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Reviving a WD45 |
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 02 Dec 2023 at 11:35am |
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It's been there since I can remember. Don't know what brand. Someone did a nice job cutting the tin to fit ![]() Carb is a TSX 464 Edited by plummerscarin - 02 Dec 2023 at 11:37am |
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4035 |
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The linkage has lots of adjustment available. I tried many different combo's before I was satisfied with mine. Thinking back on the prior carb. It is a new replacement Zenith. Sinking the linkage may have helped that, don't know. It ran fine, went from low idle to high in about half an inch of lever movement.
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AllisFreak MN ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 07 Dec 2009 Location: Minnesota Points: 1584 |
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I like the oval muffler on there.
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'49 A-C WD, '51 A-C WD, '63 A-C D17 Series III, 1968 A-C One-Seventy, '82 A-C 6060, '75 A-C 7040, A-C #3 sickle mower, 2 A-C 701 wagons, '78 Gleaner M2
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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Pretty sure it’s the right carb. Will double check. I started by disconnecting the governor to carb rod. Pulled the lever down and it does not reach full travel. So I believe something is limiting travel within the governor body or the linkage between it and the throttle lever. I can see the linkage may have some adjustability
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4035 |
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Plummer, I have fought that throttle thing on two 45's and a straight WD. The WD now works just like it came from the factory. It had a replacement carb on it, went back to original. Eventually got the 45's to work right also but it took a lot of effort and syncing of the governor rod.
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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![]() Lights work! The throttle lever may need some attention. At full speed the lever does not move all the way down and there is some spring back which drops RPM. I do have a manual to study and remedy this. Also would be a good time to check actual RPM, timing and point settings. |
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4035 |
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A battery that charges and a sediment bowl that does not leak are two HUGE things in my tractor world!
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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I went rogue and stayed with the existing charging system. The whole thing was converted to a 60s GM style with a totally farmricated wiring harness. Some of the materials look like stuff Dad was using at the time before he passed. The circuitry similar to a 170 wiring schematic. So, I had gotten an alternator earlier a d have subsequently replaced the external voltage regulator with a solid state type.
![]() Yes, the harness is hardly presentable but as you can see the charging system is working ![]() A new ammeter as recommended by DJs for this type conversion. Overkill? IDK, but again is working. ![]() The old one didn't move at all. New light switch. The lights are mounted on the fenders but they work once I get a good ground. Only have one original style light which currently is not working. The cork sediment bowl gasket has apparently acclimated itself to its surroundings as it currently is not leaking. Yay Edited by plummerscarin - 30 Nov 2023 at 7:22am |
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IBWD MIke ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 08 Apr 2012 Location: Newton Ia. Points: 4035 |
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Sounds like you had a good day! It was chilly yesterday but wasn't bad working outside.
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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Found some time to mess with it. Since it needed choke to run at anything above idle I decided to disassemble the carb again. Flushed everything out and though I couldn't see it well enough it appeared there may been something over the needle and seat assembly. Looks cleaner now than prior to flushing. Also opened the sediment bowl valve and ran gas out the line in to a plastic bowl and saw some debris come out that fuel line. After I had sealed the tank, the threads to the fuel bowl needed chased with a pipe tap. That debris cleaned from the threads is what I believe got in to the line and carb. Put all back together and after it warmed up a bit, took it for trip down the road and back. Ran very well in road gear. Will do some fine tuning on the carb a little later. Sounds like the water pump is rather noisy. Brakes are good.
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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I put a new sediment bowl assembly on the 170 and have had no trouble with it. In the case of this WD45, the threads were highly corroded and the bowl showed a crack though I couldn't feel it. Rather than a new one, I took the one from Dad's WD project to use. The bowl and plastic screen are in good shape. I placed bowl in the base without the cork gasket and it seems to fit well, no rocking which would indicate the base is flat. I installed a new cork gasket then the screen as I assume the step in the glass bowl is to recess the strainer so the cork will seal against the top edge. I then tried a rubber gasket which was worse. Then tried the screen first with gasket between screen and bowl. That leaks even worse. Will try another cork gasket then may resort to a whole new assembly. Won't be back at it for while till I get a few other things done first
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dr p ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 24 Feb 2019 Location: new york Points: 1386 |
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I think the replacement sediment bowl assembly are being made now by the same people who makes points and condenser. Seems like you have to buy two to get one that doesn't leak
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 2936 |
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Sounds about like my luck. Did just clean my D 15 sediment bowl and after reinstall had no leaks
Had a new gasket just in case. Good luck with your carb! |
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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Well it looks like I done screwed up. I replaced the sediment bowl with a “better” one but was having trouble getting it to not leak. I removed the screen briefly to see if it made a difference, which it didn’t, but in the meantime it seems debris has found its way in to the carb. Disappointing for sure since I had just sealed this tank possibly got sediment from a fuel can. It is real sensitive to choke adjustment and if it dies, restarts easily. Will be disassembling the carb to verify
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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![]() Couple photos of how the seat is relocated ![]() |
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DON G ![]() Silver Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 14 Feb 2014 Location: Lowpoint, IL Points: 408 |
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In 1958 we put a Ford 2 row mounted corn picker on the WD . That was used to raise and center steering wheel. |
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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Tooth count is the same for both so no gear reduction. Just a method to raise and center the wheel over the platform. Seat is also moved to center and a padded seat added. I'll add a picture soon showing the offset. |
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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I came across an old thread on here. Supposedly to relocate for certain mounted picker. The seat would be located on the picker. My uncle however is quite tall and am sure it was much better to drive for him. |
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8569 |
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Hard to to count but i'm sure the driver has one less tooth....gear reduction
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Stan R ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Location: MA Points: 991 |
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What's the purpose of the relocate kit? I don't see any gear reduction. For tall farmers???
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Lon(MN) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Merrill Wi Points: 2021 |
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Looks and fits real nice.
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http://lonsallischalmers.com
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SteveM C/IL ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Shelbyville IL Points: 8569 |
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It's to keep MUD out of the belt and pulley. Dirt is not an issue.
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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So this showed up on my doorstep today.
![]() Had asked earlier what the spring loaded rings were for. Panel covers the belt area keeping out dirt and such from the NF tires Lon provided this for the project. Thanks much. |
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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Yep, understood.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87187 |
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I have power to and through the resistor and coil.
Resistor means it has an older 6 volt coil working on a 12 volt system.. OK if its working.. Keep in mind that if running problems ( no spark) occur , you should dump that coil and resistor and get a NEW 12 v coil with INTERNAL resistor.. Good longer term upgrade.
Edited by steve(ill) - 19 Oct 2023 at 8:38pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87187 |
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I would dump that voltage regulator and the OLD style alternator and get a NEWER 10 SI or CS 130 Delco and install it... They have an INTERNAL regulator and much more reliable.
Edited by steve(ill) - 19 Oct 2023 at 8:39pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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Inside the relocate kit
![]() This is one Dad apparently got for the WD and never installed it. Chain in both were pretty rusty. WD45 soaked a few days. Shaft openings are well worn but have no intention replacing at this time. Haven't made progress on the charging system but need to move out for a bit. So I fired it up and took it for a couple laps around the garden. I had freed up the pivot points on clutch and brake pedals. They work well and it seems to drive well. Hand clutch feels good. |
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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Remarkably the starter button has been reliable. It has a rubber cover on it not weather checked.
![]() Battery cables, not so much. 12v negative ground system. Delco 10DN alternator. Appears to have been wired similar to the wiring on the 170 ![]() Couple broken wires. Assuming the top one goes to ground but don't see a terminal it could have been attached to. No ground wire found on the alternator ground lug. ![]() Steering relocate kit. Found an old thread on that. There's a chain inside all rusted up. Soaking in chain lube now |
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Ted J ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18930 |
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I was thinking the starter button from the start. Sometimes after sitting so long they tend to go to ground instead of passing through to the starter, It's hard to pinpoint, but this is usually what happens. GOOD LUCK on the next steps... Sorry I didn't read this sooner!
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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plummerscarin ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 3874 |
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So, new battery, battery cables, starter solenoid, cleaned up starter and the engine turns over.
Put a test light on power wire going to the distributor. I have power to and through the resistor and coil. On the distributor side of the coil there was no power until I cranked the engine over. Then the test light flashed on and off indicating the points were working. Opened the sediment valve, gas is flowing and she runs. I’m rather surprised since I’ve had to do so much up to this point. However the charging system and wiring need attention. |
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