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ACinSC 
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Location: South Carolina
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 Topic: D 15 alt
Posted: 25 Jan 2021 at 2:51pm |
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My old D 15 had an alt installed when I bought it a few years ago . Gauge needle ticks like a clock at idle . Must be charging ok as it always starts . It's a delco remy 1103103 63A 9J18 if that means anything ? The biggest wire goes to the BAT post . Smallest wire goes to #1 post on back of alt . Medium size wire is cut off and taped up . Should I try the loose wire on the #2 post ? Sorry for the long post . THANKS !!
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 25 Jan 2021 at 5:33pm |
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Styeve in NJ will KNOW for sure, I'm thinking a 63Amp alternator ? Sounds like it's 'self wired' so no 'idiot light' or diode or resistor...,call it the 'economy' version of installation....
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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steve(ill)
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Location: illinois
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Posted: 25 Jan 2021 at 5:33pm |
the "63A" is 63 amps... so you probably have the old DELCO 10SI alternator. The two terminals on the back are spade terminals on the edge of the case... The #2 is a HOT wire and can be connected to the BIG LUG.. The #1 wire is the EXCITATION wire and needs to be a little less than 12 volts to signal the alternator to start charging.. Some guys use a small idiot light, some use a diode.. I prefer to use a small resistor to drop the voltage. Also this stops feedback so the motor dont continue to run off the alternator when you turn off the ignition switch.
I get the resistors at RAdio Shack... about 1/4 inch square and 2 inches long.. Just crimp spade terminals on each end and connect.
Edited by steve(ill) - 25 Jan 2021 at 5:35pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021 at 10:47am |
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Thanks Jay , I'm happy it does work . Ticking gauge just annoys me . Guess I shouldn't have bought a new gauge ? Thanks Steve , I'll see what I can figure out . My alt is just like you described .
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021 at 12:37pm |
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the ticking might be the voltage regulator cutting in and out... you have no reference voltage to keep it stable.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021 at 2:38pm |
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Needle is steady at very low rpm . Bounces fast with increased engine rpm . THANKS !
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021 at 2:43pm |
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so its a vibration problem ? Not actual current input ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021 at 3:11pm |
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Pretty sure it's a current problem , not vibration . THANKS !
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021 at 3:28pm |
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i think connecting the #1 and #2 wires might help... make sure there is a resistor or something in the excitation line.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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ACinSC
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021 at 3:55pm |
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Okay I'll see if I can wire it up like your diagram . Thanks !!
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021 at 5:53pm |
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If the alternator is sensing itself and not the actual battery, I can see it 'ticking'(charge-nocharge,charge-nocharge). By sensing the actual battery,it'll smoooth out the charge - nocharge cycling of the regulator.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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ACinSC
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021 at 6:21pm |
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Thanks Jay . I'll see if I can figure it out .
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Eric B
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Posted: 26 Jan 2021 at 9:29pm |
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It's one thing if you want everything to be original on older tractors but for myself whenever I'm upgrading charging systems I install a voltmeter instead of the ammeter (wired differently). This way you don't need to be watching the needle bouncing back and forth. As long as the voltmeter is between 13.6 V to 15.5 v, you know you're in the good for supply, slow idle will be around 12.5.
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Currently- WD,WC,3WF's,2 D14's B. Previously- I 600,TL745,200,FL9,FR12,H3,816 LBH. Earth has no sorrow that Heaven cannot heal!
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ACinSC
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Posted: 27 Jan 2021 at 6:32am |
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Thanks Eric . I'm not too concerned about looks , just like for things to work . Something else to consider .
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 27 Jan 2021 at 7:50am |
Normal charging range is 13.9-14.5. Anything below 13.9 and above 14.5 volts the system should be looked at. Ideal charging with everything on board working properly is 14.2V. Even at a lower idle, charging should still be around 14.0. Always make sure the Alternator is properly grounded. Sometimes when the Alternator's mounting brackets are heavily painted, a ground at the Alternator's case is compromised. That can cause your "ticking". The Alt is probably searchin' for a ground. In my 12V conversion systems, I install an aux. ground strap on the Alternator (complete kits) to insure the Alt is grounded.... HTH Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 27 Jan 2021 at 7:56am |
I knew if we waited long enough Steve would have THE answer......
I also know adding a separte ground from -ve battery to engine case of a 'rider' make s the starter 'happy'.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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ACinSC
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Posted: 27 Jan 2021 at 8:20am |
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Thanks Steve . Can I just run a ground wire from the alt base to the engine block ?
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Steve in NJ
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Posted: 27 Jan 2021 at 9:16am |
"SI" series Delco's (if thats what your have) have a threaded grounding boss at the rear of the unit. Go from there to a good chassis or engine ground. You should be good to go. Just make sure the aux. ground you install is in fact a good clean ground. If it still makes the ticking noise, it could possibly be a faulty VR. I wouldn't rule out the Ammeter could be on its way out also. I would suggest installing a Voltmeter in lieu of the Ammeter for an accurate charging rating. A 65 amp Alternator on a small "D" series Tractor is childs play for that Alternator. When I build my 12V conversion systems for the "D" series Tractors, I bring the #2 circuit (voltage sensing circuit) up with the output current lead and mate the two together at the plus (+) side of the Voltmeter. This way, the voltage sense circuit can monitor current usage at the dash being the "D" series Tractors have more going on at the dash than the earlier Tractors equipped with just Headlights and a Tail lamp. A jumper lead from the IGN. post of the key switch over to the Voltmeter plus (+) side will complete the charging loop. When voltage is monitored at the dash, the VR will regulate the voltage required to make the system happy as well as the Battery. The system should have approx. 14V's throughout the system. When current fluctuates at the dash, the VR will sense the fluctuation and ramp the Alternator up a tic to compensate for any loads that go on in the system. (ie- Headlights, flood lamps etc. ) As I mentioned earlier, even at an idle of 450 rpms or higher, the Voltmeter should still be reading around 13.9-14.2 volts. HTH Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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ACinSC
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Posted: 27 Jan 2021 at 10:20am |
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Thanks Steve . I pulled the alt . Have no threaded stud for ground but do have a 5/16 threaded hole on the back . Gonna put a short bolt in and hook a ground wire to it and see what happens . A good rainy day project . Thanks everyone
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ACinSC
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Posted: 27 Jan 2021 at 11:41am |
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Ground wire didn't change anything . Oh well , if it bothers me too much I'll get a new alt from Steve . I'm sure he can walk me thru wiring it up right . Thanks everyone for your help .
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