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Rotobaler1247 
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Joined: 16 Apr 2022
Location: East Central MN
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 Topic: Roto Baler belt question
Posted: 16 Apr 2022 at 10:55am |
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So I have a Roto Baler that sat for 25 years, was my dads, and I got it working. I used it last year for the first time. All the belts were questionable then, and after my 60 bales last summer,(VERY dry, crappy year last year) the belts are shot. I found some brand new belt material at an auction and it was enough to do all the belts. Only problem is I measured them and they are 1-1/2" or so narrower than the original ones on the baler. My perception isn't the greatest, so I didn't see it til I used a spare chunk to patch a belt last year. So if I replace all the belts with the narrower stuff will it cause trouble? I see there is guides for the belts, but I'd like to know if anyone else has ever run into this and has any experience with different belts. Will they track ok, or will they walk? Will they get tangled? I have my manual and know the proper length. I'm just wondering if I can use this material I already have, which is brand new, or if I need the proper width. A new set of belts on ebay is $1000. Just asking before I spend $1000. Any and all info is appreciated!
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FloydKS
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: S E Kansas
Points: 8365
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Posted: 16 Apr 2022 at 4:51pm |
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The experts will kick in,, I hope,, but if i remember, when the bale kicks out and rollers go loose, the belts are loose for a couple of seconds while the "next bale hay" starts to feed in the rollers.. Not saying it would be a problem but not ideal... Not a good answer but maybe a start.
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dr p
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Joined: 24 Feb 2019
Location: new york
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Posted: 16 Apr 2022 at 7:27pm |
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I don't think it will be a big deal. When the bale ejects, both sides release at the same time. You may need to use an extra belt. I would be concerned if the space between the bales gets too big, hay may get in between the belts or not place enough tension on the bale to get an even bale
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
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Posted: 16 Apr 2022 at 7:56pm |
The belt guides on a Roto-Baler will only allow 6 belts upper and lower. The way that they run true is the original endless belts were made in a matched set. Endless belts may be all but impossible to find and require knowledge and skill to install. If using "laced" belts they will work if the lengths match exactly, otherwise they will track one way or the other. Endless belts also run much smoother than "laced" belts. As for slightly narrow bels, the bales may not be quite as nice looking as proper size belts. As when using Roto-Balers ALWAYS make sure that the brake is not stuck DAILY before starting for the day.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
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Mikez
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Joined: 16 Jan 2013
Location: Usa
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Posted: 16 Apr 2022 at 8:40pm |
welcome to the forum. Nice that you have it still in family. Have lots of nos rotobaler parts. But only one maybe two belts left
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200Tom1
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 16 Apr 2022 at 9:02pm |
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I started making small round bales in 1962. I've had those belts wear out and only had 1/2 of the belt running forming a bale. It never seemed to bother much. Sometimes the bale would have a rough place where the narrow belt was.
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Rotobaler1247
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Joined: 16 Apr 2022
Location: East Central MN
Points: 6
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Posted: 16 Apr 2022 at 9:13pm |
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Thanks for the info, guys! I really appreciate it! I was hoping I could get away with the material I had. But if it was going to be an issue, I would've spent the money, as I like doing things properly, but also want as few hassles as possible. Sounds like it won't be as big of an issue as I was making it...
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Rotobaler1247
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Joined: 16 Apr 2022
Location: East Central MN
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Posted: 17 Apr 2022 at 11:22am |
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Mike, good to know, I may be talking to you in the future! I know I'll need parts sooner or later!
Edited by Rotobaler1247 - 17 Apr 2022 at 11:23am
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Rotobaler1247
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Joined: 16 Apr 2022
Location: East Central MN
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Posted: 25 Apr 2022 at 8:44pm |
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Does anyone have any info on the #10 baler, or the auxiliary engine that was optional on the roto-baler? Looking for how the #10 works, as in how it recirculates the hay, and how the engine is mounted and hooked up. What parts are necessary? What engine do I look for?
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 53796
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Posted: 25 Apr 2022 at 8:49pm |
I believe the engine would be a B power unit, For more info, its all in Norm Swinford's book, if you can find a copy... 
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Lon(MN)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Merrill Wi
Points: 2015
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Posted: 26 Apr 2022 at 7:19am |
An engine drive number 10 will be on display at the Hutch show. 138 or 149 engine is on it. I have three balers on display if you care to make the trip. A number 10 PTO driven, a fast wrap, and an engine drive. Come look if you are interested.
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http://lonsallischalmers.com
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Rotobaler1247
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Joined: 16 Apr 2022
Location: East Central MN
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Posted: 26 Apr 2022 at 8:33am |
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I sure would like to make the trip, Lon! When is the Hutch show? Unfortunately work will probably get in the way. But if I can stop by, I will! I'll have to look up that book! I'm interested in the workings and uniqueness of the NO. 10, but interested in converting my baler to a power unit one. I am using a Farmall M to power the baler, so more power than I really need, but no live PTO. I wish I could retrofit a hydraulic driven PTO, but the clutching is hard on the leg. The M clutch is stiff, as it's newer, plus my leg ain't good, as I broke it when I was 10 or 11, and it hasn't been right since. And in 35 now. So it only gets worse not better with age. And also not in the market for a different tractor. It's a family unit, and it has sentimental value. And I'm sure you all know about never having enough shed space for another tractor! Thank you!
Edited by Rotobaler1247 - 26 Apr 2022 at 8:34am
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