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Diesel Engine Oils |
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Let's start a which antifreeze is best thread. :) Actually back in the good old days you could mix and match antifreeze brands. Now you have to break out your color compatibility chart, lest you create a brown slush in your coolant. When an antifreeze company posts that their product is "compatible with all other antifreezes", it ain't necessarily true. Things are different from what they were 25+ years ago. |
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GM Guy ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 31 Jul 2012 Location: NW KS / S.C. ID Points: 1985 |
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For those that reference the manual for recommendations, a first year 7060 book warns against using multi-vis oils, but a last year 7060 book approves them.
What do you do then? ;) I run Mobil Delvace 1300 super 15w40 in everything of mine with a diesel engine. My road pickups that are around little dust and put enough miles on that extended intervals can save some $ get full synthetic 5w40. Ben running Valvoline but I just scored a deal on some Mobil delvac ESP 5w40, so its going in next. A seasoned mechanic told me once that he sees more issues caused by improper cooling system servicing (electrolosis, etc. ) than he does engine oil caused faults. We get all wound up about what oil to use, but dont seem too concerned about the 15 year old antifreeze in the radiator... |
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Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.
If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help. |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87187 |
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DOUG.... HOUGH......
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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This. I'll put up any of today's diesel rated 10W-30 diesel rated motor oils up against any SAE 30 motor oil of 25 years ago for that diesel engine. Hands down todays oil is superior. The old single viscosity oil was the only way they knew how to build an oil with sufficient film strength. The old advertisement where they said that 80 percent of engine wear occurs in the first 10 minutes of warmup was true. You need to get your oil circulating as fast as possible. |
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nella(Pa) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Allentown, Pa. Points: 3117 |
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HoughMade ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Location: Valparaiso, IN Points: 706 |
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It's not about knowing more. It's about modern lubricants being much better than anything the engineers dreamed of 30 or more years ago. That being said, stick with the recommended viscosity, more or less, but if a manual recommends 10 in the winter and 30 in the summer, that's essentially what you are giving it with a modern 10w30 which is a far superior oil than 10w30 was in 1960 whatever.
Edited by HoughMade - 27 Aug 2019 at 9:10am |
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1951 B
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WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4979 |
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I can see no reason to use anything different than what the manufacturer recommends in the owners manual. These companies hire engineers to develop engines. Many have different oiling systems (like the new high flow systems that have been around in cars for ~ 15 years). Why would anyone think they know more than the engineers that designed the engine???
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Higher oil pressure does not mean higher oil flow. The last thing I want at startup is high oil pressure. That means the thick oil isn't reaching the upper parts of the engine fast enough. Detergent or non-detergent shouldn't make any difference as far as oil consumption is concerned with a new engine. Non-detergent may give you higher oil pressure as the engine ages. This is because the ports may be starting to clog. Cheap oil may make a difference. The cheap stuff may be vaporizing much faster. Every engine is different, especially during the break-in period. Testimonials don't mean much to me unless I know every circumstance of the conditions when the oil pressure or consumption was noted.
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Two gallons in a day? He would have almost had to be dumping a quart in every hour. How much was it smoking? |
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Stanley ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 16 Oct 2009 Location: PDC, WI Points: 193 |
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Actually the manual says not to use a multi vis oil.
I mainly use the tractor for brush hogging, so I thought a straight 30w would be ok. Don't use it during winter pos.
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Ray54 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 22 Nov 2009 Location: Paso Robles, Ca Points: 4713 |
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Grandpa bought a Cat diesel tractor in 34, with the dealer being able to bring other customers around to show off the new diesel engine. Started burning oil right from the start. Not what Caterpillar company or the dealer wanted,or grandpa for that matter. Was the newest high tech of the day, but unproven at the time. The bolts about learned to unscrew themselves they had that engine apart so many time. After new rings, then pistons and rings,and finally sleeves,pistons,and rings and a brand new oil with detergent it ran without oil consumption. The detergent oil was developed to help remove the carbon and other by products of burning low grade fuel, that we know today as diesel fuel.If ever a engine needed detergent oils its diesels. Will not get into the straight or multi weight oil argument. But have been convinced by a engine machest that we don't need as much oil pressure to keep a engine going as we generally think.
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HoughMade ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Location: Valparaiso, IN Points: 706 |
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I use Rotella conventional 15W40 in my 2 tractors, all my small engines and used to run it in my '79 Yamaha motorcycle.
For any diesel or older gas engine, I would recommend it.
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1951 B
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Yikes no. Run a modern high quality motor oil. I see you're near PDC. I'd run a multi-vis oil too. Definitely not SAE 30 when the temperature is below 32. What does the manual say? I'm guessing that it wants 10W-30 or 15W-40. |
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Stanley ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 16 Oct 2009 Location: PDC, WI Points: 193 |
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I have a 1982 AC 6140 w/ the 3 cylinder diesel engine. I intend to use a straight 30w oil. Should I use a non-detergent?
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Stanley ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 16 Oct 2009 Location: PDC, WI Points: 193 |
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I have a 6140 w/ the 3 cylinder diesel engine. I intend to use straight 30wt, but do I use non-detergent? It's a 1982.
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AC7060IL ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3516 |
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Acquired a 1978 gas engine that would run lower oil pressure with multi viscosity 10w-40 oil. Dealership advised to run straight 30w oil, which immediately raised oil pressure. It’s still running great today on 30w. Any new parts guy at Napa will usually stare at me oddly, when I ask for a case of 30w oil.
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FREEDGUY ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Apr 2017 Location: South West Mich Points: 5396 |
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We run 15w40 Rotella in the XT and 433 combine engine year/around, now that I think about it, they sit dormant in the unheated barn from late November through early April. I am more concerned about the anti freeze that are in these 2 radiators, pretty sure they are NOT filled with a diesel compatible solution
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Lonn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792 |
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When I worked at the CaseIH dealership some customers wanted 10W in the winter and 30W in the summer. Some used 10W-30 in the winter and 15W-40 in the summer. Our shop told them to use which ever they are comfortable with. I never noticed anyone complaining that their engine burned more using multi viscosity oils but most had their preferences. We actually sold a lot of Farm Oyl brand oils and some swore by that brand over CaseIH brand. One guy had an 856 he bought new and put many thousands of hours on it and the engine was still original and it got Farm Oyl straight weights from new. Not sure if he's still alive as it seemed he was older than dirt 20 years ago but I drive by his place and see his son and grandsons still driving that old 856.
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Wink I am a Russian Bot |
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12132 |
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didn't mean I didn't believe ya'.........Just doesn't make sense to me is all.
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bigal121892 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Jan 2010 Location: Nebraska Points: 811 |
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Dad bought the combine used from the local dealer, we got it home, changed all of the fluids, and put 15W40 in it just like we had in everything else. Combine used two gallons of oil the first day. Called dealer, (thinking we were sold a combine with a bad engine) dealer said drain the 15W40 out, and put straight 30W in. Did that, and the combine would use a quart every 100 hours until it was traded 3 years latter.
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Gary Burnett ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3059 |
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I did that about 20 years ago,so far so good.
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festus51 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 26 Mar 2017 Location: Osage City, KS Points: 1644 |
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I might get the evil eye from some people , but I got tired of stocking multiply oils for all the different engines I have. Quite a few years ago I started putting 15-40 diesel oil in every thing. Pick ups, car, tractor diesel engines. gas engines , motorcycle, lawn mower .
sure simplifies oil buying. I figure it is a step above gas engine oils with high detergents plus the higher pressures of diesel engine. I have had no problems yet knock on wood.
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We the unwilling Led by the unqualified Doing the impossible for the Ungrateful
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Mactractor ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 20 Jun 2011 Location: New Zealand Points: 652 |
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IMHO the choice of either mono or multi viscosity oil is nowhere near as important as the additive package in the oil you want is. In bygone years, the range of straight 30 weight oils available included many with additives for severe duty diesel service. In my corner of the world, those have all but disappeared and to get those good anti wear additives you have to go multi weight. I now only use straight 30 in the Briggs & Stratton and Honda air cooled gasers, and even Honda are recommending 10W30 now down here.
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12132 |
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Not trying to argue with you, but that just seems and sounds very odd! WTH does multi viscosity have to do with using oil, other than the top end of the engine is in terrible shape, and usage would be during start up and warm up???? Just sounds like a very odd statement...
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Mactractor ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 20 Jun 2011 Location: New Zealand Points: 652 |
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Thanks jeickman, That sheds some light on the subject for me. It would perhaps be a mistake to go to the higher ash Euro/Jap engine oil in my old tractors after they have ran on low ash Caterpillar/Cummins suited oils. Something I liked the look of in that higher ash oil though, was the higher level of anti wear additives Phosphorus and Zinc, which seem to be declining in modern oils.
Edited by Mactractor - 05 Aug 2019 at 6:34pm |
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bigal121892 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Jan 2010 Location: Nebraska Points: 811 |
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Not an opinion, comes straight from the dealer. Had 1480 combine, was using two gallons a day, dealer told us absolutely no multi-viscosity oil, only use straight 30.
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Stan IL&TN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730 |
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Best oil you can ever use is the kind changed often.🤔 And yes I may be repeating myself.🙀😆😆😆😆😆
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
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jeickman01 ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 24 Feb 2017 Location: Dyer, TN Points: 210 |
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May have strayed from the original question in this thread but here's more. And since none of us seem to be oil experts. I think that there was a time prior to Tier 3 and Tier 4 diesels that ash was used increase both the TBN in order to neutralize the acids from high sulphur fuel and to add to the detergent properties. One certainly didn't want to switch to a high ash oil on a high hour engine after the rings were carboned up from a non detergent oil and happily seated. And with the advent of diesel particulate filters which plug with ash deposits and government mandated low sulphur fuels the ash levels were reduced. I should think it would be safe to use a current API CK4 on an early engine.
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TimCNY ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 15 Apr 2014 Location: Upstate NY Points: 1551 |
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Well, Doug, I could tell you that but I'd be lying.
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Tell me you're running straight weight 30 in Upstate New York in the winter. That's harder on an engine than running 10W in the summer. |
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