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Learning how to plow

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J. Larsen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J. Larsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Learning how to plow
    Posted: 14 May 2024 at 3:12pm
1.  I purchased a Case 3 bottom 16" moldboard plow. 
 2.  Since this is not a snap coupler plow, I'm thinking that I need to use the position control to regulate the depth of the plow.  When I drop the plow to the ground and start forward with the tractor, the 3 point hitch arms stay at the predetermined level, but the plow trys to go to the center of the earth, raises the front end off the ground, and spins out.
 3.  This probably should have been my first statement, this is a gasoline WD45.  Do I need to install a gauge wheel on the plow to prevent it from going to deep?
4.  The tires are filled with calcium, but I don't believe to the max.
5.  Any suggestions on what I need to do different?
Thanks,
JL
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 3:42pm
when you set the plow on the ground, how HORIZONTAL is the bottom relative to the ground ? ........ You can adjust your TOP LINK if your digging in too much.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ac45dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ac45dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 3:47pm
This video does a good job on plow set up.  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NjZSTwJ3laI
54 wd-45gas ; 56 wd-45d N/F w/fact p/s ; 63 d-17 sIII N/F gas ; 60 D14 N/F ; 67 d-17 sIV N/F gas ; 63D15 sII W/F; 39rc#667 ; 2021 massey 4710 fwa ; gravely 2 wheel tractors
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 3:56pm
A WD-45 doesn't have a "depth" control. The plow needs a slip heel on the rear bottom or a tire beside the rear bottom. Traction Booster system must be working properly (if it can) with your type of 3 point hitch. Rear wheels must be set to correct width. 3 x 16's on a WD-45 in some soils may be too much plow.
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J. Larsen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J. Larsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 5:58pm
I have the plow level on both axis. I've not went far enough to have to compensate for the wheels being in the furrow. If I lengthen the top link, won't that just put the rear bottom deeper?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 5:59pm
#1 if possible, find an operators manual for your Case plow
  #2 access how worn out the landslides are. Worn landslides will allow the plow to track towards the land.
  #3 most 3pt plows have the ability to alter the orientation of the pullbar to help center the draft: Refer to operators manual.
   #4 Go find a snap coupler plow.   
If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 6:04pm
are all three digging in together... or is the FRONT digging while the back slip heal is still setting on the ground ?
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 6:24pm
Add-on 3-point hitches are sometimes not really well designed. By that I mean the actual length of the draft/pull arms may be too long, moving the plow farther away from the tractor, which makes it pull harder. Lengthening the top link will tend to "nose up" the plow, which will help keep it from sucking itself too deep making it too much load for your tractor. Pretty easy to give the top link a couple of turns longer at a time and see what it does for you.
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J. Larsen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J. Larsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:02pm
I enjoyed the video, and looking forward to trying the plow settings that were demonstrated. I have come to the conclusion that I need a gauge wheel by the rear molboard.
Thanks for the input.
JL.
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J. Larsen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J. Larsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:06pm
I agree that controlling the rear molboard is my priority right now, before I can work on other adjustments. Tell me about the slip heel, I don't know as I understand what that is?
Thanks, JL
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J. Larsen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J. Larsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:09pm
I would love to find a snap coupler plow!
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J. Larsen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J. Larsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:12pm
They all seem to be going in together.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:27pm
I have come to the conclusion that I need a gauge wheel by the rear molboard.

the HEEL , like on your foot , is at the back and keeps you from sinking into the ground... as you said... a WHEEL serves the same purpose..
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:40pm
None of the older snap-coupler plows had a depth wheel on them. They had a slip heel on the rear plow bottom. I have both types and they both work well if one knows how to adjust the plow. Why you wouldn't re-try your plow by lengthening the top link is beyond me. It's easy to do and costs NOTHING. Also, does your 3-pt hitch activate the Traction Booster system or not ??????? It is a tremendous advantage to have the Traction Booster working, especially with a plow that may be 6 inches too wide of cut for a WD-45 tractor.
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J. Larsen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J. Larsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 9:43pm
So is this something different than the landside, or is it like a skid plate that attaches to the landside?
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 10:46pm
GOOGLE....

AI Overview

Yes, the rear bottom end of a landslide that rubs against the furrow sole is known as the heel of a plowThe heel is used in plows that don't have a rear furrow wheel. Some plows have a cast-iron slip heel that can be easily replaced. 


Edited by steve(ill) - 14 May 2024 at 10:46pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 May 2024 at 11:02pm
Tell us about the hitch you have. Where / what is it attatched to to pull? Maybe it renders your traction booster useless. That would not lead to success with a 3pt plow especially.
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Steve A View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2024 at 8:04pm
Post some pictures of the 3 pt hitch, back of the tractor--especially where the top link is hooked up, the plow, etc.
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J. Larsen View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J. Larsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2024 at 10:40pm
I will try to get some pics tomorrow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 May 2024 at 10:44pm
Your WD45’s right side tire(s) should be running in plow furrow ~ correct? If yes, adjust tractor’s right side wheels outward to allow 16” bottom width measured from inside wall of right rear tire to landside of 1st bottom.

Then 3pt hitch’s lower draft arms need to be adjusted to proper heights to allow plow to run level while tractor is operating with right tire(s) in plow furrow. To do this, set lower left draft arm at its lowest height setting. Then set lower right draft arm about 2” higher from its lowest height setting.
Now with plow initially leveled but slightly tilted upward on its right side, lower plow into unplowed field to create first pass. There is no furrow, so right side of plow will be running shallow. That’s ok. Plow will not be as difficult to pull. And this first pass shouldn’t ridge up as bad on its right side? After plowing 50’ or so, operator can then stop & adjust plow’s rear depth to attain 7”? 8”? or whatever furrow depth is desired.
For front of plow depth, use tractor’s traction booster. Now plow has been initially leveled from front to rear. Once a furrow has been created, plow’s left to right level & front to back level can both be tweaked as needed.

Edited by AC7060IL - 16 May 2024 at 7:17am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rtwfarm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2024 at 3:56am
Have several snap coupler plows 402-469-1738 cheap
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2024 at 6:24am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

None of the older snap-coupler plows had a depth wheel on them. They had a slip heel on the rear plow bottom. I have both types and they both work well if one knows how to adjust the plow. Why you wouldn't re-try your plow by lengthening the top link is beyond me. It's easy to do and costs NOTHING. Also, does your 3-pt hitch activate the Traction Booster system or not ??????? It is a tremendous advantage to have the Traction Booster working, especially with a plow that may be 6 inches too wide of cut for a WD-45 tractor.

Well it’s only been like 6 hours, and now it’s dark, so maybe he’ll try it, give him some time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Oldwrench Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2024 at 6:40am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote IBWD MIke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2024 at 8:18am
A good snap-coupler plow would be the best solution as others have alluded to. However, his location is a complicating factor. Seems like there is a model 53 plow in every section in Iowa, and several in most! In his part of Wyoming, machinery is harder to come by! I've got multiple good snap-coupler plows I'd sell too but RTW and probably others are much closer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2024 at 5:21pm
Originally posted by J. Larsen J. Larsen wrote:

I have the plow level on both axis. I've not went far enough to have to compensate for the wheels being in the furrow. If I lengthen the top link, won't that just put the rear bottom deeper?
if your plow is level to same “tractor’s level”, then when plow is lowered & sucked into earth, it’s first bottom has no where that is “vacant”(empty furrow) to push its earth. Another words, first bottom is extremely loaded by trying to lift its whole 16” width & whatever its depth, up & over adjacent earth. That’s a huge load. Try raising the 3pts lower right draft arm 2” & then try it again. Maybe even try 3” raise to offer an easier start??
Does it’s 3 pt have adjustable height draft arms??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J. Larsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 May 2024 at 8:50pm
I appreciate all of the suggestions, and just need to find the time to try them all out. I need to set the hyd pump up for traction booster and try some different top link settings. I do have adjustable lift arms. I had sent some pics on a different thread, and I just need to teach myself how to do it again.
Does any one have a picture of the slipper, that sounds pretty easy to fabricate and install. I'm afraid of the freight cost to purchase a snap coupler plow and have it shipped to WY. What does a good plow go for?
Thanks again for all the suggestions.
JL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Les Kerf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2024 at 7:48am
Originally posted by DrAllis DrAllis wrote:

... 3 x 16's on a WD-45 in some soils may be too much plow.

My experience is FAR less than virtually everyone on this forum but my Father-in-law's WD with the Snap Coupler 2-14's in our hard soil was about all it wanted.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J. Larsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2024 at 7:48pm
I think I made some progress today. When I rechecked my hyd. pump linkage, I left the plow attached. I set the hyd system for traction boost mode. The plow didn't try and sink to the center of the earth, in fact I could only get it to go in the ground 2 or 3 inches, then the traction booster would raise it up, and then back into the ground again, but constantly going up and down. My quadrant lever was as far down as possible.   I lengthened the 3 point arms, but didn't make much difference. I feel good that the TB seems to be trying to work, but not sure I'm getting all of the finesse in the adjusting procedure.   I brought everything back in the shop and removed the plow and went through the linkage adjustments once again, but it just didn't seem quiet right. Put the plow on,and it acted the same way, just constantly going up and down,but only into the ground a couple of inches.
I know it's asking alot, but I think it
would be very helpful for me if someone that's familiar with this system would get on a video call with me, and walk through the adjustments with me. Any thoughts?
Thanks, JL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2024 at 8:00pm
The large coil spring that surrounds the PTO shaft may have some shims that can be removed to make the spring stiffer to keep the plow from hunting like it is. Loosen the two 1/2" bolts to remove the shims and retighten the bolts afterwards. ***** There could also be an engineering problem using a 3 point hitch versus the regular snap-coupler hitch. When the lift arms raise one inch, the 3-point hitch draft arms raise MORE than one inch, which lifts the plow more than a snap-coupler plow would be lifted. A-C engineered the Traction Booster system around their lift arm length and snap-coupler plow dimensions. It may never work right as a 3-point hitch system.

Edited by DrAllis - 17 May 2024 at 8:10pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote J. Larsen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 2024 at 10:16pm
I'm following exactly what you are saying about the drawbar spring. I had those bolts out today, but i understood the book stated that there should be 3/16" of free play on the spring.   That's an easy item to try.
Thanks, JL
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