1968 D10 Overheating

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

Hello all! 
I own a 1968 Allis Chalmers D 10 Series 3.  I recenty have been having problems with her overheating on me.  I went to a plow days and she ran fine.  I replaced the points, condensor and rotor.  Had this tuned up and she ran fine.  Then about 2 months later I took her to a show in Crawford Ohio.  I went in the parade and the temperature hit 225 degrees.  I obviously stopped and let her cool down.  Thinking it was a minor fluck I added some water and went to the next show.  She overheated again.  I then replaced the thermostat ( a 190 opening ) with a 160 opening.  She still overheated.  When I bougt the next thermostat I flushed the system ran her with out a thermo and she ran about 180 for about 20 minutes. I then put the new thermostat in and she heated up again.  I talked to a buddy and he noticed that my Fan blade/Water pump bearings were going out ant thus my problem.  I bought a replacement (new) pump and installed it.  I flushed the system and put in a 3rd thermostat (160).  I took her to another parade and show later in the fall and she did not "overheat" and lose power, but ran abotu 215.  I know they are supposed to run at 190 or less.  The radiator is newly replaced 3 years ago.  Many thermostats ( ones from napa)  and a water pump were put in as well.  I flusehd it many times and run a rough 50/50 mix.  The bypass works.  I took a laser thermometer to the lead of the temp guage and it measured accurate within 5 degrees. I have about ran out of ideas of what it wrong.  Any help or hints would be great!!!  I have posted on here  ( the old site ) many times and have had great luck, you all are a good group.   If you have any questions about what I have, or have done please ask!!  

Thanks again,
Kevin 

Edited by KD8NGV - 03 Oct 2010 at 9:29pm

	This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
	The Forum	Parts and Services	Unofficial Allis Store	Tractor Shows	Serial Numbers	History

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
KD8NGV Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Oct 2010 Location: Ohio Points: 178	Post Options Post Reply Quote KD8NGV Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: 1968 D10 Overheating Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 9:29pm
	Hello all! I own a 1968 Allis Chalmers D 10 Series 3. I recenty have been having problems with her overheating on me. I went to a plow days and she ran fine. I replaced the points, condensor and rotor. Had this tuned up and she ran fine. Then about 2 months later I took her to a show in Crawford Ohio. I went in the parade and the temperature hit 225 degrees. I obviously stopped and let her cool down. Thinking it was a minor fluck I added some water and went to the next show. She overheated again. I then replaced the thermostat ( a 190 opening ) with a 160 opening. She still overheated. When I bougt the next thermostat I flushed the system ran her with out a thermo and she ran about 180 for about 20 minutes. I then put the new thermostat in and she heated up again. I talked to a buddy and he noticed that my Fan blade/Water pump bearings were going out ant thus my problem. I bought a replacement (new) pump and installed it. I flushed the system and put in a 3rd thermostat (160). I took her to another parade and show later in the fall and she did not "overheat" and lose power, but ran abotu 215. I know they are supposed to run at 190 or less. The radiator is newly replaced 3 years ago. Many thermostats ( ones from napa) and a water pump were put in as well. I flusehd it many times and run a rough 50/50 mix. The bypass works. I took a laser thermometer to the lead of the temp guage and it measured accurate within 5 degrees. I have about ran out of ideas of what it wrong. Any help or hints would be great!!! I have posted on here ( the old site ) many times and have had great luck, you all are a good group. If you have any questions about what I have, or have done please ask!! Thanks again, Kevin Edited by KD8NGV - 03 Oct 2010 at 9:29pm

Sponsored Links

DSeries4 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7570	Post Options Post Reply Quote DSeries4 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 10:25pm
	Couple of things to check out... Exact 50/50 water antifreeze mixture is best - too much antifreeze will make it run hot. Your rad has been flushed, but has the dust and dirt been blown out of the fins? Might also want to check out your rad cap.

firebrick43 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 10 Dec 2009 Location: Warren County Points: 592	Post Options Post Reply Quote firebrick43 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Oct 2010 at 10:26pm
	Do the thermostats have a hole drilled in them?

KD8NGV Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Oct 2010 Location: Ohio Points: 178	Post Options Post Reply Quote KD8NGV Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 12:54pm
	Firebrick43: Yes my thermostat does have two holes drilled in it. That way if it comes out of its "holder" it will allow the bypass to flow water thru. I would say it is about 1/16 to 1/8 in size. DSeries 4: The dust and dirt has been blown out. There really was none in there. I can see through all of the fins perfectly. The radiator cap is original to the tractor ( I think. It has less than 650 hrs) The seal is good and the spring is strong.

Dave(inMA) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Grafton, MA Points: 2399	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dave(inMA) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 2:49pm
	Kevin, it sounds like you are doing all the right things.....though I do wonder about that radiator cap. I know zip about D10's but I imagine it wants to run a pressurized cooling system - just maybe that cap that looks okay isn't. Good luck - and welcome to the Forum!
	WC, CA, D14, WD45

Brian Jasper co. Ia Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508	Post Options Post Reply Quote Brian Jasper co. Ia Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 3:09pm
	I have seen situations where a defective radiator cap has caused overheating, but I doubt that is the case here. If it still runs hot, I would make sure that the water is able to flow and the fan belt is tight and not slipping. My CA doesn't have a thermostat in it (I just use the shutters) and I can see the water circulate with the cap off. If you can see the water circulate at a good clip too, I'd be thinking leaking head gasket or maybe a cracked head. You could look under the valve cover. If there is plenty of milky looking "snot" on the cover, good chance the head gasket is leaking.
	"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Larry Miller Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: NWIL Points: 909	Post Options Post Reply Quote Larry Miller Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 6:24pm
	I have a D 10 that overheated without all the problems you describe. Flushed several times with no help. The radiator was just too plugged up and would not flush out the crap. Maybe a cheaper fix but I put on a new radiator and problem was solved.
	I used to be young and stupid, now I am not young anymore.

Tracy Martin TN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gallatin,TN Points: 10870	Post Options Post Reply Quote Tracy Martin TN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 6:28pm
	Engine timing and fuel mix ratio can cause overheating. HTH Tracy Martin

Rick of HopeIN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Hope, Indiana Points: 1329	Post Options Post Reply Quote Rick of HopeIN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Oct 2010 at 7:36pm
	Sounds like you did make sure to verify it is really hot with a separate temp probe. I chased a problem on my daughters car for a month and found it was a dash circuit problem, the engine was not really overheating. I missed that when I read your post before. Edited by Rick of HopeIN - 04 Oct 2010 at 8:33pm
	1951 B, 1937 WC, 1957 D14, -- Thanks and God Bless

KD8NGV Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 03 Oct 2010 Location: Ohio Points: 178	Post Options Post Reply Quote KD8NGV Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Dec 2010 at 10:04am
	To Dave: Thanks, and I am glad to have joined the forum. I have posted in the old one before, however this is my first in this new one. To Tracy: This was the cause! I had it running way too lean. I adjusted it and it went back to running a consistent 180! To All: Thanks for all of your suggestions! They all helped em solve this problem!! Thanks, Kevin