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AC720Man 
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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 Topic: Fixing hydraulic line leak
Posted: 13 Dec 2021 at 9:57am |
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Ever since I put my 160 back together after a full engine and clutch rebuild, 2 of the power steering lines leak at the steering orbital where they connect. I have new compression rings coming this week. Other than a small cut off wheel, what’s the best way to remove the old ones without damaging the pipe?
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DSeries4
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Ontario, Canada
Points: 7482
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Posted: 13 Dec 2021 at 8:53pm |
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Tube cutter. I do not recommend a cut off wheel for this job - the rough cut can leave filings which can circulate through the system and create more fun for you in the future.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8566
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Posted: 13 Dec 2021 at 10:03pm |
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Are you saying they use ferrules on a steel line? I would thing a little tighter is the answer but you surely tried that. "Compression ring" leaves me scratching my head.
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 14 Dec 2021 at 3:43am |
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Yes, ferrules according to the AGCO book. SLI had them in stock. I have tightened them to the point I’m afraid to go anymore. The orbiter is NLA. Pipe tube cutter is out of the question because I have no extra tubing to put a new ferrule on due to the bend at the nut. I don’t like leaks anywhere but this is worse than I will tolerate unless it’s not possible to resolve without causing further issues.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Tom IA
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Joined: 17 Sep 2009
Location: Donahue IA
Points: 255
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Posted: 14 Dec 2021 at 8:06am |
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make sure the ferrul is close to the end of the pipe if not the tube bottoms out before the ferrul gets tight and cause problems if that is the case you might try taking a little of the end of the pipe
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plummerscarin
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Joined: 22 Jun 2015
Location: ia
Points: 3871
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Posted: 14 Dec 2021 at 12:24pm |
This is my approach to removing ferrules: I use a small hacksaw as they are easier to control and saw at a diagonal across the tube and ferrule. I do this as the tube has been slightly reduced in diameter at the ferrule location and cutting in line with tube you risk damage to the tube. a diagonal cut will help get more material cut out of the ferrule close to the tube. Do not cut all the way through but very thin. then use a screwdriver in the saw cut and twist to break the ferrule and slide off the tube. HTH
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 14 Dec 2021 at 3:16pm |
Sounds like a good approach. I haven’t removed the lines yet as they are a pain in butt to remove. I wanted to wait until the ferrules arrive to see what they are made of as I didn’t really pay that much attention to them during the install. Also a good point about maybe the pipe is slightly too long but I wouldn’t think they would have moved unless the ferrule has become loose on the pipe. Pipe is 1/2” in diameter. 
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 14 Dec 2021 at 7:46pm |
 Appears to be aluminum.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Ted J
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Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
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Posted: 14 Dec 2021 at 10:53pm |
I've got my fingers crossed for you Rob. What plummerscarin does with cutting the ferules off, that's the way I've done it also. Like he says, DON'T cut through or you'll nip the pipe. Don't ask how I know that one.....   Hopefully if you do nip it a bit, you'll have enough pipe that you can push it forward a 32nd and get the new ones on. I used liquid steel on the one I cut through. Good luck!
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
Points: 53849
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Posted: 15 Dec 2021 at 6:00am |
As others have said, use care. A dremel tool with a cut off wheel is also handy, just keep a firm grip on the tool, and clamp the line to something, at a comfortable work level... 
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24572
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Posted: 15 Dec 2021 at 6:13am |
please, pretty please make 100% SURE you install them the right way ! 'bulge' to the end, I think.... maybe take picture of old BEFORE you remove.
This HAS to be a 'gotta have patience' job.
Also, toss the cellphone into theh house, far,far away from you !!!! If not, it'll 'go off' at the wrong time, scare the beejeebers outta you, and you'll be looking for 1) big box of bandaids ,2) an entire new PS hose and 3) new phone cause your's will be flying into the next county.
hope to see a 'success' replay soon, not too soon, take your time....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 15 Dec 2021 at 6:43am |
Thanks everyone for your input. I’m on vacation next week and plan to tackle it then. Yes, patience for sure. Hopefully this will be the last time I will ever need to do this. New engine and clutches should last a long time so hopefully never have to bother these lines again. I will report back when this project is done. I think I will try the hacksaw approach since a power tool can cut quicker and possibly cause damage in the blink of an eye.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AcFordHawk
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Boone, IA
Points: 245
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Posted: 15 Dec 2021 at 7:08am |
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Just some information since the lines are leaking and not the orbiter. I replaced the orbiter on the 160 I had around 6 years ago since the top input seal was leaking on mine and rebuild was not possible. Found the replacement available at a hydraulic/drivetrain company my brother works for and think the cost at that time was around $550-600.
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IB (restoring), MF GC1705, MF 2705E
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016
Location: Shenandoah, Va
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Posted: 26 Dec 2021 at 7:37pm |
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Thanks, I will write that info down hoping I will never need it. Good to have info like that just in case. Got this project done today, no more leaks! Now, my next leak to repair is the seals at the traction booster housing/lift arms. $130/side but they are still available.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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AC720Man
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Posted: 26 Dec 2021 at 7:40pm |
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AcFordhawk, can you pm the name of the company and the phone number so I can keep a record of it?
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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