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bulletpruf 
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Joined: 27 Oct 2025
Location: San Antonio, Te
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 Topic: HD11E Dozer Questions
Posted: 27 Oct 2025 at 8:27pm |
So, I'm interested in an early 1970's AC HD 11E dozer for use on a ranch. More than anything else, I'm curious about parts availability. Anyone know if you can still get most parts new for these? Undercarriage and such? It's about the right size for me, but if it's going to be looking for a needle in a haystack every time it needs something I probably need to look elsewhere.
Thanks
Scott
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Les Kerf
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Joined: 08 May 2020
Location: Idaho
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Posted: 28 Oct 2025 at 12:11pm |
What I know about an HD11 would fit on the head of a pin, but I am getting to be quite familiar with an HD5G, and what I have gleaned from this site is that parts for virtually ALL of the Allis-Chalmers crawlers are scarce and getting even more scarce.
Undercarriage parts are no longer manufactured so the only stuff available is from the used market, and engine parts are reputed to be extremely hard to find.
Best wishes in your endeavors 
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bulletpruf
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Posted: 28 Oct 2025 at 4:21pm |
Here are a few pics.
  Here are a few pics.
Edited by bulletpruf - 28 Oct 2025 at 4:22pm
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 28 Oct 2025 at 8:37pm |
I love it! Better take a real close look at those tracks  The near side is almighty loose 
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bulletpruf
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Posted: 28 Oct 2025 at 8:44pm |
 Les Kerf wrote:
I love it! Better take a real close look at those tracks The near side is almighty loose |
Yeah, the undercarriage doesn't look great to me, either. I'll definitely spend some time checking it out when I go see the machine this weekend.
Scott
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DMiller
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Hermann, Mo
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Posted: 29 Oct 2025 at 1:00am |
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These are dry pin rails, they will wear to a point internally where will snake terribly and roll off readily. Can appear in great shape externally and be junk. 7.0” pitch where no other manufacturer save IHC used. No one stocks parts for these US, getting from overseas is beyond expensive if can even locate there.
These are 40-50 year old machines, in most respects there are no new and dribbling to nothing used parts remaining to keep them viable.
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gemdozer
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Posted: 29 Oct 2025 at 7:54am |
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I dismantled 2 HD11 E some time and am still have some used part but no more track
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bulletpruf
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Posted: 29 Oct 2025 at 3:08pm |
DMiller wrote:
These are dry pin rails, they will wear to a point internally where will snake terribly and roll off readily. Can appear in great shape externally and be junk. 7.0” pitch where no other manufacturer save IHC used. No one stocks parts for these US, getting from overseas is beyond expensive if can even locate there.
These are 40-50 year old machines, in most respects there are no new and dribbling to nothing used parts remaining to keep them viable. |
It looks like there's a fix that involves converting to Cat D5 undercarriage, but not sure if the parts are available to convert, and you have the expense of sourcing all the D5 bits.
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bulletpruf
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Posted: Yesterday at 12:18pm |
Ok, now for some details on the attempted rescue. Picked up my buddy Will at 7:30 am and we headed to Victoria, TX. It's a 2.5 hour drive. Arrived and noticed that we didn't need a chainsaw and a weedeater to be able to get to the dozer; they had cleaned up the area around the machine several weeks ago. Too bad they didn't kill all of the wasps; we must have killed about 50 and went through 3 cans of wasp spray, which is a new record for me.
Anyway, after taking a look at the dozer, it didn't take long to see that this was more of a parts machine than anything else. It's complete, but the undercarriage is in pretty bad shape -- the sprocket teeth have a knife edge and most of the teeth are chipped, too. The track chain didn't look great, although the pins and bushings didn't look to be in terrible shape. The worst part was the track adjusting yokes that move the idler gear - the rods were severely pitted, to the point where they had to substantially weaker than they should be.
Most of the control levers were seized up. I managed to get the steering clutch levers freed, the transmission (6 speed manual) shifted ok, and the main clutch worked, but lever to control the blade never freed up, the high-low shifter appears to be stuck, the winch controls are seized up, and I had to undo the throttle linkage because it was seized.
Engine was low on oil (barely reading on the dipstick) and I couldn't see any coolant at all in the radiator.
Hydraulic cylinder rods for the blade were gouged and rusted, too.
Batteries were dated 2001, so I'm thinking the machine has been sitting for about 20 years.
Electrical problems started with the batteries and battery cables. We charged the two 12V batteries in the dozer (they were dated 2001 and hooked up for 24V) and they would each read about 12.5 volts after charging, but we only got about 3 - 4 volts at the starter so we had some battery cable/connection issues. The push button starter wasn't working either, so I hooked the 24V jump pack positive clamp to the lug on the starter solenoid where the hot cable came in from the battery, and grounded the jump pack negative clamp to the starter ground. Then I used a screwdriver to jump to the other large lug on the solenoid and just got the whirrrrr noise from a starter that was spinning but not engaging.
The starter solenoid is on top of the starter and reasonably easy to get to. I tried to disassemble on-site but unable to remove the solenoid from the starter because there was a nut holding the starter solenoid actuating rod (not sure if this is the "official" term) in place and the actuating rod spun when you turned the nut.
The starter solenoid actuating rod has to pull in, towards the front of the starter, in order to push the starter pinion to the rear to engage the flywheel. The actuating rod was spring loaded and I was able to push the actuating rod in, towards the front of the starter, with a pry bar. When I did that, the starter pinion moved to the rear and into the flywheel teeth. However, we were able to watch the starter solenoid actuating rod when I jumped the two starter solenoid lugs with a screwdriver and the actuating rod didn't move in or out. If I had been able to get the starter solenoid off, I think there's a decent chance that I could have disassembled it and at least figured out why it wasn't cooperating.
There was an inspection cover not far from the starter that I was able to remove to view the flywheel. The teeth on the flywheel weren't perfect, but they weren't chewed up, so the issue wasn't a bad spot on the flywheel, at least not that I could see. I turned the engine over using the pry bar on the flywheel, so I was able to actuate the starter on different spots of the flywheel with no change.
Debating on whether or not I want to go out there with a new starter, to the tune of $450. I won't end up buying it, but if I get a few videos out of getting it running again, I'll make the $ back eventually off YouTube.
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ecosse23
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Joined: 12 Mar 2024
Location: Scotland
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Posted: 4 hours 51 minutes ago at 8:07am |
Thanks for the update. Sounds like you might have to soak the controls in WD-40, leave the machine for a few days, then come back and see if they've freed up a bit. Plus figure out a way to remove the captive nut from the starter solenoid, if that's what the issue is.
Incidentally, your images aren't showing for me.
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bulletpruf
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Posted: 4 hours 44 minutes ago at 8:14am |
ecosse23 wrote:
Thanks for the update. Sounds like you might have to soak the controls in WD-40, leave the machine for a few days, then come back and see if they've freed up a bit. Plus figure out a way to remove the captive nut from the starter solenoid, if that's what the issue is.
Incidentally, your images aren't showing for me.
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Yeah, I'm using an image hosting site because my pics are too large to attach. I'll see if I can try a work around.
I plan to head back on Friday with a new starter, but I don't think I'll need it. I was jumping the starter off the two large lugs; the S terminal was hidden under a battery cable. By bypassing the solenoid, I wasn't actuating the rod that pushes the pinion into the flywheel gear. Figured that out after I got home.
Thanks
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