Hauling tractors and turbo's

I always stuff a rag in my straight pipe on my XT when I haul it. The air breather pre cleaner reduces air flow to the air box.

1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

Where & how is traveling wind going backward THROUGH exhaust turbo??

I stuffed an old sock or T shirt down the exhaust every time. Talked to my big project mechanic and he mentioned it depends on how your exhaust is positioned. I’ve since followed his advice.

8030 and 8050MFWD, 7580, 3 6080's, 160, 7060, 175, heirloom D17, Deere 8760

My best friend used to haul equipment for his uncles salvage lot. Anything with an operational engine had the exhaust covered.

More likely what DAVE said... air blowing across the top enters the turbo and also exhausts thru the muffler also.... just like driving down the road with one window open..

Edited by steve(ill) - 23 Dec 2022 at 7:51pm

Like them all, but love the "B"s.

Best demonstration ever, was while sitting in a railyard with a spot tamper parked alongside the building. Little Cummins that was ALWAYS shelling turbos, the shop guys blamed Halsett for the failures. Prevailing wind blowing off the ocean by that maintenance building basically 24/7, the rain cap would bounce up and down, and while standing beside the manifold, you could hear that turbine whirl.

It doesn't matter which way ANYTHING is pointing, any difference in pressure can cause the turbine to spin, and if there's no oil pressure, the bearings will run dry 'till they die.

Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.

tbran wrote:

In 1976 AirResearch had some bad turbos. They blamed it on hauling the tractors with uncovered exhausts and thus spinning the turbo w/o oil. We were working in La. with carpenter tractor east of Alexandria. We pulled the intake hose off the turbo - put a paint drop on the compressor wheel and drove the unit on a truck at 70 MPH - never got the turbo to spin. We even left the intake hose off - made sure some valves were at overlap and took off the muffler of the 7080. Nere a spin hauling forward or backwards. The amount of air that could go thru an engine is so small in CFM that the air will go around the fins and not spin the spool. The amount of venturi effect on the exhaust is equalled on the intake. AirResearch had to recant and paid for the turbos. Having said that we try to cover the exhaust when hauling to prevent customer blame if a turbo fails..

Like I said, what does a sock or shop rag cost? Wink

Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!

there are tractors and equipment hauled back and forth around here every day i dont hear about turbos going bad , poeple haul tractors to our shop every day they never have bad turbos.

IBWD MIke wrote:

Had a boat dealer tell me to put the engine in gear for road travel so the prop wouldn't spin. I've watched this on other boats going down the road, if the prop spins, it's very slowly and the amount of air going over it will keep it cool.

Mike- it's not the bearings, etc that are in a problem situation with a whirling boat prop... the lower unit of outboards and I/0s, and the V-drive transmissions, are full of oil, and under basically no load, so there's not a really serious problem here... the clutch dogs will get a little more wear, and if they're rattling against the dog faces as you go, they WILL start to chip the facing off and destroy the dogs...

...but the biggest problem is the propshaft seal. The seal's lip is designed to be submerged and wet, which prevents the rubber from cutting into the shaft. Spin it dry, and two things will happen- first, the lip seal will start to burn up, and second, the shaft will develop an abrasion groove. Run it in the lake for a bit, and your drive lube will weep out, eventually leaving no lubrication. Especially bad in I/O drives, because the upper gearcase is the first portion to become unlubricated, and cooling in the I/O depends on that level being proper, and oil circulation (flung off the tapered vertical shaft) stops when the level is too low... hence, those heavily loaded (and now uncooled) upper pinions melt together catastrophically.

In inboards and V-drives, the shaft log seal is a graphite or wax-impregnated rope, and it, like propshaft lip seal, is lubricated by lake water. Spin that shaft dry for long, and the stuffing box will fail to seal, and in the case of a boat that'll be stored in the lake, it will leak, swamp, and sink.

So it's better to drop it in gear, so that just doesn't happen... or in the case of my runabout, I have a heavily varnished plywood cover that drops over the end of the prop, larger diameter than the prop blades, and a bungee cord that goes around the front of the drive leg. Not only keeps it from spinning, if someone walks up and bumps into the prop, it won't cut a big gash in their leg. It's a surfacing cleaver, and it certainly lives up to it's name... I got a few scars bearing witness ;-)

Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.

I've hauled a lot of equipment through my career. I worked for NYSDOT and they required the exhaust be covered whenever equipment was moved.

I, personally, have never seen a turbo damaged from spinning dry, but I can't imagine that it would do any good by having the turbo spin with no lubrication. The "experts" say it should be covered, so why take a chance?

Thanks for your thoughts and your knowledge about this topic.

I just always stuffed a rag in both pipes when I haul my 210
no matter how far I was going to keep it from turning dry.
And rags are cheaper than replacing a stuck turbo.

Cheap rags are way cheaper than a turbo even if you don’t believe in the theory. Spin a bearing dry too long and your gonna have failure so why risk it. I never thought about the prop on a boat so thanks to the poster for the tip on that one. My bass boat will be in gear or the prop will be strapped from now on. It is a 6 hr drive to Erie Pa each year to small mouth bass fish and to stop and say hey to Brenda and everyone at SLI!! I try to always play it save if it makes sense and in this case it does.

1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD

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