Restored d17 project

That's a bad deal. I figured he'd have someone else (competent) fix it right and keep it after all the $$$$$ spent on it.

In my case, the valves hung up in the head. Bent pushrods, bent valves, and left a mark in the piston where they made contact. Might even consider having the rods inspected as well.

hard to believe that EVERY VALVE was stuck.. but possible... I would check the CAM TIMING... that would effect ALL valves  hitting the pistons.... checking the rods for any BEND would be a good idea.

Funny thing is I don’t see any damage to the pistons or valves…

Found these numbers on on piston; AE 233

Maybe a brand and part number?

I’ll remove the timing gears cover and check it out.
Think I’m still going to have to split the tractor due to a hydraulic leak in the clutch housing.

Thanks!!

Could the governor fail and send debris into the timing gears and cause the cam to lock up?

Les Kerf wrote: DrAllis wrote: ... Maybe, just maybe, the governor weights blew apart while the engine was running AND no one was sitting on the seat to shut off the key ?? .... ...AND maybe the guy WAS sitting in the seat and reached around with a broomstick and shoved the throttle wide open on the carburetor... I spent 30 years in sawmill maintenance, and the single most difficult part about troubleshooting equipment problems was getting accurate, and COMPLETE information about what actually happened. What did you see? What did you hear? What was the machine doing immediately prior to the wreck? What was changed/adjusted? Etc.

    les and dr. that is exactly hits the nail on the head   getting correct info.  and you cannot be an expert on a perticualer brand verey easy when you work on multipe brands of stuff 

Would it still leave marks on the pistons if it was slowly getting turned over?
Like if someone tried to pull start it?
Or is it just lucky and didn’t leave marks….
I’m just plump curious on why there is no marks anywhere that I can find.

Makes me wonder if the push rods were even engaging the lifters.

55allis wrote: Here is a picture of the sheet I got of what he supposedly did to it. It wouldn’t let me post a picture of it but it copied it. Allis Chalmers D-17 Statement of Repairs • Decals/Nose Emblem • Clutch Assembly (All) disc & pressure plate replaced • Replace Throw Out Bearing • Changed out Clutch Shaft • New Piston Rings • New Bearings • New Gaskets • Rebuilt Head-ground valves • Rebuilt Carburetor • Rebuilt Hydraulic Pump • Rebuilt Water Pump • Rebuilt Governor • Flushed and repaired radiator • New Rim on Rear End (1) • Replaced Front Rim (Used)(1) • Sand blasted rims and sheet metal • Painted entire Tractor • Split tractor 3 times • Rebuilt the head twice • Cleaned and Sealed Gas Tank • Replaced rear axle seals • New Brakes and seals • New wire harness and wiring • New Gauges and switches • New Steering Wheel • New Muffler • Switched from Generator to alternator • New points, plugs, condenser and cap • New Tires front and rear-with tubes • Starter Rebuilt • Replaced all hoses and clamps • Replaced Fan Belt • Replaced lights and or bulbs as needed • Seat Cover • Antifreeze, Oil, Rear End Oil, Hydraulic Oil • Oil Filter • Fly Wheel Ring Gear • Sediment Bowl • Shifter Boot

Well, I will share something that happened to me a couple of years ago.  I've got a One-Seventy gas tractor. It had been overhauled by someone probably less than 500 hrs before i bought it.  It was a poorly done "in-chassis" OH. The engine had a slight thump or noise when it idled after getting warmed up. I tolerated that for the first summer of tractor riding and the next winter pulled the engine out to fix the badly leaking rear crankshaft seal. Well, the noise was the thrust surface on the crank was totally destroyed and the crank had about 1/8" of endplay. This being due to (I assumed) someone many moons ago not keeping the clutch pedal adjusted for freeplay. So, I had another crankshaft, got it reground to -.010"/-.010" and stuck it in the block from underneath. At the same time, I installed the last known new 175 camshaft that exists !! Why not ?? Pretty easy to do at that point. So, new mains, rods and cam bearings and a higher lift 175 camshaft. What a combo !!  I had run a compression test before ever beginning work on the bottom end and it was OK fine.  So, mid-summer of tractor rides and the engine dropped the #1 exhaust valve at full throttle going down the road with 30 other tractors following me. It destroyed the cyl head. It poked a hole in the piston top. It also had the rocker arm to that valve destroyed as well with metal flakes everywhere around the front of the cylinder head.  What the Sam Hill has happened here ??  It took me a bit to finally connect all the dots, but the knuckle head that did many other things wrong on the engine OH didn't have that particular VALVE GUIDE pressed in the head as far as it should have been !!!!! So, with the installation of the higher lift 175 camshaft, the valve rotator was just kissing the top of the valve guide, eventually knocking the keepers loose at high RPM's and dropping the valve. So, I've been dealing with metal in the oil from that failure 2 years ago and even with magnets in the oil pan, I now hear the center main bearing pound whenever I start the engine cold until the oil pressure light goes out.  Soooo, back to EIGHT bend pushrods..........better be sure the valve guides are installed at the proper depth !!!!!!   I never bend a push rod because it wasn't hitting hard, just kissing. But this D-17 engine??? Something is terribly wrong.

Edited by DrAllis - 14 hours 24 minutes ago at 8:31am