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670T front crank seal |
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Northern Hoser
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020 Location: Canada Points: 129 |
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Topic: 670T front crank sealPosted: 6 hours 31 minutes ago at 1:47pm |
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Hi all,
Rebuild of my 8030 went pretty well, all except the front seal (74036340) developed a leak within the first hours and were going to have to go back in. Is there anything unique about this seal? pics I'm seeing kind of look different than what I'd expect; also seeing what look like a simple rubber seal or one with felt in it. Depends on the manufacturer. Which one would be the best to put back in there? Pretty sure it was an AGCO supplied seal, or one from the kit which was a Reliance Kit Shop that did the rebuild is going to pull and replace the seal just wondering if there's any tips or tricks with it maybe I could pass on. It could also be a leak really close to the seal area we'll have to rule out first, but oil is coming out behind the balancer somewhere. Thanks, Matt
Edited by Northern Hoser - 6 hours 28 minutes ago at 1:50pm |
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22533 |
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Posted: 2 hours 36 minutes ago at 5:42pm |
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Your seal installer must match the O.D. 0f the seal and can't be too thick. Always use some light oil on the inside of the seal and on the nose of the crank. Seal must be pulled/pushed in until it hits the stop wall machined in the timing cover.
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HudCo
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Joined: 29 Jan 2013 Location: Plymouth Utah Points: 4036 |
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Posted: 1 hour 59 minutes ago at 6:19pm |
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best to have a install tool to push those crankshft seals in instead of driving in with a seal driver , with a sael driver i allways worrey about messing up the spring inside the lip of the seal just my opinion . even if i have to take time to make one
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8070nc
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Joined: 21 Mar 2019 Location: North Carolina Points: 701 |
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Posted: 1 hour 36 minutes ago at 6:42pm |
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Maybe im wrong but i remmember rebuilding a 7040 that it was a seal that the part on the crank turned with the crank and it sealed inside itself. Hard to explain but i remember it being more robust than a regular seal
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1984 80780
1957 D14 DES 300 with 25000 engine 616 tractor |
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Northern Hoser
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020 Location: Canada Points: 129 |
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Posted: 1 hour 33 minutes ago at 6:45pm |
Ah that explains the look of the one I'm seeing, I've seen wheel seals like that before. |
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Northern Hoser
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Joined: 19 Feb 2020 Location: Canada Points: 129 |
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Posted: 1 hour 31 minutes ago at 6:47pm |
Much appreciated! |
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8812 |
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Posted: 1 hour 27 minutes ago at 6:51pm |
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8070 is correct at least on 8000 series...the inner part slides on crank and turns inside outer part much like a wheel seal on a semi. When doing on assembled engine should have a spacer of sorts that fits seal and push seal on/in with a plate and bolt threaded into nose. An all thread and nut works well. Doing this by hand you can tell when you hit bottom.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 1 hour 26 minutes ago at 6:52pm |
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8812 |
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Posted: 1 hour 21 minutes ago at 6:57pm |
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Make sure the pan gasket is not the leak.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22533 |
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Posted: 57 minutes ago at 7:21pm |
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That style of seal is often referred to as a "unitized" seal or a "cartridge type" seal.
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