may be interested in the hubs and spindles if they're not wallowed out too bad.
The wide front C would be a good aquisition. If the engine runs in the B you're thinking about parting out, put it in the C and then part out rest the B. I'm sure you know the final drives on a C are 6" wider/side than a B, and although they will interchange you'll be creating a morphodite. I believe the AC bug has been biting you.
|
|
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they
are genuine." - Mark Twain
|
|
jccleav
Orange Level
Joined: 11 May 2011
Location: Indianola IA
Points: 211
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 8:19am |
|
If the brakes, bearings and seals are good from the donor tractor I would swap the whole final drive.
|
|
The joy is in the journey.
AC "B" and "WD" and "C"
|
|
RockyBottomFarm
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Oct 2011
Location: Fall Creek WI
Points: 253
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 8:21am |
if i dont have any bites on the tractor in a couple days i will start parting, i will check them parts out today.
the motor swap is the plan, but will try to keep it as origonal as possible. thats what im trying to do with my first B, finding nicer parts as I go. The Im interested in because I'd like the wider track width. I use my tractors, side raking hay, cutting firewood, plowing.
Im a john deere guy, born and raised, but i love my little B
|
|
steve(ill)
Orange Level Access
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 87645
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 8:34am |
|
Park the tractor under a barn beam above the axle. Jack the tire up an inch (under the differential). Put wedges in between the front axle and motor so it can not pivot when you take the final drive case off. Take off the 4 clamps on the wheel hub and roll the tire/ wheel out of the way. Take the 4 stud nuts off the final drive to differential housing. Han a 3/4 ton chain fall over the barn beam and wrap a calbe around the final drive near the brake bands with another cable or small comealong to the brake hub. Pry the final drive away from the tractor. The shaft splines into the differential bevel gear shaft. Check the seal on the end of the differential hub -- probably will leak when reassembled if not new.
|
|
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
|
|
RockyBottomFarm
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Oct 2011
Location: Fall Creek WI
Points: 253
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 8:43am |
|
so there is only a seal? mounting surface has no gasket or silicone? where can i get new seals if needed?
|
|
jccleav
Orange Level
Joined: 11 May 2011
Location: Indianola IA
Points: 211
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 8:57am |
|
No gasket or silicone. The seals are available from your local auto parts store. I used a couple of posts cut to length under the foot rest to support the tractor. Best of luck and welcome.
|
|
The joy is in the journey.
AC "B" and "WD" and "C"
|
|
Ken in Texas
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
Points: 5919
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 9:11am |
I'm trying to salvage and make useable several B final drives equiped with the 5 bolt splined adapter hubs. The adapter hub and axle splines are shot from years of running loose and my idea is to weld the hubs to the axle and, in a way, make a flanged axle out of them by welding them together. I haven't done a set yet but I can't see why it will not work.
If I don't screw up the the threads on the axles I could even put the retaining nut and washer back on just for looks.
I don't see all that many Bs running around these days equiped with the 5 bolt adapter hubs and the slightly dished reversable wheels. It seems like I only see them on pre war Bs with the tall spindle adjustable front axles. I makes sense that if the front axle is adjustable AC made it possible to design a way for the rear tread to be adjustable too.
When you think about it Bs in late 38 and in 39 with the arched adjustable axles had those rear rims where the excentrics were clamped to the bead flange of the rim. Turning these rims around made quite a bit if rear tread difference
The post here about a wheel welded to the axle makes me think my idea will work.
|
|
RockyBottomFarm
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Oct 2011
Location: Fall Creek WI
Points: 253
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 9:32am |
|
|
|
RockyBottomFarm
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Oct 2011
Location: Fall Creek WI
Points: 253
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 9:34am |
[QUOTE=RockyBottomFarm] 
This is the cobbled mess welded together, its strong but ugly
|
|
Ken in Texas
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
Points: 5919
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 2:22pm |
Rocky Bottom
A little tip to make the pics fit the format. Resize to 680 X420.
It is amazing what folks did to keep these old Bs in the field working.
|
|
RockyBottomFarm
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Oct 2011
Location: Fall Creek WI
Points: 253
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 5:05pm |
hey, so both tractors are all apart, going to replace the seal on the 38, does anyone have a part #, I went to parts store and they could only have one .250 thick, the origonal is .500 thick. i can make it work, but would think a wider seal would have more seal surface.
outside dia. 2.000 inside dia. 1.250
whats your guys thoughs.....
|
|
Ken in Texas
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Henderson, TX
Points: 5919
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 6:17pm |
What you get for seals today are lip seals. The last 38 we restored got a stack of two thin seals on each side.
Do one side at a time. If I remember right you have to pull the bearing retainer to knock out the old seal and install the new. Replace the exact same shim stack. A thin coat of form-a- gasket between the shims, bearing retainer and the differential housing insures the lubricant stays inside and doesn't seep out around the retainer into the dry area where the brakes are . You may want to check the brake bands in the final drives now while you have it apart and replace them too if needed.
Parts are also available from vendors advertizing in this site.
|
|
RockyBottomFarm
Orange Level
Joined: 16 Oct 2011
Location: Fall Creek WI
Points: 253
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Oct 2011 at 7:20pm |
|
the seal i got is a National 471766
|
|
