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TMiller/NC 
Orange Level Access
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lenoir, NC
Points: 1776
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 Topic: Valve grinding
Posted: 03 Dec 2020 at 6:05pm |
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Was gifted an Allis B with the head off, appears to need the valve seats and valves ground, do you fellows repair heads yourselves or send them out. The last one I sent out 5 yrs or so ago cost $180, would like to hold the expense down on this tractor, as I know of other work it needs. Thanks, Tim
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 89131
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Posted: 03 Dec 2020 at 6:10pm |
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you could try lapping and see what it looks like.. Maybe dont need recut... If you dont have a lapping tool, i have used a 1/4 inch rubber gas line pushed over the valve stem, the a 1/4 inch stud in a hand drill and push the hose over it. put lapping / grinding paste on the valve, oil the stem, push in the hole and connect to the drill..... bump it slowly so it rotates and grinds/ laps the seat... you dont want to go FAST or run the stem dry of oil... Do it slowly for 2-3 minutes and inspect you work........ Its not rocket science, just a slow speed, low HP motor.. Dont have to be perfect, if your on a budget.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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TMiller/NC
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lenoir, NC
Points: 1776
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Posted: 03 Dec 2020 at 6:41pm |
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Thanks Steve, I'll try that, the #4 exh is pitted so may take some time on it. Tim
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 89131
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Posted: 03 Dec 2020 at 7:08pm |
some will tell you that you cant do it this way. I dont think i would do a high HP truck and want it to last 250,000 miles, but thats not what your building... Go to the hardware store and get some COURSE grinding compound and do that.. You might spend a half hour on a BAD valve.. Just go SLOW and keep oil on the stem.. You will be able to tell after a few minutes if the seat it trashed to the point that it will never cleanup.
Edited by steve(ill) - 03 Dec 2020 at 7:19pm
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Krazy Karl
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Joined: 12 Sep 2011
Location: SE MN
Points: 203
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Posted: 03 Dec 2020 at 7:27pm |
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Check the head to see that is flat and that it doesn't need to machined. Before doing all that work. If have to send off for that
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MACK
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Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Points: 7664
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Posted: 03 Dec 2020 at 8:57pm |
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Just tighten the chuck to valve stem . No need to mess with a Rubber hose that will twist and come off. MACK
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ac fleet
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Joined: 12 Jan 2014
Location: Arrowsmith, ILL
Points: 2337
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Posted: 04 Dec 2020 at 9:53am |
x-2 on chuckin the stems in drill! -- done many that way in a hurry. I now have an old grinder so I run them thru it now.
Head grinding is the other problem!
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http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/
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jlbintn
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Joined: 28 Nov 2019
Location: Charleston, TN
Points: 138
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Posted: 04 Dec 2020 at 11:23am |
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I don't have the expertise, or the tools, to do it myself. I sent my head to a shop, seven weeks and $276 later, it's good to go. The valve kit was another $120, so almost $400 into the whole repair, but it's done.
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HoughMade
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Joined: 22 Sep 2017
Location: Valparaiso, IN
Points: 714
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Posted: 04 Dec 2020 at 2:28pm |
I lapped the ever-lovin' bejeebers out of my B's valves, most especially from the 2 cyliders which had rusted and locked up the engine. I figured I would try to get it running and if needed a real rebuild, I would cross that road when I got to it.
Well, 3 years later, she's still running like a champ. No rebuild yet.
I wish I had pictures of the "before" lapping. There was slight pitting on the seats for one cylinder (both valves) and moderate pitting in the other cylinder, but both seal up and make decent compression.
[TUBE]kv-HXI-r3eM[/TUBE]
Edited by HoughMade - 04 Dec 2020 at 2:31pm
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1951 B
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 89131
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Posted: 04 Dec 2020 at 3:49pm |
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YEP... your not building a race car.. Just the basics and it will run fine !
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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