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WC head gasket
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Beinepw#69 View Drop Down
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Joined: 04 Aug 2020
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Points: 16 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Beinepw#69 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: WC head gasket
    Posted: 14 Aug 2020 at 8:50am
I need to replace a head gasket on my 1935 WC. There are two different style heads on the WC. I believe one is a 12 stud and the other is a 15 stud. Is there only one head gasket that works for both styles or are there two styles of gasket to chose from? Thanks.
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DrAllis View Drop Down
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Points: 21955 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 2020 at 6:59pm
I imagine all you will be able to buy is the 15 bolt gasket, as it will work with both 12 or 15 bolt blocks.  I would smear a thin layer (both sides of the gasket) of Hylomar sealer around the outside edge of the gasket and around all water holes and around the pushrod cavities. Install it dry and it will seep/weep everywhere.
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Rick of HopeIN View Drop Down
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Points: 1329 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick of HopeIN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2021 at 11:35am
I just had a head gasket coolant leak on 37 WC engine that I am putting back together.  When I filled radiator it immediately started seeping to outside on manifold side of gasket.  I applied only small amounts of Permatex 2 around the water passage areas before as I had done in the past on the B engine but that did not work this time.
I now see the WC needs some help.  Hylomar is not easy to find but I plan to order some and try starting over with a fresh gasket.  There is a spray can version but I plan to just use the stuff out of a tube as I usually do with Permatex 2.  
The gasket I had was from rebuild kit and the black fiber type with reinforcement rings only for the liners.  Since I am buying a new gasket I wondered if some are better quality?  I saw mention of that for a WD45 post but maybe that was a different gasket.
I have the original studs and going to 70 ft-lb.   
This leak sort of surprised me since I had the head off several times in the past and threw it back together with no issue.
I saw some comments that it may heal if it ran for a while but it seemed to seep so fast I hated to leave it.  This tractor will sit around a lot and I hate to have coolant getting inside to areas I can't see.  This engine has new liners so hoping the O rings sealed good.
The radiator core has a little leak also so I have some work to do.  Maybe some leaks that had been sealed with stop leak opened up when I was handling it for painting. 
I enjoy this site for reference from smart people, the 201 rebuild post is a great help as was the oil pan post.
1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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Alex09(WI) View Drop Down
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Points: 1751 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2021 at 12:26pm
The 12 bolt uses the 15 bolt gasket. I have experienced problems with the aftermarket head gaskets since November where they leak antifreeze even with using copper-cote sealer. Same thing as Rick happened to me. Head gasket started leaking antifreeze when I was filling radiator up! I compared these recent aftermarket head gaskets to the old one I had on hand and it is made different. There is supposed to be a narrow fire ring on the top of the gasket and a wide fire ring on the bottom of the gasket. These new aftermarket gaskets are made with the wide fire ring on both and are not made correctly! The one I had leak, I replaced with a correct pre-Nov aftermarket head gasket and it held, but I will only use OEM head gaskets from now on!
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Alex09(WI) View Drop Down
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Originally posted by Rick of HopeIN Rick of HopeIN wrote:

I just had a head gasket coolant leak on 37 WC engine that I am putting back together.  When I filled radiator it immediately started seeping to outside on manifold side of gasket.  I applied only small amounts of Permatex 2 around the water passage areas before as I had done in the past on the B engine but that did not work this time.
I now see the WC needs some help.  Hylomar is not easy to find but I plan to order some and try starting over with a fresh gasket.  There is a spray can version but I plan to just use the stuff out of a tube as I usually do with Permatex 2.  
The gasket I had was from rebuild kit and the black fiber type with reinforcement rings only for the liners.  Since I am buying a new gasket I wondered if some are better quality?  I saw mention of that for a WD45 post but maybe that was a different gasket.
I have the original studs and going to 70 ft-lb.   
This leak sort of surprised me since I had the head off several times in the past and threw it back together with no issue.
I saw some comments that it may heal if it ran for a while but it seemed to seep so fast I hated to leave it.  This tractor will sit around a lot and I hate to have coolant getting inside to areas I can't see.  This engine has new liners so hoping the O rings sealed good.
The radiator core has a little leak also so I have some work to do.  Maybe some leaks that had been sealed with stop leak opened up when I was handling it for painting. 
I enjoy this site for reference from smart people, the 201 rebuild post is a great help as was the oil pan post.

Rick, I see you have new sleeves. You may want to check that the sleeve standout is not more than .003". The new 4 1/8" aftermarket sleeves you get nowdays are not machined right and have too much standout making the problem worse. I would try an OEM head gasket from your local Allis-Gleaner Co dealer or I can help you with a gasket since I stock them now.
www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
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Rick of HopeIN View Drop Down
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Points: 1329 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick of HopeIN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 2021 at 12:39pm
Yes, I will try an OEM gasket and check liner standout again.  I usually go to Brenda at Sandy Lake for my Allis parts.
1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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Rick of HopeIN View Drop Down
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Points: 1329 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rick of HopeIN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Aug 2021 at 7:18pm
I forgot to update this post.  I ended up filing down the liner to get about .003 protrusion and that worked.  The new liners were about .005 in when I started.
1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless
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Alex09(WI) View Drop Down
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Points: 1751 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 2021 at 1:21pm
Yup, I just installed a 4 1/8" kit in another tractor here and sure enough the sleeve flange was still too tall. Flange spec is .245-.246, the aftermarket sleeves speced out at .250! I had them machined down .003 and then they were all within the .000-.003 standout spec.

It also doesn't help that most of these blocks are sunk in the middle. Usually .002-.005" low between cylinders 2 and 3.
www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
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