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beeman 
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Joined: 02 Jan 2011
Location: Alabama
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 Topic: B trans seal change
Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 8:09pm |
My 49 B is leaking from the front seal on the transmission.. Can I split the tractor at the rear of the torque tube in front of the trans and replace seal or is it better to split at the bell housing end and then remove toque tube from transmission.? If I split at the front of the trans,will there be a problem getting drive shaft to line back up? Also ,what is the part # for the seal. Any tips would sure be appreciated.
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1949 B 3930 Ford- Have owned other Orange ,green,red,yellow,dark green tractors and equipment.
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Bee
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Joined: 14 Jun 2010
Location: NC
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Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 8:52pm |
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Bob, North Carolina
1949 B
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Bee
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Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 8:53pm |
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Bob, North Carolina
1949 B
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Bee
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Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 8:54pm |
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Bob, North Carolina
1949 B
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beeman
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Location: Alabama
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Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 9:05pm |
Bee, great pictures! So it looks like a double split is required to get that seal out. By double, I mean the usual engine /bell housing and then remove torque tube from front of transmission..... Well, I 'm tired of adding oil to the trans .. Thanks for the reply!
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1949 B 3930 Ford- Have owned other Orange ,green,red,yellow,dark green tractors and equipment.
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Bee
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Joined: 14 Jun 2010
Location: NC
Points: 201
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Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 9:08pm |
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Here is a rough overview of the procedure- You only need to split the tractor at the torque tube to transmission location to change the trans seal.
You will need to support the rear end under the drawbar and under the front of the transmission.
Look at your tractor and you will see the only thing keeping the engine from flopping over on its side are the bolts from the torque tube to the transmission. If you remove those bolts the engine will flip over and you will have a mess. So you need to secure the engine and torque tube in an upright position by means of straps off each side of the torque tube by the clutch housing or by fabricating an attachment which bolts to the rocker arm studs (see pic). The easiest is to drill holes in a section of angle iron and lift the engine with an engine hoist, then you can separate the torque tube from the transmission and walk it away.
Changing the seal is easy, unbolt the seal flange, knock it out and drive in the new one, then bolt it back up to the trans.
Bolting the torque tube back up was not that difficult, just some alignment
Be safe with this procedure. You should refer to the Maintenance manual for exact steps. Probably be easier with two people.
Will post a great resource link from Dick L.
Edited by Bee - 15 Jun 2011 at 5:28am
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Bob, North Carolina
1949 B
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Bee
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Location: NC
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Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 9:12pm |
No, you only need to split the torque tube from the trans to replace the seal at the front of the trans. I was changing the entire torque tube, hence the double split. Look through Dick L's site here to see how to do it with an engine puller- look under the engine rebuilding album I believe. http:////public.fotki.com/DickL/
Edited by Bee - 15 Jun 2011 at 5:30am
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Bob, North Carolina
1949 B
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beeman
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Location: Alabama
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Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 9:21pm |
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Thanks again! I pulled the engine years ago for a trip to the machine shop ,but didn't have to remove torque tube. I believe you saved me from a nasty surprise .......and I may as well check the throwout bearing and clutch too. Uh, where did that green paint come from??
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1949 B 3930 Ford- Have owned other Orange ,green,red,yellow,dark green tractors and equipment.
|
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Bee
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Location: NC
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Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 9:42pm |
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Green paint= auto body filler from some previous owner. Tube was eaten away by battery acid.
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Bob, North Carolina
1949 B
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beeman
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Location: Alabama
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Posted: 19 Jun 2011 at 10:42pm |
 Bee wrote:
Green paint= auto body filler from some previous owner. Tube was eaten away by battery acid.
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That would explain the rough surface on mine too. Thanks again.
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1949 B 3930 Ford- Have owned other Orange ,green,red,yellow,dark green tractors and equipment.
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