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Codger 
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Joined: 23 Dec 2020
Location: Utopia
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 Topic: Deere Before Allis:
Posted: 14 May 2025 at 6:49am |
3020 Deere. Really good condition but main hydraulic pump has taken to seeping. Works fine but is needing resealed. Owner purchased a brand new one as doesn't want to have problems later on as tractor is a working unit. Multi year loyal customer so I won't tell the family "No" to any work they need. Pays well too in cash at job completion:
Parking spot in the shop:
Steer axle removed for clearance:
Leaker:
Damned pump is heavy so used transmission jack to remove it from the tractor:
Owner ordered brand new rear tires and tubes and they will arrive at the shop this afternoon. Old dry rotted and cracked originals are full of calcium so I'll need to see if that gets replaced or not. I'll blast the rims clean and paint them up before remounting the new tires.
This job will partially fund other projects going on around the "hood".
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thendrix
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Joined: 04 Feb 2013
Location: Fairmount GA
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Posted: 14 May 2025 at 7:48am |
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Whether you like green paint or not those 3000 and 4000 series deeres are some good looking tractors
Edited by thendrix - 14 May 2025 at 7:48am
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"Farming is a business that makes a Las Vegas craps table look like a regular paycheck" Ronald Reagan
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HudCo
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Joined: 29 Jan 2013
Location: Plymouth Utah
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Posted: 14 May 2025 at 8:16am |
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every thing we work on here is green or red as they were the big dealers hear in the 60s 70s 80s
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Codger
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Posted: 14 May 2025 at 12:25pm |
Green, blue, red, yellow, orange, really doesn't matter much to me as they all pay in the same shade of green which does matter.
New pump matches old near exact and is Deere supplied. Old pump on left fresh from solvent tank:
After moving fittings over with new sealing rings:
Fasteners are in solvent tank degreasing so will slip it back together after lunch and wrap the job tomorrow morning. Greasy slimeball on the underside, (oh wait, that's me  ) as the front seal really started leaking and throwing last year during harvest; or the story goes:
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dkattau
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Joined: 20 Mar 2011
Location: Nebraska
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Posted: 14 May 2025 at 1:16pm |
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If that new pump has a serial number plate, you’ll need to time it to the engine to prevent vibration in the hydraulic system. Outer dimple on the pump shaft goes in the 1:00 position when engine is at TDC.
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Codger
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Location: Utopia
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Posted: 14 May 2025 at 3:18pm |
 dkattau wrote:
If that new pump has a serial number plate, you’ll need to time it to the engine to prevent vibration in the hydraulic system. Outer dimple on the pump shaft goes in the 1:00 position when engine is at TDC. |
Thank you, I've never heard that in the past. Both the old, and new pump have holes, or marks on the input shaft. I didn't know what they were for but was planning to align the new to the old before slipping the unit together. The engine has not been rotated but I will ensure the engine is on TDC now knowing.
Thanks again.
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Ky.Allis
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Joined: 31 Jan 2010
Location: Kentucky
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Posted: 14 May 2025 at 3:59pm |
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Is the new pump "Brand New" or a factory Re-Man? Just curious how proud JD is of it, $2K? Been helping a friend refurbishing a NH 2450 swather/haybine. The header is hyd. driven and brand-new (NH) hyd. motor was $2,800 with 6-month warranty and factory (NH) Re-Man was $2,100 with a 2-year warranty. Went the cheaper route.
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Codger
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Posted: 14 May 2025 at 4:47pm |
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I don't know myself but will ask. I know it came from Sloan's through my cousin I help out during harvest as he receives a discount.
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Codger
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Posted: 14 May 2025 at 10:00pm |
Brand new pump supplied through Deere. I'm asked to not reveal price as a personal relationship is at play, but it is close to a reman unit in the aftermarket.
As prior poster mentioned, timing is important and I'm grateful this was brought up. The pump is shipped in the one o'clock position in the box so will align the crankshaft timing marks to correlate and slip it together tomorrow sometime.
Owner is dropping the new tires and tubes tomorrow morning and doesn't want the calcium ballast in the new ones. I showed him the deterioration around the valve stem on one side and I may weld this closed and punch another through someplace else. Local tire vendor has beet juice and they'll install that for him.
Edited by Codger - 15 May 2025 at 6:41am
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Codger
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Joined: 23 Dec 2020
Location: Utopia
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Posted: 15 May 2025 at 6:36am |
I ordered a manual for this tractor series this morning. It will get use as they do plan to retain the tractor for some time. Only piece of equipment they have that is gasoline powered, but it is liked, and has a bit of history with it in their family.
Hopefully get this wrapped up and loader reinstalled over the weekend. More of their stuff needs to come over for both service, and repair.
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Trinity45
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Joined: 17 Mar 2014
Location: Kentucky
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Posted: 15 May 2025 at 12:27pm |
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We had a 3020 gas, worse tractor we ever had.
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Codger
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Posted: 15 May 2025 at 12:44pm |
Trinity45 wrote:
We had a 3020 gas, worse tractor we ever had. |
Like people, there are both good and bad.
What specific problems did you have? Repetitive in nature, underperforming in tasks ask of it etc? This one I'm told has been a sweetheart and serves the purpose well. I have no experience myself so inquisitive in nature.
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joe
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Location: SW Ontario
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Posted: 17 May 2025 at 10:33am |
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Edited by joe - 17 May 2025 at 10:34am
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joe
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Posted: 17 May 2025 at 10:34am |
Ky.Allis wrote:
Is the new pump "Brand New" or a factory Re-Man? Just curious how proud JD is of it, $2K? Been helping a friend refurbishing a NH 2450 swather/haybine. The header is hyd. driven and brand-new (NH) hyd. motor was $2,800 with 6-month warranty and factory (NH) Re-Man was $2,100 with a 2-year warranty. Went the cheaper route. |
That's quite a price difference, and sometimes, with reman, you actually get a brand new part, but reman pricing and warranty. I hope it performs well for him, but I'd think long and hard, even at $700 more, and only 6 months warranty. Reman can often be rebuilding worn out components.
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Codger
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Location: Utopia
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Posted: 28 May 2025 at 6:15am |
Pump slipped right in late last week, (timed correctly) and buttoned up as far as connections. I found the coupling hose for the fuel filler neck parted, (original) and the main suction hose between the oil cooler and pump inlet to be cracking and aged so am replacing via the local Deere dealer. Radiator hoses are being renewed also. Oil cooler was partially restricted so removed the same and going to pressure was it clean. No real way to get straight to it while in the tractor.
Also replacing the transmission oil and filters as several years aged in the tractor. Have two fresh five gallon pails of the Deere fluid specified by the dealership. Owner dropped off two brand new drive tires and three tubes and will have them filled with "beet juice".
Pump installed:
New cruising tires:
Fuel filler hose on bottom of hood panel:
Other end of hose on fuel tank:
Oil cooler outlet, hydraulic pump inlet coupling hose:
Oil cooler before removal:
Oil cooler removed:
New section of fuel filler hose. I'm awaiting the oil cooler discharge hose into the pump and should have Thursday. Strange size and I don't do "Fitz All" repairs if correct parts are available:
Now off to Chicagoland to watch another 8th grade graduation ceremony.
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dkattau
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Joined: 20 Mar 2011
Location: Nebraska
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Posted: 28 May 2025 at 3:22pm |
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Did you clean the transmission pump pickup screen too?
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Codger
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Posted: 28 May 2025 at 6:10pm |
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I have not at this time. Only drained the sump. I will have a book on the tractor tomorrow and that will guide me much better as I've never worked on one of these in the past. I did circulate the drain oil through my filter cart and plan to reutilize it as a flush prior to installing new oil. There really wasn't anything wrong with the former pump but a leaking front seal causing it to seep oil. Unless cost prohibitive to replace oil with a hydraulic pump change, I tend to do this operation as a precaution.
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dkattau
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Posted: 28 May 2025 at 7:52pm |
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Any time you drain the hyd/trans oil on a Deere(10-60 series), you’ll want to check the trans pump pickup screen. It can save you a lot of trouble in the future. There’s a plug in front of the LH final drive. Takes a 1/2 inch drive ratchet.
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Codger
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Posted: 21 hours 15 minutes ago at 5:08am |
Thanks kindly. Never seeing one of these in the past lead me to order a correct manual for it. I figured being a power shift unit there had to be screens and/or filters for service.
I should receive some coupling hose and the manual today and possibly get the tractor back operational by the weekend. Hopefully the loader frame goes back on as easily as it removed.
I'll see this tractor at least yearly for maintenance routines into the future as I do many other pieces of equipment for the family. A service manual will be a benefit into the future.
Thanks,
Edited by Codger - 21 hours 4 minutes ago at 5:19am
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dkattau
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Posted: 20 hours 8 minutes ago at 6:15am |
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Since it’s a powershift, you might want to think about sliding a hardware magnet inside the pickup screen after you check it. That’ll pick up any future metal and keep it out of the planetaries and main hydraulic pump. I think I paid $10 for one about a month ago at the veterinarian.
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Codger
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Posted: 18 hours 26 minutes ago at 7:57am |
dkattau wrote:
Since it’s a powershift, you might want to think about sliding a hardware magnet inside the pickup screen after you check it. That’ll pick up any future metal and keep it out of the planetaries and main hydraulic pump. I think I paid $10 for one about a month ago at the veterinarian. |
Thanks kindly for that magnet idea. I actually install magnets most anyplace that will offer clearance if one is not present in gearboxes and such. Never a bad idea to pick up burnishings before they can circulate. Typically I'll glue a magnet to a drain plug if not that way already. I actually did just that on my White tractor last week when working with the finals, and transmission oils. McMaster has a plethora of types and sizes.
Just received a text as I type this the parts order is in at the Deere dealer so very well may get this tractor back operational yet this week.
Thanks kindly for your assistance. Been a real help with this project.
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dkattau
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Posted: 17 hours 55 minutes ago at 8:28am |
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You’re welcome. Anytime.
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Codger
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Posted: 15 hours 7 minutes ago at 11:16am |
Picked up the needed hose section, transmission filters, gasoline filter, air filter element(s), and two pails of the Hy-Gard transmission fluid. Owner has engine oil filters and I have bulk engine oil at the shop. Hopefully good to go in reassembly now. Still need to pick up a couple of hose clamps as the originals were not the worm drive types but rather the type where a machine screw locks them in place, (original).
Dealer had both the nylon screen, and stainless steel screens in stock should the original be compromised in any way. Not yet removed so no idea to original. Neither had magnets installed so no reason to believe original does.
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Codger
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Posted: 9 hours 40 minutes ago at 4:43pm |
Pretty fair progress in the few short hours worked. Oil bath air cleaner was a milkshake of water and almost softened creme cheese shown here:
Transmission screen was incredibly clean and free from debris shown here:
Same screen after cleaning:
Filters were dated 1999 so no tellings how long since service but tractor has sat in conditioned space barn unused for a lot of years:
I commented to the Deere dealer how much this looked the same as a Deere 350B dozer I'm vaguely familiar with. While he didn't know, the yellow interior paint is almost a dead giveaway to the multipurpose this casting played, and was built upon for different market segments.
Will get to the engine oil filter tomorrow under this cover:
Transmission drain oil was very clean with a light brown "tinge" to it. It is obvious the tractor has had an easy life mechanically and has been maintained well. I did speak with the original owner's brother whom I've known many years, (original owner deceased) and he tells me the tractor was so fuel hungry it always ran an auger and conveyor rather than plow, or tillage work. They kept it till the owner's passing as the only Deere tractor they purchased new. I'm told it was a good tractor but that used aftermarket wide front, (Speeco) was a purchase they wished they'd never made. By looking at it and the repairs, it obviously is not the best/strongest available.
This has been an interesting learning experience for me. Have rebuilt engines and such for the brand but never have worked on one of their farm tractors per se'. Have a little experience with Deere dozers but that is all u/c work and tracks.
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acken
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Posted: 5 hours 44 minutes ago at 8:39pm |
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3020 gas power shift tractors were a bit starved for power. If I remember correctly the upshift from 6th gear was the worst jump.
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Codger
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Posted: 5 hours 26 minutes ago at 8:57pm |
acken wrote:
3020 gas power shift tractors were a bit starved for power. If I remember correctly the upshift from 6th gear was the worst jump. |
I did drive this tractor just a bit before bringing it in for this work. The carburetor required a rebuild so was very sluggish on power. The main jet was almost totally restricted with this ethanol based crap we have to burn. That jump from 5th to 6th, 6th to 7th, and 7th to 8th was indeed awful steep. Once the rpm's came back up it had pretty good road manners as I was traveling at a pretty good clip by then.
Thanks,
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