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Hand starting

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TaterHill View Drop Down
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Joined: 26 Feb 2011
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TaterHill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Hand starting
    Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 7:35am
I need some tips on starting my B with a hand crank.My flywheel is in need of replacement so I can't use the starter. Also does anyone know  where I can buy a new Flywheel. I have  phoned and e-mailed  OK Tractor and have not heard back from them.
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MNLonnie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 8:14am
Not sure what you need exactly but my experience is all tractors are a little different as far as choke setting, trial and error will tell you what to do. My 1934 WC you choke it and it will be 4-5 cranks, the other WC and M crawler are 1 crank on choke and then usually 1 crank off choke. Other than that put the crank in place so it engages the crank pulley and is at 9:00 position, give it a solid pull up to 12:00 with an open hand(don't grab it with your thumb rapped around it like a hammer). Your not trying to spin the motor just take thru 1 compression cycle. Hope this helps.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Denis in MI View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Denis in MI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 8:47am
yep quick quarter turns from about 9 - 12 is how I start them and safest way I have found, DO NOT spin the motor if you reach a high enough rpm the magneto will think the engine is running and the impulse will stop tripping and advance timing to running postion which could cause it to kick back.
1938 B, 1945 B, 1941 IB, 1949 C, 2 1938 WCs, 3 1950 WDs, 1951 WD, 2 1955 WD45, 1957 D-14
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pumpkin man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pumpkin man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 10:16am
 When my dad bought  our first  [ B] a 1939 in 52 he showed me how to crank it - dont spin it - hold your thumb back- give it  1/4 turns worked for 8 ys. Wham  july 1 1960 it got me the mag. had came louse[found it after 3week s in hospt.] broke my wrist in 3 places then 10 weeks in a cast . then one day reading the  [OWENERS MANUAL ] it tells you how CRANK START a B --stand to left side of tractor hold crank in left hand  give 1/4 turns. it works if it backs up on you crank pulls out of your fingers. hints on starting open throtle 2 or 3 notchs - be shure kill or eign. swtch is on - if it floods turn gas valve off  or start  with gas off . your post says you need a flywheel ? shure sounds like all you need  is a $ 35.00 ring gear
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Jacob (WI,ND) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jacob (WI,ND) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 10:40am
Here is a video of me starting my WD Wayne after getting him and going through the fuel system.  He should (and eventually will) start much better than this.  Shouldn't take this many cranks.  
I don't know if this is the best way to crank a tractor, but seems OK to me.  To me the 9 to 12 seems awkward, pulling up seems better to me, but maybe I'm not understanding things correctly.  Note I DO NOT have my thumb around the crank, but to the side.
Like others have said, don't try to spin the engine over, it won't do any good.
[TUBE]4rPkYRPFVPM[/TUBE]
Maybe because I'm right handed, cranking this way with my right hand feels more natural?  Cranking with the left hand just seems strange.  I'll have to try it that way next time I'm home...


Edited by Jacob (WI,ND) - 26 Feb 2011 at 10:46am
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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JohnCinMd View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JohnCinMd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 11:08am
Wow Jacob, after watching you try to crank that WD, I need a nap! ;-)
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ALinIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ALinIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 11:18am
Jacob - I agree that is the correct to handcrank.  Having said that, you need to give that WD a "Tune-up".  Your mag maybe weak, or you might have intake manifold leaks and your carb may need attention.  You should get it to fire on about 4-5 cranks.
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Jacob (WI,ND) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jacob (WI,ND) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 11:45am
Originally posted by ALinIL ALinIL wrote:

Jacob - I agree that is the correct to handcrank.  Having said that, you need to give that WD a "Tune-up".  Your mag maybe weak, or you might have intake manifold leaks and your carb may need attention.  You should get it to fire on about 4-5 cranks.
Oh, I KNOW it needed help, LOL!  This was when I just got it and basically just getting it to run after not running in some time (the fuel system was all gummed up).  The carb did (and still does) need some TLC.  I only cleaned it, not rebuilt it at this vid.  And the manifold seals were shot.  They have since been fixed and are waiting for warm weather to button things up again. (had the head off for a freshed up, but not a complete re machine)
I believe the mag is fine, seems to have a nice strong spark.
It WILL start better once I'm done, otherwise I'll tear it apart and fix some more tings until it does, LOL!
Thanks for the advice though.
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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Don(MI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 11:46am

Haven't had her kick back yet, I will try the left side thing next time though.

I don't know why, but I can't get the dang youtube video to embed in the post. Whats the trick?
 
 
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Darrell, Jr. (MN) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Darrell, Jr. (MN) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 11:59am
Everyone has given you good advice, but no one has asked if you have a distributor or a magneto?  All the starting instructions given are for a mag set up, and if you have a dist. you will need to be very careful because they will kickback almost every time.
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 12:01pm
Don, copy the URL from youtube then click on the "insert movie " icon. Paste the URL[TUBE]xDbOfZmoaqw[/TUBE] in the youtube box and post it.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Don(MI) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 12:06pm
Originally posted by CTuckerNWIL CTuckerNWIL wrote:

Don, copy the URL from youtube then click on the "insert movie " icon. Paste the URL in the youtube box and post it.
Thanks!
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SteveC(NS) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveC(NS) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 2:07pm
Taterhill, did you pick up on Pumpkin man's advice that it may just be a $35.00 ring gear? I've got even more hope for ya. My $35 ring gear is still on the shelf because I swaped starters with my CA and it engaged nearly every time. I took the B starter to a local garage that specializes in gen., alt. & starters to see if they could order  me a bendix, they said they could and offered to install it on my starter. The price was good and now the ring gear will wait til I do a full o'haul on the B.
I don't hand crank NOTHIN' , I'm too old and like my wrist just the way it is.☺
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Steve M C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve M C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Feb 2011 at 9:25pm

Back'n the day.....when I used my UC,after it was warmed up good from running,you could just slowly lift from 9 o'clock and when the impulse clicked...it was running.Dad talked about starting model T's buy having the engine stopped in the "right" spot and then pulling the spark advance lever to fire the mag.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote farmer0_1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2011 at 12:54am
had a good friend give me the steps to start my ac allcrop engine.  turn on gas for fifteen seconds then turn back off at the tank.  set choke to choke.  pull crank like described speed is not much issue.  turn choke off after two cranks .  then pull to start , when it starts turn fuel back on.  usually will start third pull since i went thru the mag. , carb, fuel tank, plugs wired and cap. and fresh fuel.  wish is had a button.
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swit View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote swit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2011 at 5:46am
my B full choke most of the time 1to3 turns and its a running the only reason i rebuild my starter is i had shoulder surgery and i new snow would be here before i was ready to be cranking on it
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Fred in Pa View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fred in Pa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2011 at 8:21am
I can tell alot of people would have trouble cranking a old big block .LOL
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Alberta Phil View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alberta Phil Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Feb 2011 at 11:03am
Most of my old iron is hand crank and most will usually fire off after a 1/4 pull (9 to 12) with choke on and a second pull over with choke off. Even the big blocks, Fred!! Proper timing and tuning is the key.
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