Grader hub removal M65

I need to remove the rear hubs on my M65 grader. What is the best way to do that? The DD should be the same.

I want to get my brakes working again.

If you have threaded holes on each side of the retaining nut you can make a heavy screw puller to suit.  Tighten as much as you can - this likely won't pop the drum.

Then give the end of the screw a flog or two with a EFBH - sledge of at least 14 pounds and better 28 if you can find one.

Hello Ian,

Now I know why I saw one where the hub had been heated with a torch at one time.

I think I'll maybe round up a hydraulic pancake cylinder and make a puller bar. I ran a tap in those threaded holes today.

I guess I'll have to back off on the brake adjuster first, which looks like a giant pain to try to get at.

Got to get that 2 1/4" nut off before that.

I had to tighten the puller nuts down to 600 lb/ft and then heat the hub a little with the torch on two of them and they popped loose with a loud boom. The other two weren't that tight.

I found a new master cylinder at NAPA after finding the Bendix number on the old one for $130. I found the Bendix (now Raytheon) wheel cylinders from Carquest for $32 apiece. I built all new brake lines out of Cu/Ni brake lines from Carquest for about $50 total (7 pieces of 5' length). That was a learning experience but found out you can make templates out of baling wire for each line. I still screwed up several pieces, but I was a master at the end. I had to get new flexible brake lines made at Tubes N Hoses in Waco, TX who had the obsolete fittings in stock and made them while I waited for about 30 minutes. I love Mom and Pop shops. They only cost $35 apiece...I would have paid a lot more than that! I got my brake pads rebuilt at Brake and Clutch Supply in Lorena, TX for $40 each. He also did a fantastic job. Got to keep those Mom and Pop shops in business.

Being able to stop when I want...Priceless!