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Larry Miller 
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: NWIL
Points: 909
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 Topic: carb advice
Posted: 06 Jan 2020 at 4:51pm |
I have a D 10 carb - pretty simple - idle and load adjustment - I can't seem to clean or blow out the problem - so kit - I don't want to cause a bigger problem by twisting off the brass jets - can I heat and try to remove or just take it to a guy that has the tools and know how to fix it?
Miller
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I used to be young and stupid, now I am not young anymore.
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24658
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Posted: 06 Jan 2020 at 4:59pm |
I would not heat them , can make he brass soft and oopsy....busted when trying to unscrew them. I've always used spreay brake cleaner with a 'straw' to concentrate,soften and blast away built up 'varnish'. I also use dentil picks and/or oxy/act tip cleaners to open up jet 'holes'. If you do want to unscrew the jets buy or make TIGHT fitting slotted screwdrivers !! ANY slop will chew away the soft brass. I tend to push down to keep the end of the screwdriver IN the jet. If you can put carb in vice,well secured, tap screwdriver couple of times, before trying to remove jet. Others may chime in with their method but #1 is PATIENCE !
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8486
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Posted: 06 Jan 2020 at 7:35pm |
Larry, Is there a chance you can describe the "problem"? I am not a expert on these at all. But it sounds like you have done some cleaning of the carb. I assume you have split the top from the bottom, which means you can see the brass orifices. If they are open they are probably ok. Other passages that mys be clogged could be probed with a wire/ air/ carb cleaner with nozzle. Kits are from just gaskets to include brass orifices and also seals. One area that you may not have looked at yet are the seals around shafts for both the throttle and the choke. These are not the easiest to change and sometimes are not in some kits. A good check is to wiggle the shafts and see if there is some slop. A indication of either wear or the need for seals in these areas. A carb expert like Steve at B&B would be able to get the carb back to spec. Sometimes these carbs have some items that may not be assembled correctly too. Dr Allis and Steve both mention some things to look for in the thread I started on the WD45 carb rebuild thread. Hope something in here helps. (I am cheap and will rebuild a screw driver before I go buy a new one. I see some of these new carbs at $300 plus) Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 06 Jan 2020 at 7:36pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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WF owner
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Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 5020
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Posted: 07 Jan 2020 at 4:41am |
In the past, Dick L (who is a very respected mechanic who participates in this forum) has told us that he boils the carburetor as part of his rebuilding process.
Yesterday, for the first time, I tried his idea. I removed the float, needle valve, venturi and gasket, then I put the top and bowl in a 8 quart kettle (an old kettle my wife gave me). For some reason, she wouldn't let me use the kitchen stove, so I found the hot plate we used when we renovating the kitchen last spring. Per Dick's instructions, I used laundry detergent (and of course I used too much - MESS !). I boiled it for a little over 30 minutes, then let it cool. As soon as I could handle it, I put it on the bench and removed all the brass fittings. I was amazed how easy they came out !
Edit: I am thinking of using non-sudsing dishwasher detergent next time.
Today I plan to soak it in carb cleaner (again at Dick's direction), rinse it and hand clean all the passages.
Try it. It works!!!
Edited by WF owner - 07 Jan 2020 at 4:46am
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Larry Miller
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Joined: 21 Nov 2009
Location: NWIL
Points: 909
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Posted: 07 Jan 2020 at 7:48am |
I have been in the carb and used carb cleaner, tip cleaners in all the holes I could see, and blow all out w air hose. Did this 2 or 3 times. No change. I get some firing and can keep the engine running if I squirt gas or starter fluid in the carb. I suspect varnish as this tractor has ran great in the past but has set for a long time too.
I like the boiling idea and will try that.
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I used to be young and stupid, now I am not young anymore.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8486
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Posted: 07 Jan 2020 at 8:02am |
Larry, You probably have the carb off and ready to boil. Which I think is a great idea! I assume you have checked for fuel flow through the tank/ sediment bowl/ line/ carb? If you have a drain on the bottom? I had a WD that would only run with gas sprayed in the carb. I believe I found that the needle valve was sticking closed. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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WF owner
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Joined: 12 May 2013
Location: Bombay NY
Points: 5020
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Posted: 07 Jan 2020 at 10:49am |
Below is the a link to the procedure Dick L uses for cleaning/rebuilding a carburetor. I would rather have you get his advice from the horses mouth (rather than the other end!!!).
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