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Osage_Orange 
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 Topic: WD45 Exhaust Leak
Posted: 23 Jun 2011 at 7:56am |
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Front port leaking between head and manifold. Need to keep using tractor for a few weeks. Has anyone had success with "stuffing" hi temp RTV in the leak as a temporary fix or does it just blow out?
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 23 Jun 2011 at 8:06am |
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I used refractory (furnace) cement as a temporary fix once. Worked for a while.
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Brian Jasper co. Ia
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Posted: 23 Jun 2011 at 8:53am |
High temp RTV will burn off in a matter of a few minutes.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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JayIN
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Posted: 23 Jun 2011 at 11:44am |
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Muffler Mender in a tube will last a little while. Comes in a toothpaste-like tube. Kind of like refractory cement. Wear rubber gloves- kinda hard to get off hands!
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sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 23 Jun 2011 at 1:38pm |
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If run with a leak very long, both the head and the manifold might need milled flat to make new gaskets hold. Ask me how I know.
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Osage_Orange
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Posted: 23 Jun 2011 at 2:16pm |
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Think I'll try the "muffler mender" first. CW, I was wondering about head/manifold damage........tks for sharing that.............O_O
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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JayIN
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Posted: 24 Jun 2011 at 6:51am |
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I guess you could also smear J-B weld around it, should last for a while.......
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sometimes I walk out to my shop and look around and think "Who's the idiot that owns this place?"
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Dans 7080
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Posted: 24 Jun 2011 at 9:52am |
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Jb weld will last about 5 minutes if that long. Its too much heat fot it and it will melt it back out. The muffler mender works good ive used it on several projects.
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Nathan (SD)
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Posted: 24 Jun 2011 at 10:05am |
My expierience with the lost gaskets usually means the manifold has wore away also. So you are gonna need to plane it anyway. I really wouldn't worry about a patch job. A couple more months aint gonna hurt the head unless of course you use it every day.
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Osage_Orange
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Posted: 24 Jun 2011 at 1:59pm |
I bought some gasket material. Gonna remove the manifold and make all new gaskets. Gee........If word gets around about me actually doing this the correct way, it could ruin my reputation. LOL. Thanks for all the replies and info.
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 24 Jun 2011 at 5:31pm |
Well..........if you're gonna take the manifold off anyway.........you can take it to a machine shop and have it milled flat!!
Or..........you gould do like I did.......use a big ol' flat b stard file and some elbow grease and true it up the hard way!!
In any event, if the manifold is eroded away, it would be best to get it all flat again.
And........if the head has erosion, you may want to use some real good refractory cement as well.
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Osage_Orange
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Posted: 24 Jun 2011 at 10:55pm |
Well, here it is. The exhaust ports are about 3/32" lower than the intakes. Guess, I'm gonna do like Brian, and use a file or angle head grinder to make them all the same level.
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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Osage_Orange
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Posted: 24 Jun 2011 at 10:58pm |
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Brian: Where can I get refractory cement? There are a few pits on the manifold that may as well be repaired. Is there a particular brand you recommend? tks.........O_O
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 25 Jun 2011 at 3:48pm |
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That erosion... if that's the way it is... isn't so bad. If I didn't have machine tools, I'd use a belt-sander and just sand it down 'till they're really close... that'll give you better results than an angle grinder... a 'flatter flatness'...
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Brian G. NY
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Posted: 25 Jun 2011 at 6:28pm |
O O, Nowadays,with all the wood stoves around, furnace cement can be bought about anywhere. One of the common brands is "Rutland". As someone else said, "muffler mend" cement in the tubes is basically the same thing.
The good thing about your manifold is there is plenty of "meat" left in the casting. Sometimes (especially with the original factory manifold, the front port runner will get very thin and portions of the manifold will have holes where it has rusted right through.
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GBACBFan
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Posted: 25 Jun 2011 at 7:50pm |
I'd do as Dave suggested. Work them down with a belt sander, and finish them off with a mill file. If you have one of these it would work pretty well.
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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they
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Onslowe in Mo
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Posted: 25 Jun 2011 at 8:14pm |
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Hard to beat what a decent machine shop could do. I had a couple of WD manifolds planed awhile back for $10.00 apiece. Got them all nice and flat. Sure glad I found that place!
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Osage_Orange
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Posted: 25 Jun 2011 at 10:48pm |
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The reason the intake ports are so far above the exhaust ports (in the pic) is because the steel rings and part of the intake gaskets were still on the manifold. So.......very little work with a large file made all of them even. Will fill in a few of the pits with refractory cement, apply new gaskets, and reassemble everything. Boy, do I feel STUPID! (but relieved, lol). Thanks for all the info and comments..............O_O
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Why is there never time to do it right the first time, but always time to go back and fix it?
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 26 Jun 2011 at 6:28am |
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O O, I always say it's better to be lucky than good! That surely makes the repair a LOT easier. :)
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 26 Jun 2011 at 8:52am |
 Osage_Orange wrote:
The reason the intake ports are so far above the exhaust ports (in the pic) is because the steel rings and part of the intake gaskets were still on the manifold. So.......very little work with a large file made all of them even. Will fill in a few of the pits with refractory cement, apply new gaskets, and reassemble everything. Boy, do I feel STUPID! (but relieved, lol). Thanks for all the info and comments..............O_O |
Nothing stupid about that. None of us caught it and I can see it now that you mentioned it. The picture looks like the left exhaust port drops off to the outside edge. That is where they start leaking and eroding. It won't hurt to check or file the side of the head too, looking close at the outside edges to be sure they don't drop off some.
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