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sadmyentist 
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 Topic: WD45 comfort mods
Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 12:37pm |
Another dumb question. I SWEAR I read a thread here about someone who modified a WD or WD45 by changing around the clutch pedal and steering column angle to make things more ergonomic. Now, of course, I can't find it. Ring any bells for anyone?
I've been puzzling over how it would even be possible to make the steering column more vertical with a WD45 steering box. Seems like it would take two u-joints.
The colder it gets, the more I overthink things.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 12:53pm |
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I don’t know either, but I like the idea!
Terry Nowak has a special WC I believe his dad built? Maybe he’ll see this and post a pic.
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sadmyentist
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 2:47pm |
 CrestonM wrote:
I don’t know either, but I like the idea!
Terry Nowak has a special WC I believe his dad built? Maybe he’ll see this and post a pic. |
I'm kinda relieved that I didn't get flamed for thinking of modifying one of these machines! I love the WD45 mechanically, but that sitting position sure can beat the body up pretty bad.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 5:57pm |
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If you install the flip up seat hinge it moves the seat back and to he left it's a couple inches each direction but makes a differance. I'm 6 ft and 270 lbs the only problem I have now is my size 13 boots. Shoes are Ok but winter boots get stuck under the brake pedal. I have Cabs on both my WD 45s so foot spade is tight.
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B26240
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 6:41pm |
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Years ago I saw a WD and a WC by Sisiton SD that a guy modified, looked sort of like a VAC Case and yes there were two u-joints in the steering shaft. Driver sat in the center of the tractor if my memory is right.
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CrestonM
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 7:03pm |
sadmyentist wrote:
CrestonM wrote:
I don’t know either, but I like the idea!
Terry Nowak has a special WC I believe his dad built? Maybe he’ll see this and post a pic. |
I'm kinda relieved that I didn't get flamed for thinking of modifying one of these machines! I love the WD45 mechanically, but that sitting position sure can beat the body up pretty bad. |
True. I really like the snap coupler system, with traction booster, power shift wheels, and the wet hand clutch. Not to mention the snappy governors they have. I'm 6' 3", and I just can't get comfortable on them, as much as I want to learn to like them. Hand clutch hits my knee, left leg feels like it needs to be longer than the right, and the seat doesn't do me any favors.
Hopefully Terry won't mind...here's a video I took of his tractor from one of the Orange Spectacular shows. I believe he said it has live hydraulics, for the 3pt.
Edited by CrestonM - 21 Oct 2019 at 7:08pm
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Bill_MN
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 7:12pm |
The best comfort mod to a WD/45 is to drive something else.... 
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1951 WD #78283, 1918 Case 28x50 Thresher #76738, Case Centennial B 2x16 Plow
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Claus
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 7:23pm |
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The conversion is called the D17, the D17 Series IV I you want the best.
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MACK
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 9:15pm |
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I have always liked how the 45s set. Especially when pulling something behind.MACK
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 9:22pm |
Claus wrote:
The conversion is called the D17, the D17 Series IV I you want the best. |
Hell, just step up to a 175D and be done with it LOL!
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 9:27pm |
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17's are fine for forward travel if you don't need to see in front of you....I'll keep my 45 any day. You ever try backing a bush hog in and around the brush with a 17? PFFFT!!!
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Claus
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 9:33pm |
Eldon (WA) wrote:
Claus wrote:
The conversion is called the D17, the D17 Series IV I you want the best. |
Hell, just step up to a 175D and be done with it LOL! |
10-4!
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Eldon (WA)
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 9:37pm |
Claus wrote:
Eldon (WA) wrote:
Claus wrote:
The conversion is called the D17, the D17 Series IV I you want the best. |
Hell, just step up to a 175D and be done with it LOL! |
10-4! |
Just sold #4 to a young guy west of me.....I have 4 left that I think I will keep! Gotta say the D series just set since I started using them.
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sadmyentist
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 9:42pm |
| Hopefully Terry won't mind...here's a video I took of his tractor from one of the Orange Spectacular shows. I believe he said it has live hydraulics, for the 3pt.
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That is exactly what I was looking for! Thank you!
Thankfully, at 5'9" and size 10.5 boots I get to avoid some of the issues you tall guys have. I built a longer clutch pedal tread that helps me a lot, but it's a pain to reach THROUGH the steering wheel for starter, choke, and especially the PTO and brake lock. In an emergency there's no way I'd reach either of those.
I thought about that brake lock really hard after I came two brush hog widths from running over a yellowjacket. Thankfully it was a very cool day and they were slow and dopey, so I saw 'em rallying and got away without shifting out of second gear. For those little wasps it's probably better to leave the PTO running for them to fight the blades, and I have a front step on my loader frame so I don't need to fight with the rear "step". But I have zero level ground, so the brake lock is important.
Anyway, I may be picking up another WD45 this week, so perhaps this winter will allow for some experimenting.
Oh, about the seat. I did put on a better seat with back support. I'd be crippled without that!
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sadmyentist
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 9:52pm |
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Those mods Terry did are brilliant! I'm officially looking forward to implements not slamming into the bottom of the seat!
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 10:29pm |
On my project called "Schwartz", I've moved the operator's position forward, placing the seat essentially centered over the shifter, and lowered the frame rails. I've installed a Clear Vision cab, such that the floor of the cab footwells are about perfect to seat height. Climbing in DOES require stepping over the transmission, but there's plenty of room for control pedals AND big boots on big feet. Standing height to top of the roof is, if I remember correctly, about 3" shorter than my 8ft garage door.
It hasn't seen much progress lately, but when done, the Schwartz wide-front end will have fully hydraulic steering, with an adjustable angle steering column that'll pivot up for easy entry/exit, and full live hydraulics to run the front end loader and 3 point. I've eliminated the factory hydraulics, because there's nothing in there that'll be used... but the seating position will be excellent, particularly when I'm wearing full winter gear... I'll also have a powerful heater to keep the operator and glass warm and dry on really nasty winter nights.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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sadmyentist
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Posted: 21 Oct 2019 at 11:54pm |
Can I just say how refreshing this is? Any other brand and the collector correctors would be flipping out. Here's there's an interesting open-mindedness about modifying to better use some of the most useful traits of these older machines. It certainly helps me appreciate the work the engineers put in.
@DaveKamp Schwartz is a WD or WD45? That sounds close to what I am visualising - shift tower under seat or RIGHT in front of it with the shift lever bent forward about horizontal. I can't quite picture what you mean about lowering frame rails, but I'm guessing it's to accommodate the cab. I was thinking of having treadplate running boards, sort of like Ford did on the 8N.
Definitely looking at a front hydraulic pump and deleting the factory setup, since I have no great need for the draft control and no need at all for delayed lift. And I'm not that impressed with the stock spool valve, be it due to design or wear.
I guess that is why I'm not the only one thinking about this kind of mod. The WD45 is modern and powerful enough to really make things happen, and the hand clutch can really let you do some tricks with a brush hog. But it's at the tail end of the "row crop" tractors made for the generation who expected to hang off the back of the tractor and monkey with ropes and levers on older implements. But it sure seems like someone in Milwaukee was thinking ahead, leaving that tantalizing space behind the gas tank with nothing in it that can't be moved.
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Lon(MN)
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Posted: 22 Oct 2019 at 8:06am |
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The modified equipment draws a big crowd at the shows. I am old school. I fix what is worn. I put a flip over seat to center me behind the steering wheel. New bushings in the seat and a new shock. New pedal shaft including the hand clutch and adjust all to my comfort. I can still run my tractor for hours after the repairs. I have added power steering. It's not a today's modern tractor, but still a great tractor to use.
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 22 Oct 2019 at 8:13am |
Good thread on more custom work on wonderful AC powered tractors! Thanks! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 22 Oct 2019 at 11:02pm |
Schwartz is a WD with a 45 motor. It was a NF... with pedestal. The Schwartz front end was originally setup so that it could be bolted to the chassis, the tires removed from the pedestal and moved to the WF spindles, and a bellcrank attached to the pedestal, so that it could be rapidly changed from NF to WF and back. I have eliminated the pedestal, however, as this opened up a TON of room for a front-driven live hydro pump and a front lift for snowblade or V-plow.
With steering being fully hydraulic, there's no need to have a pedestal or steering box... just two hydraulic lines coming from the steering valve to the axle-mounted rams.
As for lowering the frame rails, here's an easy way to explain it:
Take a piece of stout steel tubing or channel, about the same dimensions as the original frame rails. Cut a piece about 5ft long, clamp it UNDER the existing rails from a few inches in FRONT of the rear axle, up to about the clutch housing. Weld the bottom flange of the frame to the tubing for a continuous length about 10" each way, on inside, and outside. Now carefully cut out a segment of the original frame rail from 12" or so ahead of the rear axle, to the point where the cab would start. This yields an offset in the frame that effectively lowers the frame in that zone where your feet will be, to the level of where a cab floor will be, when sitting on the seat as positioned directly above the shifter. 
Edited by DaveKamp - 22 Oct 2019 at 11:21pm
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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sadmyentist
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Posted: 23 Oct 2019 at 9:35am |
Wow, that's a radical change with the frame rails!! I'm guessing you'll be adding some steel to connect the "hanging" flanges to the center flange.
I hadn't even considered fully hydraulic steering, but that sounds like a really good idea. A front lift would be super useful. And the hydraulic pump I have for this is pretty big. That would also mean I can make it work with ANY wide front end - needn't be Allis. I'm looking at a NFE machine this eve and that could be useful. What are you using for a torque generator?
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Michael V (NM)
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Posted: 23 Oct 2019 at 10:17am |
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I seen the neatest power steering on a WD at Hutch, the guy used a orbit motor and cylinder from I'm guessing a Gleaner combine, pump was mounted up on the engine, but one could use a front mounted crank driven pump...looked to be an easy modification...I got pictures somewhere....
A Swartz WFE might be a little stronger than the factory AC, but might give up some turning radius..it might also be easier to add a steering cylinder to also...
Edited by Michael V (NM) - 23 Oct 2019 at 10:20am
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CrestonM
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Posted: 23 Oct 2019 at 10:56am |
DaveKamp wrote:
Schwartz is a WD with a 45 motor. It was a NF... with pedestal. The Schwartz front end was originally setup so that it could be bolted to the chassis, the tires removed from the pedestal and moved to the WF spindles, and a bellcrank attached to the pedestal, so that it could be rapidly changed from NF to WF and back. I have eliminated the pedestal, however, as this opened up a TON of room for a front-driven live hydro pump and a front lift for snowblade or V-plow.
With steering being fully hydraulic, there's no need to have a pedestal or steering box... just two hydraulic lines coming from the steering valve to the axle-mounted rams.
As for lowering the frame rails, here's an easy way to explain it:
Take a piece of stout steel tubing or channel, about the same dimensions as the original frame rails. Cut a piece about 5ft long, clamp it UNDER the existing rails from a few inches in FRONT of the rear axle, up to about the clutch housing. Weld the bottom flange of the frame to the tubing for a continuous length about 10" each way, on inside, and outside. Now carefully cut out a segment of the original frame rail from 12" or so ahead of the rear axle, to the point where the cab would start. This yields an offset in the frame that effectively lowers the frame in that zone where your feet will be, to the level of where a cab floor will be, when sitting on the seat as positioned directly above the shifter.
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Do you have pics of the completed project? Looks neat!
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sadmyentist
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Posted: 23 Oct 2019 at 11:10am |
I think Dave said it's not done yet, and slow progress of late.
Nothing worse than regular life interfering with projects!
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sadmyentist
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Posted: 23 Oct 2019 at 11:13am |
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But do keep me posted, Dave! I'm only 150 miles away!
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