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CA 3-Point Sickle Recommendations? |
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dfwallis
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Joined: 09 Mar 2023 Location: DFW Points: 919 |
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Topic: CA 3-Point Sickle Recommendations?Posted: 26 Feb 2026 at 7:52pm |
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Considering a sickle mower for road and ditch trimming. Prefer 6 or 7 foot. No experience, what's a good RELIABLE recommendation, esp brand wise? Not a situation of wanting a native or fixer upper unit at this time.
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1952 CA13092
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 90450 |
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Posted: 26 Feb 2026 at 8:30pm |
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no brand, just a comment.. I have an old 1940 Allis sickle mounted on a B tractor.. Works OK... but it would be nice if you could angle the bar and cut on slopes and hill sides... The old pitman arm type you can only tilt a few degrees from horizontal... Some models are belt drive out the the bar/ cam shaft area.. Those you can tilt quite a bit ... Something to keep in mind..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Tracy Martin TN
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10920 |
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Posted: 26 Feb 2026 at 10:58pm |
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Buy an AC 82T trailer type is best bet. Easy on and of. Cut in almost any position. Use one around our pond. Works Great! Tracy
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No greater gift than healthy grandkids!
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Gary Burnett
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3188 |
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Posted: 27 Feb 2026 at 6:24am |
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As far as 3pt hitch mowers New Holland 451 and John Deere 350 are two of the best
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DanielW
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Joined: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Ontario Points: 302 |
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Posted: 27 Feb 2026 at 9:08am |
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Someone posted a similar question on another forum I follow. For what it counts, here was my response:
We use sickle mowers for all the hay at our Northern farm
because it's so rocky the nimbleness of a sickle mower is handy. And because
it's mainly grass we don't need conditioning like you do for legumes. We own
six, and have owned many more over the years - both pitman and wobble types.
For what you're describing, you probably can't go too wrong with either type.
Condition would be more important. If a pitman type, make sure the jaws and
knife ball aren't too worn and you set the register. If a wobble mechanism,
make sure there's minimal backlash. |
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dfwallis
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Joined: 09 Mar 2023 Location: DFW Points: 919 |
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Posted: 27 Feb 2026 at 11:01am |
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We have 2 brush hogs and a finish mower. Immediate need is to clean up some roadside ditches and areas that are slightly hard to get to. Long term, I'd like it to be useful for haying, but I may never get to that point (just thinking ahead). I see online I can get a cheap brand new Chinese one for one half what most used one's are selling for :( But I'm afraid of them.
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1952 CA13092
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Matt Tallant
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Joined: 15 Aug 2011 Location: Virginia Points: 706 |
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Posted: 27 Feb 2026 at 6:10pm |
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I have a A-C #3 rear mower on a CA if interested
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dfwallis
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Joined: 09 Mar 2023 Location: DFW Points: 919 |
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Posted: 27 Feb 2026 at 8:22pm |
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I'm at the charity of my brother to go pick stuff up so I'm trying to keep purchases pretty close to Jackson County Indiana. I looked at some videos and it looked like the #3 attached easily to the curved B drawbar. I didn't see one attached to a CA. Since I've adapted the CA drawbar to host a 3point, I was intending that all (or most) future implements would be 3point. I'm intending to renovate all of the implements that I have which are native to the CA (plow, cultivator, planter, disc), but it should be a fairly infrequent conversion back to pin-hitch configuration to use them (no conversion needed for the disc). I made the conversion fairly easy, but still not completely un-annoying. The tractor originally had more implements but they got away over the years :(
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1952 CA13092
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Trinity45
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Joined: 17 Mar 2014 Location: Kentucky Points: 2134 |
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Posted: 28 Feb 2026 at 8:47am |
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Is your CA snap or pin hitch, a number 3 mounts easily to a pin hitch CA but may have to make a mounting bracket for a snap couple, I just bought a #3 for my snap coupler.
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dfwallis
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Joined: 09 Mar 2023 Location: DFW Points: 919 |
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Posted: 28 Feb 2026 at 12:10pm |
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It's a pin hitch but has been modified to 3 point. I'm going to stick with new implements being 3 point for the foreseeable future. I've got too many old implements that are in dire shape to work on. Until I get those working, I'm going to be hesitant to take on older implements. That was kind of the point of creating the custom (more robust than the cross manufacturing kludge contraption) 3 point.
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Joined: 09 Mar 2023 Location: DFW Points: 919 |
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Posted: 07 Mar 2026 at 2:52pm |
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A MF #41 may come available soon, but after my next trip ends. I hope it doesn't sell before my April trip. He said that's unlikely.
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Joined: 09 Mar 2023 Location: DFW Points: 919 |
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Posted: 1 hour 22 minutes ago at 12:16pm |
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I notice a lot of sickle mowing with grass bunching/clogging where people have to stop the tractor and unclog the bar. Has anyone ever experimented with a smooth flat guard across the bar to see if that reduced clogging?
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1952 CA13092
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DanielW
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Joined: 19 Sep 2022 Location: Ontario Points: 302 |
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Posted: 1 hour 5 minutes ago at 12:33pm |
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Do you mean across the top of the bar behind the guards/knives? The earliest IH mowers (and the horse-drawn McCormick mowers) had the plow bolts that hold the guards on poke down from the top, rather than up from the bottom like later mowers do. It meant the bar was countersunk for the plow-bolt head to sit flush on top. It left the bar behind the knife perfectly smooth. And it may have made a little difference in plugging in short crops. But I never noticed the difference enough to worry about. I prefer the more modern setup with the guards being countersunk and the nuts at the top. On the old bars with the nuts at the bottom, the nuts/bolts poking through would get worn down and rounded off from rubbing over the ground, and sometimes could work loose. You'd want to be checking them after every 5-10 hours of cutting. And the nuts were always so worn/rounded after a few days of cutting that you could never use a wrench/socket on them. It was either vice-grips or chiseling them off.
I do notice that the newer adjustable guards with the jack bolts can cause hang-ups with the jack bolt poking up so far above the bar. A lot (probably the majority) of folks with plugging issues don't have them set up nor run them correctly. It takes a lot to keep a sickle mower set up and maintained to cut well. Setting the register is the most often overlooked aspect: if it's out-of-register, it won't cut worth a dang and be constantly plugging and causing headaches. You'll have to crawl along at 2 MPH to cut at all, and even then it'll plug often. Setting the lead of the bar, making sure the ledgers have square edges and are level, keepig the hold-downs tight, and keeping the sections tight and sharp are also critical. On pitman mowers with the ball/socket connection, you need to make sure that ball & socket is tight with not slop/backlash. Even a small bit of slop/backlash reduces your effective stroke enough that it'll cut a lot worse. It bugs the heck out of me when I see so many YouTube videos of folks claiming to show how to set up and run a sickle mower correctly. Then it shows them cutting and they're ooching along at a crawl in first or second gear in good standing crops, and still sometimes plugging. With a properly setup mower, you can boogey along at 6-8MPH (at least) and really fly. We still cut all the hay at our Northern farm with a 9' Deere 350 mower on a JD 2120 in sixth gear high - which according to the JD speed sheet with its 38" rear tires is something like 9.2 MPH. If it's good standing hay, I can knock it down a lot faster than I can with a haybine. If the crop is sufficiently tall, speed helps to positively pull the crop off the bar and make sure it doesn't get caught on the guard nuts or jacking bolts. The only time I can see the smooth bar of the old IH mowers being a real benefit is if you're crawling along in short crops. Mind you, that's in a good standing, thick, dry crop with decent stems. If you have down/lodged/tangled/damp/thin/wiry crops, cutting with a sickle mower can be a nightmare no matter what you do.
Edited by DanielW - 1 hour 2 minutes ago at 12:36pm |
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