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Diesel Engine Oils

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DougS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Diesel Engine Oils
    Posted: 29 Aug 2019 at 7:23am
Originally posted by GM Guy GM Guy wrote:

For those that reference the manual for recommendations, a first year 7060 book warns against using multi-vis oils, but a last year 7060 book approves them.

A seasoned mechanic told me once that he sees more issues caused by improper cooling system servicing (electrolosis, etc. ) than he does engine oil caused faults.

We get all wound up about what oil to use, but dont seem too concerned about the 15 year old antifreeze in the radiator...


Let's start a which antifreeze is best thread. :) Actually back in the good old days you could mix and match antifreeze brands. Now you have to break out your color compatibility chart, lest you create a brown slush in your coolant. When an antifreeze company posts that their product is "compatible with all other antifreezes", it ain't necessarily true.

Things are different from what they were 25+ years ago.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GM Guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Aug 2019 at 11:17pm
For those that reference the manual for recommendations, a first year 7060 book warns against using multi-vis oils, but a last year 7060 book approves them.

What do you do then? ;)

I run Mobil Delvace 1300 super 15w40 in everything of mine with a diesel engine.

My road pickups that are around little dust and put enough miles on that extended intervals can save some $ get full synthetic 5w40. Ben running Valvoline but I just scored a deal on some Mobil delvac ESP 5w40, so its going in next.

A seasoned mechanic told me once that he sees more issues caused by improper cooling system servicing (electrolosis, etc. ) than he does engine oil caused faults.

We get all wound up about what oil to use, but dont seem too concerned about the 15 year old antifreeze in the radiator...
Gleaner: the properly engineered and built combine.

If you need parts for your Gleaner, we are parting out A's through L2's, so we may be able to help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2019 at 7:13pm
DOUG.... HOUGH...... Thumbs Up    Thumbs Up   Thumbs Up
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2019 at 12:29pm
Originally posted by HoughMade HoughMade wrote:

It's not about knowing more.  It's about modern lubricants being much better than anything the engineers dreamed of 30 or more years ago.  That being said, stick with the recommended viscosity, more or less, but if a manual recommends 10 in the winter and 30 in the summer, that's essentially what you are giving it with a modern 10w30 which is a far superior oil than 10w30 was in 1960 whatever.

This.

I'll put up any of today's diesel rated 10W-30 diesel rated motor oils up against any SAE 30 motor oil of 25 years ago for that diesel engine. Hands down todays oil is superior. The old single viscosity oil was the only way they knew how to build an oil with sufficient film strength. The old advertisement where they said that 80 percent of engine wear occurs in the first 10 minutes of warmup was true. You need to get your oil circulating as fast as possible.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nella(Pa) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2019 at 9:41am
Originally posted by festus51 festus51 wrote:

I might get the evil eye from some people ,  but I got tired of stocking multiply oils for all the different engines I have.  Quite a few years ago I started putting 15-40  diesel oil in every thing.  Pick ups, car, tractor diesel engines. gas engines , motorcycle, lawn mower .
sure simplifies oil buying.  I figure it is a step above gas engine oils with high detergents plus the higher pressures of diesel engine.  I have had no problems yet  knock on wood.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HoughMade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2019 at 9:09am
It's not about knowing more.  It's about modern lubricants being much better than anything the engineers dreamed of 30 or more years ago.  That being said, stick with the recommended viscosity, more or less, but if a manual recommends 10 in the winter and 30 in the summer, that's essentially what you are giving it with a modern 10w30 which is a far superior oil than 10w30 was in 1960 whatever.

Edited by HoughMade - 27 Aug 2019 at 9:10am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2019 at 6:53am
I can see no reason to use anything different than what the manufacturer recommends in the owners manual. These companies hire engineers to develop engines. Many have different oiling systems (like the new high flow systems that have been around in cars for ~ 15 years). Why would anyone think they know more than the engineers that designed the engine???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Aug 2019 at 6:02am
Higher oil pressure does not mean higher oil flow. The last thing I want at startup is high oil pressure. That means the thick oil isn't reaching the upper parts of the engine fast enough. Detergent or non-detergent shouldn't make any difference as far as oil consumption is concerned with a new engine. Non-detergent may give you higher oil pressure as the engine ages. This is because the ports may be starting to clog. Cheap oil may make a difference. The cheap stuff may be vaporizing much faster. Every engine is different, especially during the break-in period. Testimonials don't mean much to me unless I know every circumstance of the conditions when the oil pressure or consumption was noted.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 6:07pm
Originally posted by bigal121892 bigal121892 wrote:

Dad bought the combine used from the local dealer, we got it home, changed all of the fluids, and put 15W40 in it just like we had in everything else. Combine used two gallons of oil the first day. Called dealer, (thinking we were sold a combine with a bad engine) dealer said drain the 15W40 out, and put straight 30W in. Did that, and the combine would use a quart every 100 hours until it was traded 3 years latter.

Two gallons in a day? He would have almost had to be dumping a quart in every hour. How much was it smoking?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stanley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 5:09pm
Actually the manual says not to use a multi vis oil.
I mainly use the tractor for brush hogging, so I thought a straight 30w would be ok. Don't use it during winter pos.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ray54 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 3:33pm
Originally posted by Stanley Stanley wrote:

I have a 1982 AC 6140 w/ the 3 cylinder diesel engine. I intend to use a straight 30w oil. Should I use a non-detergent?

Grandpa bought a Cat diesel tractor in 34, with the dealer being able to bring other customers around to show off the new diesel engine. Started burning oil right from the start. Not what Caterpillar company or the dealer wanted,or grandpa for that matter. Was the newest high tech of the day, but unproven at the time. The bolts about learned to unscrew themselves they had that engine apart so many time. After new rings, then pistons and rings,and finally sleeves,pistons,and rings and a brand new oil with detergent it ran without oil consumption. 

The detergent oil was developed to help remove the carbon and other by products of burning low grade fuel, that we know today as diesel fuel.If ever a engine needed detergent oils its diesels.


Will not get into the straight or multi weight oil argument. But have been convinced by a engine machest that we don't need as much oil pressure to keep a engine going as we generally think.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HoughMade Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:58pm
I use Rotella conventional 15W40 in my 2 tractors, all my small engines and used to run it in my '79 Yamaha motorcycle.

For any diesel or older gas engine, I would recommend it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:37pm
Originally posted by Stanley Stanley wrote:

I have a 1982 AC 6140 w/ the 3 cylinder diesel engine. I intend to use a straight 30w oil. Should I use a non-detergent?

Yikes no. Run a modern high quality motor oil. I see you're near PDC. I'd run a multi-vis oil too. Definitely not SAE 30 when the temperature is below 32. What does the manual say? I'm guessing that it wants 10W-30 or 15W-40.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stanley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 1:03pm
I have a 1982 AC 6140 w/ the 3 cylinder diesel engine. I intend to use a straight 30w oil. Should I use a non-detergent?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stanley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Aug 2019 at 12:54pm
I have a 6140 w/ the 3 cylinder diesel engine. I intend to use straight 30wt, but do I use non-detergent? It's a 1982.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 8:26am
Acquired a 1978 gas engine that would run lower oil pressure with multi viscosity 10w-40 oil. Dealership advised to run straight 30w oil, which immediately raised oil pressure. It’s still running great today on 30w. Any new parts guy at Napa will usually stare at me oddly, when I ask for a case of 30w oil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 8:11pm
We run 15w40 Rotella in the XT and 433 combine engine year/around, now that I think about it, they sit dormant in the unheated barn from late November through early April. I am more concerned about the anti freeze that are in these 2 radiators, pretty sure they are NOT filled with a diesel compatible solution Confused . Didn't realize there was a difference until I got on this forum Stern Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lonn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 7:30am
When I worked at the CaseIH dealership some customers wanted 10W in the winter and 30W in the summer. Some used 10W-30 in the winter and 15W-40 in the summer. Our shop told them to use which ever they are comfortable with. I never noticed anyone complaining that their engine burned more using multi viscosity oils but most had their preferences. We actually sold a lot of Farm Oyl brand oils and some swore by that brand over CaseIH brand. One guy had an 856 he bought new and put many thousands of hours on it and the engine was still original and it got Farm Oyl straight weights from new. Not sure if he's still alive as it seemed he was older than dirt 20 years ago but I drive by his place and see his son and grandsons still driving that old 856.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 6:51am
didn't mean I didn't believe ya'.........Just doesn't make sense to me is all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigal121892 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 6:46am
Originally posted by Tbone95 Tbone95 wrote:

Originally posted by bigal121892 bigal121892 wrote:

Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

YEP...... (milti viscosity bad) that's an OPINION based on your experience I guess........... LOTS of people use 15w40 oil in IH tractors.... no problems after 30 years.

Not an opinion, comes straight from the dealer. Had 1480 combine, was using two gallons a day, dealer told us absolutely no multi-viscosity oil, only use straight 30. 
Not trying to argue with you, but that just seems and sounds very odd!  WTH does multi viscosity have to do with using oil, other than the top end of the engine is in terrible shape, and usage would be during start up and warm up????  Just sounds like a very odd statement...

Dad bought the combine used from the local dealer, we got it home, changed all of the fluids, and put 15W40 in it just like we had in everything else. Combine used two gallons of oil the first day. Called dealer, (thinking we were sold a combine with a bad engine) dealer said drain the 15W40 out, and put straight 30W in. Did that, and the combine would use a quart every 100 hours until it was traded 3 years latter.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 2:32am
Originally posted by festus51 festus51 wrote:

I might get the evil eye from some people ,  but I got tired of stocking multiply oils for all the different engines I have.  Quite a few years ago I started putting 15-40  diesel oil in every thing.  Pick ups, car, tractor diesel engines. gas engines , motorcycle, lawn mower .
sure simplifies oil buying.  I figure it is a step above gas engine oils with high detergents plus the higher pressures of diesel engine.  I have had no problems yet  knock on wood.


I did that about 20 years ago,so far so good.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote festus51 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 4:19pm
I might get the evil eye from some people ,  but I got tired of stocking multiply oils for all the different engines I have.  Quite a few years ago I started putting 15-40  diesel oil in every thing.  Pick ups, car, tractor diesel engines. gas engines , motorcycle, lawn mower .
sure simplifies oil buying.  I figure it is a step above gas engine oils with high detergents plus the higher pressures of diesel engine.  I have had no problems yet  knock on wood.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mactractor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 3:02pm
IMHO the choice of either mono or multi viscosity oil is nowhere near as important as the additive package in the oil you want is. In bygone years, the range of straight 30 weight oils available included many with additives for severe duty diesel service. In my corner of the world, those have all but disappeared and to get those good anti wear additives you have to go multi weight. I now only use straight 30 in the Briggs & Stratton and Honda air cooled gasers, and even Honda are recommending 10W30 now down here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tbone95 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 6:47am
Originally posted by bigal121892 bigal121892 wrote:

Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

YEP...... (milti viscosity bad) that's an OPINION based on your experience I guess........... LOTS of people use 15w40 oil in IH tractors.... no problems after 30 years.

Not an opinion, comes straight from the dealer. Had 1480 combine, was using two gallons a day, dealer told us absolutely no multi-viscosity oil, only use straight 30. 
Not trying to argue with you, but that just seems and sounds very odd!  WTH does multi viscosity have to do with using oil, other than the top end of the engine is in terrible shape, and usage would be during start up and warm up????  Just sounds like a very odd statement...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mactractor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 6:28pm
Thanks jeickman, That sheds some light on the subject for me. It would perhaps be a mistake to go to the higher ash Euro/Jap engine oil in my old tractors after they have ran on low ash Caterpillar/Cummins suited oils.
Something I liked the look of in that higher ash oil though, was the higher level of anti wear additives Phosphorus and Zinc, which seem to be declining in modern oils.


Edited by Mactractor - 05 Aug 2019 at 6:34pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bigal121892 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 6:16pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

YEP...... (milti viscosity bad) that's an OPINION based on your experience I guess........... LOTS of people use 15w40 oil in IH tractors.... no problems after 30 years.

Not an opinion, comes straight from the dealer. Had 1480 combine, was using two gallons a day, dealer told us absolutely no multi-viscosity oil, only use straight 30. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 4:05pm
Best oil you can ever use is the kind changed often.🤔 And yes I may be repeating myself.🙀😆😆😆😆😆
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jeickman01 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 3:08pm
May have strayed from the original question in this thread but here's more.  And since none of us seem to be oil experts.  I think that there was a time prior to Tier 3 and Tier 4 diesels that ash was used increase both the TBN in order to neutralize the acids from high sulphur fuel and to add to the detergent properties.  One certainly didn't want to switch to a high ash oil on a high hour engine after the rings were carboned up from a non detergent oil and happily seated.  And with the advent of diesel particulate filters which plug with ash deposits and government mandated low sulphur fuels the ash levels were reduced.  I should think it would be safe to use a current API CK4 on an early engine.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimCNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 12:01pm
Well, Doug, I could tell you that but I'd be lying. No, I'm talking about right now, warm seasons. I'm disinclined to vary from recommended lubrication, but there's always the fact oils have changed drastically over the years, and much of the advice to be found is to go ahead and use (fill-in-the-blank) oil instead; so I'm wondering about it, looking for clarification.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Aug 2019 at 10:41am
Originally posted by TimCNY TimCNY wrote:

FWIW, so far I've only been using Rotella straight 30W in those 2 engines.

Tell me you're running straight weight 30 in Upstate New York in the winter. That's harder on an engine than running 10W in the summer.

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