Reviving a WD45

The linkage has lots of adjustment available. I tried many different combo's before I was satisfied with mine. Thinking back on the prior carb. It is a new replacement Zenith. Sinking the linkage may have helped that, don't know. It ran fine, went from low idle to high in about half an inch of lever movement.

Pretty sure it’s the right carb. Will double check. I started by disconnecting the governor to carb rod. Pulled the lever down and it does not reach full travel. So I believe something is limiting travel within the governor body or the linkage between it and the throttle lever. I can see the linkage may have some adjustability

Lights work! The throttle lever may need some attention. At full speed the lever does not move all the way down and there is some spring back which drops RPM. I do have a manual to study and remedy this. Also would be a good time to check actual RPM, timing and point settings.

I went rogue and stayed with the existing charging system. The whole thing was converted to a 60s GM style with a totally farmricated wiring harness. Some of the materials look like stuff Dad was using at the time before he passed. The circuitry similar to a 170 wiring schematic. So, I had gotten an alternator earlier a d have subsequently replaced the external voltage regulator with a solid state type.
Yes, the harness is hardly presentable but as you can see the charging system is working

A new ammeter as recommended by DJs for this type conversion. Overkill? IDK, but again is working.


The old one didn't move at all. New light switch. The lights are mounted on the fenders but they work once I get a good ground. Only have one original style light which currently is not working.
The cork sediment bowl gasket has apparently acclimated itself to its surroundings as it currently is not leaking. Yay

Edited by plummerscarin - 30 Nov 2023 at 7:22am

Found some time to mess with it. Since it needed choke to run at anything above idle I decided to disassemble the carb again. Flushed everything out and though I couldn't see it well enough it appeared there may been something over the needle and seat assembly. Looks cleaner now than prior to flushing. Also opened the sediment bowl valve and ran gas out the line in to a plastic bowl and saw some debris come out that fuel line. After I had sealed the tank, the threads to the fuel bowl needed chased with a pipe tap. That debris cleaned from the threads is what I believe got in to the line and carb. Put all back together and after it warmed up a bit, took it for trip down the road and back. Ran very well in road gear. Will do some fine tuning on the carb a little later. Sounds like the water pump is rather noisy. Brakes are good.

I think the replacement sediment bowl assembly are being made now by the same people who makes points and condenser. Seems like you have to buy two to get one that doesn't leak

Well it looks like I done screwed up. I replaced the sediment bowl with a “better” one but was having trouble getting it to not leak. I removed the screen briefly to see if it made a difference, which it didn’t, but in the meantime it seems debris has found its way in to the carb. Disappointing for sure since I had just sealed this tank possibly got sediment from a fuel can. It is real sensitive to choke adjustment and if it dies, restarts easily. Will be disassembling the carb to verify

plummerscarin wrote: Stan R wrote: What's the purpose of the relocate kit? I don't see any gear reduction. For tall farmers??? I came across an old thread on here. Supposedly to relocate for certain mounted picker. The seat would be located on the picker. My uncle however is quite tall and am sure it was much better to drive for him.

    In 1958 we put a Ford 2 row mounted corn picker on the WD . That was used to raise and center steering wheel.

Stan R wrote: What's the purpose of the relocate kit? I don't see any gear reduction. For tall farmers???

I came across an old thread on here. Supposedly to relocate for certain mounted picker. The seat would be located on the picker. My uncle however is quite tall and am sure it was much better to drive for him.

What's the purpose of the relocate kit? I don't see any gear reduction. For tall farmers???

It's to keep MUD out of the belt and pulley. Dirt is not an issue.

Yep, understood.

I would dump that voltage regulator and the OLD style alternator and get a NEWER 10 SI or CS 130 Delco and install it... They have an INTERNAL regulator and much more reliable.

Edited by steve(ill) - 19 Oct 2023 at 8:39pm

Remarkably the starter button has been reliable. It has a rubber cover on it not weather checked.
Battery cables, not so much.
12v negative ground system. Delco 10DN alternator. Appears to have been wired similar to the wiring on the 170

Couple broken wires. Assuming the top one goes to ground but don't see a terminal it could have been attached to. No ground wire found on the alternator ground lug.

Steering relocate kit. Found an old thread on that. There's a chain inside all rusted up. Soaking in chain lube now

So, new battery, battery cables, starter solenoid, cleaned up starter and the engine turns over.
Put a test light on power wire going to the distributor. I have power to and through the resistor and coil. On the distributor side of the coil there was no power until I cranked the engine over. Then the test light flashed on and off indicating the points were working. Opened the sediment valve, gas is flowing and she runs. I’m rather surprised since I’ve had to do so much up to this point. However the charging system and wiring need attention.