More Missing Oil

Just today I made a post about not seeing oil in my wet clutch housing. While I was working on that issue I noticed a small dipstick on the right hand side of the transmission.

That dipstick would normaly be hidden under the floor boards so this is the first time I have seen it. Of course I checked it, and its also bone dry.

I don't see that dipstick in the parts catalog. Is it an add-on or a legitimate AC dip stick?

I assume that its for the transmission and that it should have nice clean 90W gear oil on it. Is that correct?

While I am asking, how many darn dipsticks are there on this tractor? And what is the point of hiding an important one under the floor boards!!! ?

Edited by Leop - 23 Oct 2019 at 11:08pm

Dang you are putting the brain power here to the test. Don't think I have ever been on a HD 6, but the early ones where a HD 5 with the Buda engine. So the HD 5 transmission had a plug you opened for level of oil. It is down under the seat,were the HD 9 already had a dipstick under the seat if I am remembering right.

Final drives are NOT connected. Each side has a plug on the back of the case about the same height as the draw bar. Fill until it is about to run over. Heavy oil takes time to flow in and burp the air out. Probably need to fill it a few times before it is full. The plug has a square hole to put a 1/2 inch breaker bar in to loosen. Don't lose the copper washer under the plug.

Edited by Ray54 - 03 Nov 2019 at 5:55pm

if your talking about the barrel plugs on the underneath your housing originally there was a plug that would let water/oil out but if you used it in water conditions it would not allow water to get in. if your not going to use it in water related use then I would leave them out or at least drill a small hole in them so they will drain in case you leak inside.

So to clarify. If my crawler uses dry steering clutches:

1. And I decide to take it into the water, then plugs in the bottom of the steering clutch compartment should be left in so as to keep the outside water out. Is This correct?
   
   I suppose that in this case I should also occasionally take those plugs out while on dry land in order to let leaking oil or water that somehow got in to drain out of the steering clutch compartment so that it stayes off the clutches. Then once all the oil and water that leaked in has drained out re-install the plugs before the next trip into the water. Is this also correct?
   
   
2. And if I decide not to drive the machine into any water the plugs in the bottom of the steering clutch compartment should be left out so that any leaking oil or rain water that gets into the steering clutch compartments can get out. Is this correct?

And that in the case that my machine is designed to use wet style steering clutches that the plugs in the bottom of the steering clutch comparment are allways left in so as to contain all the oil that the clutches are designed to run in. Correct?

Is there an easy way to confirm whethere my crawler is designed to use wet or dry style steering clutches? Can I see enough from the access plates under the seat to asertain whether it is supposed to be a wet versus a dry steering clutch machine? If so, what do I look for?

Thanks for all your help guys.

Leo

Hi Ray,

At most I have put 3 hrs on the machine. However for the last hour of that three the clutch was slipping. After adjusting the clutch I was able to confirm with the machine in neutral that the clutch engaged, disengaged and that the clutch brake would bring the spining input shaft to the transmission to a complete stop.

I then washed out all the clutch dust using diesel and let it drain into the clutch oil reservoir. I then restarted the machine and with the diesel combined with the oil already in the sump I observed the pump throwing a spray of the mixture into the clutch housing.

At this point I was thinking to drain the diesel oil mixture, change the filter, and fill with whatever oil I can find around the house that will work for testing and leak hunting. Then put her under a load to see if the whole thing works. If it does, and the test oil I used was not what you specified then i would drain the test oil and fill her with ATF and a new filter as you specified.

I have some clean hydraulic fluid and muti-weight engine oil if the sump doesnt take a lot of oil. I have some peanut butter hydraulic oil (hydraulic oil that got some water in it) if that would work. Worst case I'll test and look for leaks using brand new ATF.

All I need in order to get it done today is to decide on the test oil to use, and find a way to get the steel plug unfrozen from the aluminium sump. Same thing happens to the Detroit's on my boat, so I have a few ideas about that. Worst case I'll go pick up one of those machines that can suck the oil out of the dipstick tube.

Thoughts?

Edited by Leop - 06 Nov 2019 at 10:08am

Thanks dnoym. I had these from past kindhearted souls that have showen them to me in the past.

But, it's always nice to know that there are other kind hearted souls that will help when needed.

:)

Your way past what I know.  Never so prosperous as to get anything that new.

The  wet clutch machines have a dipstick next to the engine oil dipstick on the left side. Tha pump is under the fuel injection pump. Power steering-power brake tractors have two additional pumps driven off the back of the oil clutch pump.