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D Series Frame Weights?

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Clayfoot View Drop Down
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Joined: 23 Sep 2024
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    Posted: 07 Jan 2026 at 5:25pm
Anyone ever make any frame weights for the D Series tractors? I'm planning on making some concrete ones in the spring, possibly with an embedded toolbox on one side, but I'm looking for inspiration. Pictures are most welcome!
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cwhit View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cwhit Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2026 at 6:43pm
We ve had a couple sets on 17s. Don’t know if they were factory or Rowe foundry. They would also fit on the WD45. Could send a pic on my phone ( not here) if no one else responds.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 2026 at 9:39pm
Allis front wheel rim weights were 93 lbs each per front wheel. Factory Allis front end weights were 75 lbs each times 4 for 300 lbs.   Rear wheel weights were 4 pieces at 75 lbs each for a total of 600 lbs for both rear wheels.  Anything you build to hang on the side frames can limit your visibility if you get them too wide. Be mindful of more height is better than width.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clayfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Yesterday at 9:08am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

Allis front wheel rim weights were 93 lbs each per front wheel. Factory Allis front end weights were 75 lbs each times 4 for 300 lbs.   Rear wheel weights were 4 pieces at 75 lbs each for a total of 600 lbs for both rear wheels.  Anything you build to hang on the side frames can limit your visibility if you get them too wide. Be mindful of more height is better than width.


My plan is to essentially copy the B/C frame weights. I'm looking to counter some of my heftier implements, specifically the mechanical transplanter. Just another measure I'd like to take to make it easier on the wife when she's operating the tractor and I'm on the transplanter. Since I work in some tight spaces, and have limited storage space, I'm trying to avoid anything that extends the front end beyond the front tires.

Edited by Clayfoot - Yesterday at 9:09am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 hours 27 minutes ago at 9:02pm
Dads series II D15 has the factory front wheel weights as Dr Allis mentioned, worked well to keep the front end down while pulling a 3 pt Oliver plow. Hard to come by but they work well. What about some flat front weights off a 190? Not sure the bolt holes would line up on the frame rail, but they are flat.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clayfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 hours 20 minutes ago at 9:09pm
Weights are hard to come by here, and they're almost always overpriced. For wheel weights, it would be better for me to cast some reinforced concrete wheel weights. There's a chance I may do both that and the frame weights.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC720Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 hours 57 minutes ago at 9:32pm
How do concrete weights compare to cast weights in poundage? I have no idea? Yeah, weights can be expensive, normally a $1/IB here, and yes they can be expensive. I am curious to see how they turn out for you, keep us posted.
1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Clayfoot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 42 minutes ago at 8:47am
Concrete isn't as dense, so not as heavy by volume, but much cheaper. I haven't been able to really find any weights that were $1/lb within 2 hours driving distance. I plan to suspend some steel mesh in the weights when I get the opportunity to pour them. The tractor did come to me with inner rear concrete weights poured a couple years after the tractor rolled off the line, '57 serial number, '59 noted on the weights with what looks like we're toothpicks pressed into the wet concrete.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DanWi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 4 hours 20 minutes ago at 9:09am
When I needed a little more weight for the back of the skid steer I went to my local stell yard and got some flat stock that was 2inches x 8 inches. I cut it in 2ft lengths with a band saw and was able to drill mounting holes with the drill press. Painted them to match the machine. You could gets stuff that is thinner or thicker and wider or narrower to bolt on your side rails.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Calvin Schmidt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 3 hours 49 minutes ago at 9:40am
FYI, Concrete is approx 160 lbs per cu.ft. Steel is approx 450 lbs per cu.ft.
Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MadCow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 minutes ago at 1:06pm
Liquid ballast in the front tires? Not sure how much that would really add, but it's cheap and gives you 50lbs per tire. Worst case you need less weights hanging off the sides. 

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