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Stan IL&TN 
Orange Level
Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
Points: 6730
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 Topic: Metal roof paint
Posted: 24 Mar 2020 at 7:39pm |
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Any recommendations on your favorite metal roof paint that you like?
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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klinemar
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Michigan
Points: 8045
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Posted: 24 Mar 2020 at 7:49pm |
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Ranse
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Joined: 11 Mar 2016
Location: Tennessee
Points: 775
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Posted: 24 Mar 2020 at 7:58pm |
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I got some at Lowe's called Silver Seal 300 Fibered Aluminum coating. I've used similar stuff before, but not sure if it was the same brand. It has to be brushed on, but it will stop a leaky roof form leaking, and it last a lot longer than spray on. I need to do all my barns and sheds this year.
Edited by Ranse - 24 Mar 2020 at 7:59pm
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tomNE
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: dorchester, ne
Points: 1225
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Posted: 24 Mar 2020 at 9:51pm |
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i just use oil based barn paint. if u have a badly rusted roof. you can spray it on 2 years in a row. best to spray in the spring as it takes all summer to dry.
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AC from the start of my families farming career till the end!
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john(MI)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: SE MI
Points: 9262
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Posted: 24 Mar 2020 at 10:16pm |
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The stuff with the fiberglass in it.. It looks like crap in the bucket, but ends up a nice silver color when dried.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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Stan IL&TN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
Points: 6730
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Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 7:54pm |
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Thanks guys I think I am going to go with the oil based paint again as that is what is already on there. It has some rust spots so will use a rust converter on it first then hit it with the top coat.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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HD6GTOM
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Joined: 30 Nov 2009
Location: MADISON CO IA
Points: 6627
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Posted: 12 Aug 2021 at 11:28pm |
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F/S COOP used to have a paint called Zink Cromate. It was very heavy and silver. It was used on fertilizer spreaders and held up well. Now they sell a special white paint to do LP tanks. It is supposed to be slightly elastic so it won't crack like white oil base. I have a gallon in the basement. If the #2 son ever gets my cement mixer back to me, I'll get a pad poured and get my house tank up and painted.
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shameless dude
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Joined: 10 Apr 2017
Location: east NE
Points: 13607
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Posted: 13 Aug 2021 at 2:19am |
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i used some kinda tar stuff on an old grainery, went on black and was silver when it dried. has lasted about 20+ years so far, wish i knew what it was called. sorry.
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DiyDave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Gambrills, MD
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Posted: 13 Aug 2021 at 4:44am |
Fibrated aluminum asphalt paint. It goes on with a brush, never really dries, ends up kinda soft and tacky. If you sit on it, it'll turn your pants black... 
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24334
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Posted: 13 Aug 2021 at 5:33am |
No matter what 'paint' you put on the top (rain side) of a tin roof, it only slooows down the inevitable... Water(condensation) on the inside( bottom) continues to form rust, tin roof expands/contracts makes leaks at the nails..so more rust...and,sadly more water INSIDE to rot the wood....makes nails weaker, more movement,more water in, more rust, sigh...
kinda 'nature of the beast' thing.....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Stan IL&TN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
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Posted: 13 Aug 2021 at 8:15pm |
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Well I finished painting the barn in May. I tarted with washing it with TSP and then treated the few rust spots with a rust converter. The last step was painting it with an oil based aluminum paint. 14 gallons worth.
Told my sister that I won't be doing it again 10 years from now when it wIll need it again.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Stan IL&TN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
Points: 6730
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Posted: 13 Aug 2021 at 8:18pm |
 jaybmiller wrote:
No matter what 'paint' you put on the top (rain side) of a tin roof, it only slooows down the inevitable... Water(condensation) on the inside( bottom) continues to form rust, tin roof expands/contracts makes leaks at the nails..so more rust...and,sadly more water INSIDE to rot the wood....makes nails weaker, more movement,more water in, more rust, sigh...
kinda 'nature of the beast' thing.....
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Jay the inside tin still looks brand new and it was built in 1960. It is galvanized so that may have something to do with it?
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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Jasmyerine
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Joined: 27 May 2021
Location: UK
Points: 5
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Posted: 22 May 2023 at 11:00am |
I'm new here and excited to join the discussion. When it comes to metal roof paint, I'd like to suggest checking out Roofers in Port St Lucie. They have a website at https://www.theroofersofportstlucie.com/ that might be helpful. Although I personally often work with different kinds, this one seems more convenient to me so far. But you have to be careful when choosing and focus on your needs. Maybe some experienced members can chime in with their favorite metal roof paint recommendations?
Edited by Jasmyerine - 23 May 2023 at 7:46am
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Stephen12
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Joined: 30 May 2023
Location: London
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Posted: 30 May 2023 at 6:26am |
Hello everyone..I am also faced with the decision to paint my metal roof, but I am undecided on which choice to make. Did you find the right product? Could you share the type of paint you used? Googling I came across aroof-paint, but I'm not convinced yet. I have never painted my roof before, so I appreciate your advice in advance.
Edited by Stephen12 - 30 May 2023 at 6:33am
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BuckSkin
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Joined: 12 Sep 2019
Location: Poor Farm
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Posted: 30 May 2023 at 10:28am |
BEFORE you paint the roof, get up there with your screw gun and enough LONG SCREWS for every screw that is up there, screws long enough to penetrate the lathe.
Put one of these new screws between every screw that is up there, then, and only then, paint your roof.
In reality, you don't know which screws (or nails) might have had a few molecules of water seeping down their shanks and deteriorating their grip in the enlarged hole this has caused; this is why the wind gets under the edge of a sheet of roofing and soon peels it back.
By putting new screws centered between the existing ones, you have a fighting chance to be screwing into not-yet-rotted territory; and, by using long screws, you get a much more positive grip.
If you don't do this and decide two years later that a few screws need replacing, if the paint you used was any good to begin with, you will get up there crawling around, get glued to the roof, succumb to the heat, and dry out like a dead mouse.
Actually, best is to run new treated deck planks, plastic is even better, vertically, in the flats of the existing metal, about sixteen inches apart, bolts/nuts/and sheet-metal washers at top, bottom, and center, through the existing lathe, and plenty of long screws everywhere else.
To these, more deck planks running laterally, about sixteen inches apart; these are your new lathe to screw your new metal to === she won't leak now and new paint in the color of your choosing as well.
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