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dr p 
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Joined: 24 Feb 2019
Location: new york
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 Topic: head gasket wd 45
Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 6:57pm |
I have a leaky head gasket on my wd 45. Pulled it apart this weekend (looks like first time it has been pulled, still had paint on mating surfaces) and took the head in to be reconditioned. Measured the cylinders and inspected the pistons and they seem to be ok, which I thought was a little weird but I am not complaining.
Question I have is which head gasket should I use to replace it with and where should I get it from. reading the history of posts shows a great deal of options, fiber versus metal and several options for both. Just wanted to get some opinions from people with more knowledge than I
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Carl(NWWI)
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: NW WI
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Posted: 17 Sep 2019 at 10:05pm |
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There shouldn’t be paint on mating surfaces. It has definitely been apart. Guessing somebody used spray paint as a gasket sealant rather then coppercoat like they should have. If it was original engine those parts would be beyond wore out.
I get my head gaskets from reliance. agkits.com and spray both sides of gasket with copper coat.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 18 Sep 2019 at 8:28am |
dr p, Welcome! I used the copper coat spray on the WD45 head gasket. Riley gasket set came with my rebuild kit. 
Gasket from the supplier:
Copper coated (spray) prior to install. I think I let it set up for 15- 20 minutes prior to setting on the head.
Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 18 Sep 2019 at 8:33am
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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wide
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Joined: 29 Dec 2018
Location: north iowa
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Posted: 19 Sep 2019 at 12:49am |
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Anyone on here try hylomar instead of copper?
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DrAllis
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Posted: 19 Sep 2019 at 6:15am |
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Yes. Anything is better than dry or you will have coolant weeping.
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dr p
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Location: new york
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Posted: 20 Sep 2019 at 7:38pm |
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Took the head in today to pike's engine shop in wadkins glen. Great guy. What I thought was orange paint was actually silicone. He is going to pull the head apart and see if there is any problems. He did think there was something else going on. It looked to him like it was burning oil but I didn't run the tractor long enough to find out. Plugs were fouled. He thought maybe there was a stuck ring or a failed o ring at the bottom of the cylinder. I am not familiar with either issue. Can someone enlighten me?
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 20 Sep 2019 at 8:13pm |
dr p, Hopefully you have picked a good shop. All those things and more can happen inside one of these old engines. Sounds like someone has been in there, so you (or the machine shop) may have some mystery's to unravel. Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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mdm1
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Location: Onalaska, WI
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Posted: 21 Sep 2019 at 8:21am |
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If only a tractor could talk!
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Everything is impossible until someone does it! WD45-trip loader 1947 c w/woods belly mower, 1939 B, #3 sickle mower 1944 B, 2 1948 G's. Misc other equipment that my wife calls JUNK!
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Stan IL&TN
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Elvis Land
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Posted: 21 Sep 2019 at 8:55am |
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A leaking O ring would allow water to mix with the oil and symptom would be milky colored oil. No way a leaking O ring will allow oil to get into the combustion chamber. But a stuck or worn out rings can do it but if all were oil fouled I would think it's doubtful that you would have a stuck ring in every cylinder. My vote is for worn rings.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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ac fleet
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Posted: 21 Sep 2019 at 9:55am |
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Worn rings!---- Better do complete rebuild IF you want a good tractor! ---sounds like somebody may have screwed up on last rebuild. I would start over fresh and right. ---your tractor---your choice!
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http://machinebuildersnetwork.com/
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dr p
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Posted: 21 Sep 2019 at 10:26am |
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There is nothing I hate more than doing something twice. Will start taking motor out Sunday. If I pull the radiator, can the engine come out straight? Or do I have to pull a side rail? Already have the I and t service manual. Anything else to get to get it out?
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Stan IL&TN
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Posted: 21 Sep 2019 at 12:47pm |
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It should come out without pulling a side rail but you may have to remove the steering shaft that runs along the rail to give you more room. This from my memory which is not 100%......more like 65%.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy
1956 F40 Ferguson
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AaronSEIA
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Posted: 22 Sep 2019 at 6:41am |
Radiator and steering shaft and it'll come out. One of those engine levelers works slick. You've got to roll the front of the engine up to clear the pedestal until the flywheel is out of the bellhousing. AaronSEIA
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 23 Sep 2019 at 10:32am |
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Remove cotter pin in crank behind spring, pull full fwd and lock vise grips on to hold in place. Engine will come fwd and out. Have to rock sideways a little to get by steering shaft. A little trickier going in but possible. Don't need to remove steer shaft. Engine has to be in line with clutch shaft going in. Not as easy as it looks. You'll think it is but it isn't.....
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dr p
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Posted: 25 Sep 2019 at 9:58pm |
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The only person that is more right than the people on the forum is my wife! Got the phone call from the machine shop and as you might imagine, the head needs a total rebuild and as you all thought the head had been off before and someone tried to Cobb it up. The question I have now is he said when he mqgnafluxed it, he found a couple of "dry" cracks. What the heck is a dry crack? He thought we could work with it but it sounds a little weird to me.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 26 Sep 2019 at 7:14am |
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Cracks at spark plug holes can be ignored for the most part.
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dr p
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Posted: 05 Oct 2019 at 3:26pm |
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Took a couple of saturdays and except for one bolt that held the radiator in place, it was not that hard to get block ready to pull. I went to rent an engine hoist but my local place no longer rents them so I looks like I will have to buy one. Any one have any advice? Only have 4 cylinder engines on the farm and I don't expect to get anything bigger
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chaskaduo
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Posted: 05 Oct 2019 at 4:28pm |
Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-capacity-foldable-shop-crane-61858.html, they have a 2 ton also. Go online look for the 20 % off coupon or sign up for their emails and they'll send you a brochure with it.
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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garden_guy
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Posted: 06 Oct 2019 at 12:02pm |
Tracking this project with great interest!
Just curious -- what was your original leaky symptom... Blowby out the overflow tube while running? Or leaking off the side of the block? Or something else?
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dr p
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Posted: 06 Oct 2019 at 8:12pm |
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Pulled it out a neighbor's hedge row after it hadn't run in years. Rebuilt carb and tune it up and got it running pretty easily. But when I started discing with it, the head started leaking oil. Thought it would be a fun for daughter and I to rebuild engine
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dr p
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Posted: 15 Nov 2019 at 3:45pm |
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Some one earlier in this thread if only engines could talk, the tales they could tell. Well mine is starting to spill the beans. Went to the machine shop today to pay on the head repair and pikes had gotten the block apart. The engine had been going through oil like crazy, but when I brought the head in to the machine shop, they said while the head was a wreck, it wasn't the head. Figured it had to be a couple of stuck rings. So I brought the block in for evaluation. They pulled the pistons and each one had deep grooves in the middle third of the cylinder walls. Turns out the pins that connected the rods to the pistons had not been properly secured and all four worked loose and scored the cylinder walls. I. Will try to post pictures later.
That isn't the weird part. So when they were cleaning the block, they started finding oat hulls in the sludge. The oil filter was plugged with them. Anybody got any idea how they got in there?
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 15 Nov 2019 at 6:41pm |
dr p, Couple things come to mind, but the experts will be along shortly. One is that the pins on these pistons need to be offset not centered as in most engines, by design. Now that doesn't mean they couldn't have come loose and moved too? Sure sounds like your in for a complete engine overhaul. But I dont think you will regret it once its up and going! I like it when I start my reworked WD45!:) On the hulls? I don't know how they would have gotten in the oil? That's strange!! If mice brought them in a open oil breather on top of the valve cover, seems like it would be the only direct path to the oil system?? Was that breather in place?? Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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dr p
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Posted: 15 Nov 2019 at 7:10pm |
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Need to figure out to post pictures of the cylinder walls. It is scarred on opposite sides so I think the set bolts must have been under torqued.
I can't find anything missing.
Thanks, chris
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 15 Nov 2019 at 10:18pm |
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If the last guy centered the wrist pins on the rods when he put it together...that's where your scores on the walls came from. That's why it's important to have a factory service manual. The AC manuals are excellent in detail and instruction. Read and follow.
Edited by SteveM C/IL - 15 Nov 2019 at 10:21pm
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 15 Nov 2019 at 10:40pm |
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My 45 had the same problem.The pistons have to be set to one side on 1&4 and the other side on 1&3 or something like that. The I T book will walk you through it. When you get the engine upside down you'll see why. Leon P.S. The guy that had built was supposed to be a mechanic. Hummmff!
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JimD
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Posted: 15 Nov 2019 at 11:46pm |
Oat hulls could be from failed oil filter. Early Allis filters has cotton hulls in there. When you decide on an engine kit do your research. Lots out there that don't know what they sell. I would be happy to tell you about our kits and why I sell and install them. Done lots of engines and customers have always been happy with results.
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Owner of OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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