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junkman 
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Joined: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Nevada, MO
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 Topic: Adjusting a disk
Posted: 31 May 2011 at 10:49pm |
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Another post got me to thinking and I figured I would through out the question and see if someone had a answer. I know were there is a David Bradly rigid wheel disk which I believe is 12' maybe 13' that I could buy for 300 dollars but the thing is everyone that has used it says it throws ridges. My brother borrowed it a few years ago and he said he couldn't get it to adjust out. Has anyone ever used a David Bradly disk with pleasing results? It is a good disk and the price is even better but I would hate to fight ridges. Any help appreciated.
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SHAMELESS
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: EAST NE
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Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 3:23am |
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what do you mean..rigid wheel disk? tandem or straight disk? to prevent ridges, adjust the front gangs on a tandem, so it won't throw out as much and adjust the rear gangs to pull more back in...also if to much is coming back in, can strighten out the rear gangs some, also some have a smaller disk blade on each outside end to stop too much dirt going outwards to make the ridges. (hope this helps) a straight disk cranked tight in a "v" will really put out ridges, we always kept the old straight disk around, as we had bottom ground that stayed wet most of the time, we would just barely adjust it inwards to break the "wet seal" then we could disk it heavy the next day and plant!
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
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Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 6:08am |
Too much ground speed will cause a disc to ridge. MACK
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TexasAllis
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Texas
Points: 396
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Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 6:54am |
 junkman wrote:
Another post got me to thinking and I figured I would through out the question and see if someone had a answer. I know were there is a David Bradly rigid wheel disk which I believe is 12' maybe 13' that I could buy for 300 dollars but the thing is everyone that has used it says it throws ridges. My brother borrowed it a few years ago and he said he couldn't get it to adjust out. Has anyone ever used a David Bradly disk with pleasing results? It is a good disk and the price is even better but I would hate to fight ridges. Any help appreciated. |
Angle of the disks and speed are factors on any type of disk plow. On a mounted or semi mount tandem type disk you can adjust the depth differently front to back and smooth out ridges.
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junkman
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Joined: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Nevada, MO
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Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 8:37am |
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Shameless, what I was referring too was the fact that the David Bradly tandem disk is built very rigid. It has now way to do any flexing of any kind. I didn't know if this might play a part in it throwing ridges. I know different disks pull different ways and just wondered if anyone had any experience with this brand. I guess I need to go and borrow it and see how it works behind the D17 and maybe see if I can get it adjusted before I buy it.
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John (C-IL)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Illinois
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Posted: 01 Jun 2011 at 8:46am |
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Another adjustment that is often over looked is hitch height. The most important adjustment is speed, speed, speed. If you go too fast you will make ridges that will take years to correct. I am convinced that you cannot go too slow with a disc, 4 MPH is the best with my 20 foot IH495 behind the 7060. Any faster and no amount of harrow adjustment will level it out.
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Teddy (punchie)
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Joined: 14 Jan 2010
Location: Beaver PA
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Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 5:47am |
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Depth of cut, it has a balance of amount of pull, this plays on hitch. Angle, pitch I like them set to be straighter then to cut too heavy. If you have a ridge or say a higher place that the disk plowed dirt to. Off set you next pass, not always 1/2 pass. I find that it takes about 3 passes to smooth out the field nice. Biggest thing use the disks as a cutting tool and not a plow. There are places you can use the plowing of a disk, there are great tool if set right. Play around with them I think you'll maybe set them up to work. If too hard to set Depth, Angle, or Height of Hitch don't buy them. Yes there are some very good disks and some not as good.
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Ac D-19, a Number of WD's, One WD45, Two 444 balers, Ac plows and etc.
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Clay
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Udall, Kansas
Points: 10127
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Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 7:35am |
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Krause, Wilbeck and Miller seem to be the best disk in this area. Sunflower also makes a good disk.
I have a 12' and 20' Krause. They work great. The 20' is too much for a D-17 or 180.
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junkman
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Joined: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Nevada, MO
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Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 8:06am |
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Well thanks for the info guys. I called my neighbor about borrowing it to see how it would work and he told me it was 12 1/2 ft. and that he would take $150.00 for it. I told him consider it sold. All I see wrong with it was the fact it is missing one blade. For the price, I could deal with a few ridges. But like many have said and I and others never thought about, I will watch the speed. I always just pulled a disk. Faster the better.
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Rawleigh
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: White Stone, VA
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Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 10:41am |
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Agri-supply has a good selection of disc pans. Check their website.
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427435
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Joined: 18 Nov 2010
Location: SE Minnesota
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Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 11:06am |
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Besides getting the disk level while actually disking, there is usually a way to adjust the individual disk sections (4 of them) wider or narrower. If it's ridging at the speed you want to drive, the front sections should be adjusted in (if the center disks aren't already touching), and/or adjust the rear sections wider. The rear sections need to extend slightly beyond where the front sections "throw" the dirt to.
Sometimes the last outside disk on the rear sections is a smaller diameter to provide a really smooth, finished surface.
Edited by 427435 - 02 Jun 2011 at 11:15am
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Mark
B10 Allis, 917 Allis, 7116 Simplicity, 7790 Simplicity Diesel,
GTH-L Simplicity
Ignorance is curable-----stupidity is not.
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Gerald J.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Hamilton Co, IA
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Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 1:05pm |
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A disk going slowly isn't much of a weed killer. It needs 8 or 9 mph to toss weeds up in the air so their roots dry.
A bar, two, or three of spring tooth on the back of a disk does wonders for smoothing ridges and gulleys and for made a nice seedbed in two passes of the disk instead of the three required without the spring tooth. Pulling a spike tooth flexible harrow behind the disk wasn't nearly as effective.
Gerald J.
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Lonn
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: Назарово,Russia
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Posted: 02 Jun 2011 at 7:18pm |
I prefer a digger most of the time for upturning weeds. Much faster, leaves a nicer bed in most cases and doesn't compact the soil like a disk does. I use 2" spikes or what they used to call quackers or quack shovels. I do have a nice little 13 1/2' 200 series Allis disk for finish tilling sometimes. That disk does leave a pretty nice bed.
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