D 15 wheel eccentrics

Lay the tire/rim atop two 4x4's on each side evenly spaced under the tire, this gives enough room to reach underneath easily when assembled (inserting bolts).

I found a 5 gln. bucket centered inside and a couple of short 2x4's leaves the rim center right at the mid-point on the rails. Set the center on the bucket/blocks with the mounting holes lined up and with a generous amount of Anti-Sieze on the pin/block area to hold the eccentric lock in-place (fully retracted on the pin), slide it over the rail and down until the bolt holes for the flange line up. Reach underneath and insert the bolts, add washer/nut on top and hand tighten. In this position all the flange assemblies can be installed and you should be able to reach through the center hole and "walk" the assembled rimcenter up and down easily to make sure everything slides easily on the rails.

Tighten the flange bolts to the rim gradually while checking everything slides up and down on the rails as you go and they will be even.

I have plenty of used eccentric blocks that came to me on tractors or used rim assemblies over the years and they do wear thin so you may want to compare the thickness to new as they are worth the purchase price for something you don't want to have to do again.

Nothing worse than hearing that old "clunk" type "clicking" noise coming from the rear end? when driving the tractor and wondering what it is, I have pulled some that were worn nearly paper thin and they had also slid on the rails previously, ruining the rim as the rail thickness was worn down from sliding back and forth as rail stop blocks were gone.

Anti-Sieze is your friend and you'll be glad you did, even if you don't change the wheel position for 5-10 years as they will turn like butter . . . . .

Look at the ends of the eccentric wrench surfaces, Do they have hammer scars?  Lots of times people beat on them.  I'd file them down, till a 3/4" wrench fits.  as for torque, on the mounting nuts, hand tight with a 18" handle should be sufficient.

In my experience, best thing to do is to throw them in the woodstove, in the evening, shovel out with the next morning's ashes.  Then dunk in a diesel bath, and let it soak in a coupla days...  

There's a whole thread, on the knowledge page, IIRR, about freeing up eccentrics, lotsa tips, over there!

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If you are not in a hurry and need to use the tractor, just keep soaking from inside and outside. May not look like you can get anything to soak through from the outside but it'll eventually work it's way in and help. A little persuasion with a hammer on the locking pin end won't hurt but be careful you don't deform the end.

Soak, tap, repeat, or just take the wheel off and remove the entire flange assemblies for breaking down in a vise.

Don't be surprised to find the small wire type retainers on the back of each pin have rusted away or are not re-usable, prettycommon on units where calcium was leaking onto the rims.

Soak, tap, repeat  . . . . .