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NE GA Allis 
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Joined: 17 Feb 2019
Location: Georgia
Points: 139
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 Topic: WD/WD45 Final drive
Posted: 18 May 2020 at 4:13pm |
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I’m starting this thread to see what other members have done on their WD or WD45 Final Drives for the outer pinion shaft bearing cup. I did not see another thread listed on this forum. The Allis part number is 217567 and the cross reference is 14299. The cheapest I have found it so far has been $418. Has anyone found another option? Or does everyone bite the bullet and pay the big money?
What surprises me most is that I thought the WD and D17 final drives were just about the same but maybe judging a book by its cover is not always best. The D17 has different bearings.
What has everyone else done? In my experience rebuilding final drives is that every bearing has needed replaced because of wear or rust pits. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
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Keeping Allis alive with:
2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s,
1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 80828
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 4:24pm |
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I have no experience with the WD45 final, but AC did NOT make bearings... They were purchased OFF THE SHELF from Bearing Vendors. I would "assume" you can buy that bearing from any bearing house... Look at the RACE or the BEARING and see if there is a FAG or TIMKEN number.. Then you can order that on line.. Dont look at AC for the bearing.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 80828
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 4:57pm |
The 14299 is a Timken number. I checked on line and you are right, the outer cup is out of production.. There are very few on line and they cost hundreds of dollars... If your cup looks half way decent, i would use it with a new BEARING CONE.
In general bearings cones are made to fit an ID, lets say 1.50 inch... Then they have a variety of outer CUPS to fit the OD bore.. You can get a cup that is 2.75 inch 2.9 inch 3.1 inch... etc... I dont know for certain, but YOUR SIZE appears to be an odd ball that Allis used and is now GONE... Possibly if you need something like a 3.1 inch, you could buy the 2.9 inch and have a SLEEVE to adapt to the larger hole ? I would ask the local bearing house about that, IF YOU REALLY NEED ONE.... Again, if your present CUP looks half way decent, i would reuse.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 80828
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 5:01pm |
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OR, it is possible that you get an entirely different cup / cone that does fit the OD bore. and the ID of the CONE is too big for the shaft... Then have a sleeve made and press onto the shaft to adapt the new bearing... This can be done by looking in a Bearing Spec Book that has all the numbers / ID/ OD, etc ..... the Bearing House should have that, i dont.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Dave76
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Joined: 26 Mar 2015
Location: Hebron Illinois
Points: 72
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 8:20pm |
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I ran into the same problem, real expensive bearings, went to a salvage yard and found some real good bearings for not much money.
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PaulB
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Rocky Ridge Md
Points: 4707
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 8:25pm |
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I may have those numbers in NOS. Send me a PM.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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garden_guy
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Joined: 05 Jul 2013
Location: Illinois
Points: 1133
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 10:26pm |
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What's the best check to see if your final drive bearings are toast and need replaced, short of tearing stuff apart to look at it?
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
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Posted: 18 May 2020 at 10:54pm |
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excessive noise or wobble ? ...... dirty oil ?
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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NE GA Allis
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Joined: 17 Feb 2019
Location: Georgia
Points: 139
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Posted: 19 May 2020 at 5:55am |
 garden_guy wrote:
What's the best check to see if your final drive bearings are toast and need replaced, short of tearing stuff apart to look at it?
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In my experience, I have usually torn them down because they were already locked up or luckily locked up after use without spinning the bearings. Next sign is usually there can be clunking sounds or a grinding sound. And of course as steve said, wobble of the shafts is a tell tale sign of at least tearing down and checking the bearings for wear. If the bearings are smooth with no divots, then you just have to remove shims.
My opinion though is most of the time the seals need to be replaced and at that point you have to check the bearings anyway. If you are restoring or rebuilding a tractor I believe it’s best not to cut corners. Especially if you do, then you might have to tear something down after you had the tractor all back together.
After building better pulling tools, rebuilding the final drives are not too bad, the hardest part I found was getting them to stay still while your pulling them apart or putting them back together. I’m thinking about building some adapters to bolt onto the drives that will allow me to get them on my engine stand.
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Keeping Allis alive with:
2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s,
1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17
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Lon(MN)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Elk River,MN
Points: 1965
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Posted: 19 May 2020 at 7:28am |
I have lots of good used ones on the shelf
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Points: 20398
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Posted: 24 May 2020 at 9:42pm |
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Interesting thread. I see the brg cup you are referring to is the upper bull pinion shaft cup of which there are two. The older D-17 cup is 70227678 and lists at $14. Its mating cone is 70222214 and retails at $22. I have no idea if they would interchange or not. There is a chance that D-17 parts (cup and cone) could work if replaced together. Here's what I do know: in growing up on three WD45's and a 53 WD as a kid and then working for AC dealerships and then on my own for a total of 55 years, I have never seen one of those upper pinion bearings ever fail. I have seen the lower axle brgs fail, some from old age and hard work and others from being run out of oil, but even all of those I can still count on one hand how many there were. Just tearing them apart to inspect them can easily lead to condemning them, when in all reality, they would run many more decades not doing the hard work they did when they were much newer. I've never replaced an upper seal EVER !! Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
Edited by DrAllis - 24 May 2020 at 9:53pm
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NE GA Allis
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Joined: 17 Feb 2019
Location: Georgia
Points: 139
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Posted: 25 May 2020 at 2:02pm |
DrAllis wrote:
Interesting thread. I see the brg cup you are referring to is the upper bull pinion shaft cup of which there are two. The older D-17 cup is 70227678 and lists at $14. Its mating cone is 70222214 and retails at $22. I have no idea if they would interchange or not. There is a chance that D-17 parts (cup and cone) could work if replaced together. Here's what I do know: in growing up on three WD45's and a 53 WD as a kid and then working for AC dealerships and then on my own for a total of 55 years, I have never seen one of those upper pinion bearings ever fail. I have seen the lower axle brgs fail, some from old age and hard work and others from being run out of oil, but even all of those I can still count on one hand how many there were. Just tearing them apart to inspect them can easily lead to condemning them, when in all reality, they would run many more decades not doing the hard work they did when they were much newer. I've never replaced an upper seal EVER !! Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
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Thanks for the good news on the bearings potentially being good! In all the final drives I have torn down, the bearings on either pinion and bull gear shaft, have been rusted or had some fairly deep pitting. Most of the final drives have been B, C, and CA but the one WD may have been bad because the bull gear cap had been off. I checked out the D17 bearings and what I found out is that the D17 pinion shaft is 1.5” in diameter, while the WDs had a 1.38” diameter pinion shaft. The smaller cone and shaft needed to have that thick cup while the larger D17 shaft and cone made it possible to have a more standard cup. I may see about making some sleeves to put around a more standard bearing cup for the top bearings if I need to replace them. Thanks
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Keeping Allis alive with:
2 B’s, 1 C, 6 CA’s, 2 WD’s,
1 WD45, 3 D15D’s, 1 D17
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steve(ill)
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: illinois
Points: 80828
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Posted: 25 May 2020 at 3:29pm |
D17 pinion shaft is 1.5” in diameter, while the WDs had a 1.38” diameter pinion shaft. The smaller cone and shaft needed to have that thick cup while the larger D17 shaft and cone made it possible to have a more standard cup.
I may see about making some sleeves to put around a more standard bearing cup for the top bearings if I need to replace them.
YEP... that would be a great fix... and save a lot of money !
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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SteveM C/IL
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Shelbyville IL
Points: 8218
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Posted: 25 May 2020 at 10:24pm |
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My 45 was noisy in 4th traveling at half throttle and it came from the outside upper side. Pulled final apart and the top shaft brg race was really pitted/flaked,just nasty. fixed all that and been good every since. Now this tractors has set for extended period before I got it and I believe that was a factor. The upper part of ring gear and top shaft trans gears are rust pitted on level above oil line.
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