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190 xt cam problem |
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190xt MN
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Joined: 15 Sep 2019 Location: Minnesota Points: 78 |
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Topic: 190 xt cam problemPosted: 15 Dec 2025 at 1:44pm |
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Hello I am overhauling my 190 xt and was wondering if anyone else had this problem. I had the block, head and crank sent into the machine shop, the cam was also sent along with everything else. I had them install new cam bushings, and we determined that the cam and lifters had enough wear they should be replaced. I ordered a cam and lifters from Abilene Machine. When I went to install the cam it would go in, but with some effort. I thought since maybe it was 50 degrees in the shop and I was using Lucas assembly lube maybe it was just some resistance from that. I went in a few journals and it was the same to try and push through. I pulled the cam out and went to town and picked up a 2 to 3 in micrometer which I didn’t have before. 3 of the cam journals measure 2.1314in and one measures 2.1308in. According to my book the max OD for a journal is 2.1310. The bearing ID measured 2.1331 and that only leaves me .0017 for oil clearance on 3 of them and .0023 clearance for the other which is in spec. What is the best course of action here. Do I send the cam to the machine shop and have them grind the 3 larger journals to match the smaller one? I’m just worried .0017 is a little too tight. Thanks in advance for any replies.
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 5191 |
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Posted: 15 Dec 2025 at 2:17pm |
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I've never worked on a 190 engine, however many years ago I encountered the same issue on a Dodge 440 for my modified pulling tractor. Took it back to the machine shop and the HIGHLY SKILLED owner used a bearing knife to trim the bearings ever so slightly. Like so many other things in today's world, can you find someone that can do this?
Might be easier to set the cam in a lathe and polish the oversize journals.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22307 |
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Posted: 15 Dec 2025 at 2:33pm |
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If it was mine........WD40 or comparable is the lube. Keep turning the cam in and out using this to gently wear in. I would finish with an electric drill still spraying WD40 in the oil holes and in/out on the cam. Make sure the rear cam bearing is installed/clocked correctly. I hope you have the 7/16" hex head bolt on the nose of the camshaft. *** Remember, these cam bearings are NOT pressure lubed !! They get a dribble of oil from the rocker arms making its way in by gravity on the way back to the crankcase, so they've got to have some room for oil to easily get into them.
Edited by DrAllis - 15 Dec 2025 at 3:20pm |
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190xt MN
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Joined: 15 Sep 2019 Location: Minnesota Points: 78 |
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Posted: 15 Dec 2025 at 3:42pm |
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Unfortunately I don’t have that cam. Mine was just the half moon key and it presses on. Thanks for the advice I’m going to give that a try. I was just a little nervous with the oil clearence that tight. Might still be able to rig something up with a drill.
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22307 |
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Posted: 15 Dec 2025 at 3:44pm |
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Technically, the new cam isn't made quite right. So, you have a legit beef with Abilene Machine. I just know how it is trying to stay on a schedule to get things done.
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Sids
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Joined: 16 Feb 2025 Location: belleville, ks Points: 12 |
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Posted: 19 hours 43 minutes ago at 7:40pm |
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If it were me I would get a camshaft with the bolt In the nose. The original camshaft with only the pressed on gear is prone to break off. That cam is OK in a combine engine without driving a hydraulic pump. But in a tractor they can break. Also there are hard and soft gears. They were not to be mixed. I would have to dig back for a service bulletin for the part numbers. Just my thought.
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orangereborn
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: NW WI Points: 1517 |
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Posted: 2 hours 19 minutes ago at 1:04pm |
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If I remember correctly the engine ser# break was 2D 66200.. I have several 30l's and tried to get an idea which tractor Ser# was b4 or after the break..I think the 180/190 cams were different than the 7000?? I have not seen the bulletin. Looking to see where I saved that info...Dale
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tbran
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Paris Tn Points: 3546 |
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Posted: 1 hour 22 minutes ago at 2:01pm |
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74022519 was the hard gear set cam # from 180-7020 F-L3.
Send the cam back and get a good one. As stated these are non pressure lubed and need some clearance - unless the front brg is egg shaped over .003 we never change them - never had a failure. Makes one wonder if these will last 5-6000 hours with out pressure lube.... why do all others have pressure lube?
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When told "it's not the money,it's the principle", remember, it's always the money..
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22307 |
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Posted: 45 minutes ago at 2:38pm |
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As far as the "soft" and "hard" gears thing, here is how I was raised since 1975, by a couple of guys who were my Mentors. When changing the (broken nose) camshaft with new, always update to the one from a 200-7000 etc with the long bolt in the end. This requires changing the camshaft gear, which is HARD. The 4 inch long bolt prevents the camshaft nose from breaking, especially in a tractor application where the hydraulics may be used a bunch (loader). We NEVER changed any of the other gears even if they were soft. We never had a problem. This has been since 1975. Farm equipment just doesn't generally run 20K hrs of service life like construction equipment does. Many never get to 10K and this tractor already has how many hrs on it ?? So, my view is don't worry about the hard/soft thing because I've never seen a problem in 50 years mixing them.
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