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gman54313 
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Joined: 23 Nov 2019
Location: Green Bay WI
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 Topic: Final Drive Nut
Posted: 25 Nov 2019 at 10:15pm |
I have a clunk in my right rear wheel I am hoping it is a bearing but according to the manual I have to pull the hub which involves a nut that I have never seen before. My question is what is the size and name of that nut and where can I find one. I am guessing I will be needing one sooner or later. I have attached a pic of the wheel to show exactly what I am trying to explain. 
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gman54313
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Location: Green Bay WI
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Posted: 25 Nov 2019 at 10:16pm |
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Where can I find a socket or tool to remove this nut.
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HD6GTOM
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Joined: 30 Nov 2009
Location: MADISON CO IA
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Posted: 25 Nov 2019 at 10:29pm |
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Any NAPA store or HARBOR FREIGHT. Will have them.
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DiyDave
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 4:40am |
Its probably not what you want to hear, but looks like that nut is just a double flat. You can get it with a large open end wrench, after taking the weight off and the 4 eccentric clamps, and the rim... Never seen a socket made for a double flat, but that's just my experience ... 
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jaybmiller
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 5:44am |
hmm, any chance one of the wheel weight nuts is a little loose ? I have 3 D-14 centers with cracks from the weight mtg holes. I assume POs had weights and never checked thier nuts...
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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B26240
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 6:13am |
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Jay brings up a good point, could be a loose wheel weight. Take the weight off and drive the tractor around to see if thats it, if you need to go deeper the weight needs to come off anyway. If the nut was loose and the splines bad I would think there would be final drive oil showing around the nut.
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truckerfarmer
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 6:46am |
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The first thing I would do, is jack it up and see what wiggles.
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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer
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Charlie175
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 7:19am |
Those nuts come loose and it will cause a noise. Been there! I used a good punch and beat it tight.
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Charlie
'48 B, '51 CA, '56 WD45 '61 D17, '63 D12, '65 D10 , '68 One-Ninety XTD
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DrAllis
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 7:24am |
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I made a socket so I could use an impact wrench on it.
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DMiller
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 7:31am |
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Called a Double D Nut. Allis Liked using those!! My 7G has them on the Hard Nose Pivot Bolts.
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gman54313
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Joined: 23 Nov 2019
Location: Green Bay WI
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 7:40am |
 jaybmiller wrote:
hmm, any chance one of the wheel weight nuts is a little loose ? I have 3 D-14 centers with cracks from the weight mtg holes. I assume POs had weights and never checked thier nuts...
Jay
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This is a good possibility because I noticed the wheel weight has slotted mounting holes and the weight is off center. I will check thank you for your help
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 7:52am |
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If the rim clamps are wore, they will start to slip and make a clunking noise too. I would remove the weight, jack it up and see if you can wiggle things around to check for anything loose.
The wheel center also fits on a tapered spline, and they can get wore enough to let things clunk. That might be a little tougher fix, as the shoulder would have to be cut back a bit, to let the wheel center go on further.
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 7:58am |
Gman a little off topic but were you March 13th, 1954?  I've got one made by Klutch, very handy tool.
Edited by chaskaduo - 26 Nov 2019 at 8:00am
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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Lon(MN)
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 8:03am |
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I have all the parts you need to fix your final. I also have complete assemblies that turn smooth, if you need parts.
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Ted J
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 9:44am |
chaskaduo wrote:
Gman a little off topic but were you March 13th, 1954? |
I wasn't there Elliott, but that was when Henry Aaron made his debut with the Milwaukee Braves! Somebody broke their ankle and he was the sub that went in.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 10:04am |
And you think your memory is failing. 
Edited by chaskaduo - 26 Nov 2019 at 10:04am
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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HoughMade
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 10:23am |
Take the wheel weight off, then use this:
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1951 B
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Hyperpack
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 11:06am |
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Those hubs are cast and the axles has a coarse tapered spline. I have seen many of the hubs that have been run loose and they begin to clunk as the hub wears untill the splines finally strip. They can be fixed if the splines are at least half there by cutting tapered shims and putting them in between the splines and really hammering the nut tight. Sometimes the hole is too big in the hub and it wont seat right so the back of the hub needs to be ground down to let it go on the axle farther instead of bottoming out. I have fixed many of these successfully. The nut is a standard thread so a regular hex nut can be put on there to really get it tight with a big socket.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 12:17pm |
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AS the guys said, it is normal for the splines behind the nut to wear somewhat, then the HUB will chuck back and forth a little on the shaft. Take the weight off and then jack up as they said and try to wiggle / push the tire toward the seat and back... You will see the SLOP either in the center nut/ spline or in the 4 rim mounting bolts..... I have a 30 inch cresent wrench I bought a Harbor Freight that I use on the nut and stand on the end.. Suppose to be about 500 ft pounds or so of torque... as hyperpack said, if the nut is TIGHT and the hub is LOOSE, then you take off the HUB and grind 1/8 inch off the backside LIP so the hub will slide on further.. I have done that.. I do NOT put shims inside the splines.... And I have also replace the nut with a standard HEX nut.. I think it is 2 inch by 12 threads per inch, but you need to verify that.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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gman54313
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 9:43pm |
chaskaduo wrote:
Gman a little off topic but were you March 13th, 1954? I've got one made by Klutch, very handy tool.
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Is that Metric or SAE? LOL
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gman54313
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 9:49pm |
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Thanks to everyone. I am hoping tomorrow I can get the wheel weights off and rims and then see if I still got the wiggle. If so then I will look at getting the big frickn nut off and check the splines. I am still wondering if this can be a bearing.
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gman54313
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 9:50pm |
chaskaduo wrote:
Gman a little off topic but were you March 13th, 1954? I've got one made by Klutch, very handy tool.
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Its my zip
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 26 Nov 2019 at 10:17pm |
I could of sworn I had born in there, and Ted thinks he's losing it. 
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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gman54313
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Posted: 28 Nov 2019 at 10:51am |
Well I got the wheel and the wheel weight off and come to find the hub still had a wiggle in it. as it turns out the big D nut was loose on the hub so all I had to do was just tighten it and no more wiggle. Spun the hub and everything seems fine so I will assume the clunk was the hub/spline being loose. I think I will go with a hex nut so it will be easier to tight in the future with the wheel weights on. Thanks to everyone for your help with this. 
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