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190XT splitting stand |
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youngorange2000 ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 27 Mar 2019 Location: eastcentral MN Points: 314 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 26 Feb 2020 at 11:06am |
I am looking for advice on what to do about a splitting stand for my 190xt. I will be splitting it at the rear of the torque tube/front of the transmission my plan is to roll the rear of the reactor back with the rear wheels on. Thanks
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24336 |
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Any chance you've got an overhead steel I beam ? That makes it easy, well, easier.... Put tractor under beam, parallel to beam. Use chain hoists to lift then use solid wook blocking. When rolling rear, 1 guy per wheel, otherwise it'll go 'funny'... Be sure to block the steeringtierod ends !
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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DanWi ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: wttn Points: 1900 |
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For the front end which you are not moving block each side by the front axle pivot so the motor doesn't tip then support under the bell housing using blocks with a jack or we used a screw jack so you can adjust when removing and installing. next you have to support the platform that is where the overhead works the best then you loosen the rear from the front I believe the rear end when rolled back is heavy to the back we put a floor jack under the back drawbar, I would put blocks in front and behind it so it can't tip either way. If you are good with some angle iron and tubing and threaded rod and some wheels you could make something up. Just depends on what you bolt to to do a complete tear down. In the end you you have to support the housing. Just to give you some idea when I rolled the front away on the 200 to work on the motor we used the cherry picker to support it then i needed the cherry picker to remove the motor so to support the front away from the tractor two 2x4s drilled holes and bolted to the ends of the frame rails fast simple cheap stands.
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cabinhollow ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 24 Mar 2018 Location: SEKY Points: 327 |
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I cut most of the parts out for some a few years ago to build one of these.
It is two parts, with four jacks. I don't know if he very got it made. |
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blue924.9 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Mar 2013 Location: George Iowa Points: 1086 |
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That looks identical to the splitting stands used when I worked for john deere. Not familiar with a 190 but if there are any places you could bolt plate steel to and weld a wheeled jack to the plate that works real slick to. On the deeres you could either use the pictured splitting stand on the rear and plate jacks on the front or block the rear and plate jack the front and roll it away
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hi my names dan, I am a young guy. i have a problem, i prefer my tractors orange and my clutches mechanical, thanks for letting me share
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NEVER green ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 28 Feb 2013 Location: MN. Points: 8180 |
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I used two leveling jacks for scaffolding then welded swiveling heavy duty wheels on the bottom. Found a length of pipe to slip over so they are adjustable, welded pipe to angle iron for bolting to side rails, drill out hole for another angle iron to brace it at a 45 to the front of side rail. Get another angle to tie the bottom of jacks together under the tractor, welded some tabs on and bolted them together. Worked great on 7000and 8000 tractors. |
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2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50
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NEVER green ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 28 Feb 2013 Location: MN. Points: 8180 |
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I reread you post, why roll the rear end of the tractor? Its much easier to roll the front. |
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2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50
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DanWi ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 18 Sep 2009 Location: wttn Points: 1900 |
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NEVER green ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 28 Feb 2013 Location: MN. Points: 8180 |
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Got ya, have the 8000 on my mind. |
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2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040 R50
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21360 |
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For a one-time split, you don't need much. Block both front wheels front & back so it cannot roll. Block the front axle so it cannot pivot one bit left or right. A trusted/no leak down bottle jack (or a screw jack) placed on top of a tall solid base underneath the torque housing right close to where you intend to split the tractor. A short 2 x 4 between the bottle jack nose and the torque tube would be smart. Your biggest issue is raising the platform and holding it up so you can roll the rear end away. Once the rear end is rolled 10 ft back, you'll need to raise it up and block it so the rear wheels are off the ground 3 inches. When rolling the rear end away, an 1 3/8" pipe four feet long stuck on the PTO shaft is your good way to control the whole assembly. One man on each rear wheel and one man on the pipe.
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oldways ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 25 Apr 2013 Location: west Ky Points: 509 |
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1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV
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oldways ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 25 Apr 2013 Location: west Ky Points: 509 |
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I have split three 190's a "B" and a WC with these stands. work like a dream, safe, easy one man job.
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1 Corinthians 1:18 1969-190xt-III. 1966 190xt gas. 1966 190xt Cab. 1948-G. 1937-WC unstyled. 1950-B. 1951-CA. 1966-D17-IV
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