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New-to-me Wd45 low rpm |
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OldManLarry ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2025 Location: Nebraska Points: 11 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 04 Oct 2025 at 11:11am |
Good morning gentlemen.
I’ve had a friends WD45 sitting about the farm for a bit. I’d like to put it to work. Starts generally well. New carb, supposedly rebuilt engine. It fails to maintain rpm while running. Bogs under load from 4’ brush hog in medium grass. I adjusted the carb/governor arm linkage by bending. It was 3/16” off. While tractor is off, linkage sits just into the gov arm hole with carb at max input. Gov arm on hand throttle/gov body side sits fully engaged at max rpm. After starting, gov arm reduces rpm at carb, hand throttle does not increase rpm. Can someone post pictures of the throttle side spring linkage, and the carb-side spring linkage? I believe they’re incorrectly installed. Hand throttle is fully engaged about 3/4 of the way down, but gov arm on gov side is fully engaged for max throttle. Do you gentleman know what may be the culprit here? Thank you |
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OldManLarry ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2025 Location: Nebraska Points: 11 |
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After shutting down tractor, carb and gov arm return to max throttle position.
There’s a large dent, watermelon could sit down in it, in the underside of the oil pan. I see oil lines running to the governor. Maybe there’s a correlation there? Thank you sirs, I really appreciate your time and knowledge Edited by OldManLarry - 04 Oct 2025 at 11:45am |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22049 |
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Start with this: There CANNOT be ANY SPRING (on the carb side) connected to the governor arm, governor link rod or the carburetors throttle shaft. There SHOULD BE a spring connected to the CHOKE lever that goes to the engine's block drain cock. That is correct. Any spring connected to the governor/carb control on a WD-45 is WRONG. Until this is verified and/or corrected, everything else you do won't be right.
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OldManLarry ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2025 Location: Nebraska Points: 11 |
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DrAllis, thank you. I’ll get that spring in the correct spot. It’s currently just dangling from the gov-carb linkage arm. I’ll check back in after
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OldManLarry ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2025 Location: Nebraska Points: 11 |
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Choke plate spring is now connected, holding the choke closed except when choke is pulled. Thank you DrAllis.
The gov. Arm on the carb side still seems to me like it is restricting the rpm’s. Any other ideas? Thank you |
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OldManLarry ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2025 Location: Nebraska Points: 11 |
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With the hand throttle at the highest rpm setting, should the govenor arm/linkage at the carb be fully engaged against the carb pin?
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OldManLarry ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2025 Location: Nebraska Points: 11 |
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Choke spring is in correct location. The problem persists. Low rpm while working, bogging, occasionally dying. Carb is new, screws adjusted per recommendations. Could a worn governor spring be the culprit? Thank you gentlemen
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WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 5041 |
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Do you have adequate fuel flow to the carburetor?
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OldManLarry ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2025 Location: Nebraska Points: 11 |
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I believe so. Good flow from the line, good flow from the carb drain valve as well
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OldManLarry ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2025 Location: Nebraska Points: 11 |
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Points look good. Light gassy smell when it dies. No smoke from exhaust
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WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 5041 |
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Just to eliminate fuel flow being your problem, disconnect the gas line from the carburetor and let it run into a container for a minute or more. Check to see if flow diminishes as time goes by.
It's very common for the inlet of the sediment bowl to partially plug with rust and debris from the tank. It may not be your problem, but it's possible.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22049 |
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With the hand throttle wide open, the governor/carb linkage SHOULD NOT be against the stop pin on the carburetor. That would be akin to you holding your accelerator pedal on your car to the floor while standing still. It will blow up !!! This is what a governor does....keeps the RPM within a certain range and opens or closes the throttle as needed depending on the load the engine is being subjected to. Governor springs never "wear" out. They can break and when they do you have no hand throttle action whatsoever. When was the last time this tractor did run right ?? Or is the new carburetor an effort to get it running after many years of sitting around ?? Do two things. #1. remove the air cleaner hose that connects to the carburetor and let it breathe fresh air (for testing). #2. I don't care how you've got the carburetor adjusted. Do it my way. Open the "L" shaped main jet 3 full turns (for testing) and see if these two things have any bearing on performance. Lastly, I assume there was a time in the past where it did run fine. So, with that in mind keep your hands OFF the distributor and changing the timing. It was fine. It still is fine. It cannot change itself.
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OldManLarry ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2025 Location: Nebraska Points: 11 |
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WF Owner-
I’ll double check fuel flow. It’d been sitting a bit. It had some debris in the tank. I drained it and filled and sloshed and rinsed it repeatedly until a filter stayed clean and I had good flow throughout a few clean gallons, maybe 10 minutes? I cleaned the fuel lines with carburetor cleaner and air, away from the carb. Got it to run better. I dismantled the old carb, found the floats bent, cracked and catching. Never rebuilt a carb, so I figured erring on the side of caution bought a replacement from Steiner. I hadn’t thought to readdress fuel, but I will now, thank you |
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OldManLarry ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 04 Sep 2025 Location: Nebraska Points: 11 |
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Dr Allis-
I appreciate the insight on the system. I’ve been working to educate myself. Sitting, full throttle should produce 540-600ish rpm at the pto. Same under load, but the governor should be increasing fuel volume if my understanding is correct? Brush hog seems pretty slow, I don’t have a way to time it. It last ran well “before the flood”, about 8 years ago. Supposedly had an engine rebuild in the not too distant past, pre-flood. I believe I have clean fuel, see previous post about fuel system. I’ll try your recommendation and report. And I’ll keep my hands clear of the distributor 😁 Thank you sirs! |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22049 |
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660 RPM on the PTO at wide open/full throttle.
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wjohn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 19 Jan 2010 Location: KS Points: 2249 |
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Along these lines... Look around inside the tank with a really good light as best you can. I had a tractor that would die after 5-10 minutes of running almost every time, and it ended up being a dead moth that was semi-suspended in the gas. It would get sucked down towards the tank outlet as you ran the engine, blocking it almost completely, and then it would slowly float away when the engine died and gas quit running. Smaller debris might not totally block it off. EDIT: Didn't hit send on this until now, and I see you posted that you did go through the tank - but it doesn't hurt to check again just in case.
Edited by wjohn - 18 hours 2 minutes ago at 9:41pm |
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1939 B, 1940 B, 1941 WC, 1951 WD, 1952 CA, 1956 WD-45
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