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Lighting Electrical Gremlins |
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Johnwilson_osf
Orange Level Joined: 29 Jul 2012 Location: Mount Bethel PA Points: 926 |
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Posted: 10 Dec 2019 at 3:34pm |
Greetings all,
I am curious if anyone might give me some pointers on solving a lighting problem. I have a Kenworth T300 that I lost marker lights on. I have blinkers, head lights and brake lights. I have looked in the fuse panel, and the fuse for the marker lights is intact. I swapped in a new fuse just to verify. In addition, the relay for the marker lights is functional, as I swapped one from another position and both relays worked in the other location. I have gone around and looked at all the wiring that is not in a wire loom that is related to the marker lights, and I cannot see any breaks or rubs. All my marker lights are traditional Grote amber lights, and they are incandescent, not LED. Can I have a christmas lights problem here, where one light is out and the entire string goes out? Should I be looking at connections inside the bulb housings? Is there a way to test if my switch in the cab is good? Is there something else I am not even imagining? Thank you all for your help. John
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Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2 |
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 21609 |
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NOT old skool xmas lights , all are in parallel, so all or nothing suggests a break in the circuit 'somewhere' between switch and the first or closest light bulb. I'm thinking the switch may be bad (open). Simple test, you'll need small 12V battery and 2 alligator test leads... 1) turn switch OFF( actually whole truck can be off ) 2) remove light bulb from ONE running light unit. 3) put one test from ground to battery -ve 4) put other on +ve post and carefully put other end on where the 'center contact' of the bulb would go. If done right, a small spark will occour and all the other running lights will be on. This verifies all the lights and 99% of the wiring is GOOD. Only thing left is the switch. Odds are you've flipped that switch a ga-zilion times and it's wore out. Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Stan IL&TN
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730 |
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I know there are probably two dozen of those lights on the truck but I would want to verify that at least one bulb is good such as the one you remove to do as Jay suggested. If one tests good you can be pretty sure most if not all the other bulbs will be good also.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
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steve(ill)
Orange Level Access Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 78159 |
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If there are two dozen lights and each is 1/2 amp....... then you putting 12 amps thru the switch... Many small toggles cant take that forever.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Gary in da UP
Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EUP of Mi. Points: 1885 |
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check grounding
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 21609 |
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yeesh, what Steve says !! I never thought to ask how many 'marker lights'... spark Should have a switch rated for at least 20 amps DC ( NOT AC). Actually, I'd add a 30A relay. Then new switch would last forever.... Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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Tbone95
Orange Level Access Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 11430 |
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No, the high amperage would be going through the relay, right?
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jaybmiller
Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 21609 |
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hmm, I had to re-read the OP. Since the relay works in the other location, it boils down to 1) no power to switch 2) defective switch 3) broken feed wire from relay to lights 4) defective wiring at relay/fuse panel One test to do, turn on marker light switch goto fuse/relay panel pull 'marker' relay if it 'clunks' when pulled, power IS getting to it, so switch and relay are OK, there must be break in the wire from relay to lights.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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LeonR2013
Orange Level Joined: 01 Jan 2013 Location: Fulton, Mo Points: 3500 |
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1st thing to do is buy a new bulb and then install a new truck, preferably a Pete. LOL Just kidding. I do remember back when I worked in a shop that the wiring in a KW seemed to have more problems than others. I think I would turn on the lights and check each connection for heat. Did you mention whether this was a straight truck or a tractor? If so then you just have to extend the investigation and like someone said I would really suspect a ground. Leon
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tadams(OH)
Orange Level Access Joined: 17 Sep 2009 Location: Jeromesville, O Points: 9713 |
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I would take a test light and start to see where there the test light will light
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Johnwilson_osf
Orange Level Joined: 29 Jul 2012 Location: Mount Bethel PA Points: 926 |
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Jay, I did what you suggested, and I was able to energize the marker lights with backfeeding through a bulb. I then opened up the dash, and got to the switch assembly. When I looked at it, I could see that the plastic housing that the wire harness connects to the switch had melted. The porcelain in the switch for the Rheostat for the cab lights was cracked and falling apart, so I went and purchased a new switch, and plastic connector for the wire harness. While I had it apart, I also checked the wires to make sure that they were working before I installed the new switch. When I take the 12v lead, and connect it to the various other wires (Marker lights, head lights, dome light, dash lights), they all work individually. When I install the wires to the new switch (which is a 2-position pull type), I get the following results: First Position: Marker Lights, No Dash lights Second Position: Head lights, No marker lights, no dash lights. I am thinking I might have a bad switch, as they wires all do as they are supposed to when individually connected to the 12v lead. Could there be something else? A grounding problem on the marker/dash lights such that when I pull to the head light position, it shuts the markers off? This was a slow process to identify all the wires, since Kenworth will not give me a pin-out diagram for the switch, and the company that the switch came from says that kenworth has the diagram, and I have to get it from them. Turns out this switch is similar to one used in 66 corvettes. (part number: BA40600) |
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Allis Express: Eastern PA on Rt 80
8050, 8010, 6080, 190, D14, DA 6035, AA 6690, 5650, Gleaner F2 |
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