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SEIA Farmer 
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Joined: 03 Apr 2019
Location: keota
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 Topic: WC Road Bands
Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 6:55am |
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Helping my grandson restore a 37 WC with rear steel wheels. Anybody have a tractor with, or a picture of the original road bands that were available for this tractor? We're gonna leave it on steel, and make some kind of road bands...if I can find a picture, we'll try making them as close to original, as possible.
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steelwheelAcjim
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Joined: 06 Dec 2009
Location: Blissfield,Mi
Points: 1257
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Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 11:17am |
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I do. Give me some time to get pictures.
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Pre-WW2 A-C tractors on steel wheels...because I'm too cheap to buy tires!
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SEIA Farmer
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Location: keota
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Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 5:26pm |
Thanks, I found steel cheaper than tires too. It was originally on rear steel and rubber fronts when new and now has cut-offs. I got the tractor from the original owner 42 years ago, and thought it'd make a good 4-H restoration project for my grandson. 
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savedallis1953
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Joined: 03 Jan 2018
Location: Florida
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Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 6:41pm |
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Nice 4H project, lucky young uns.
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1953 WD, 1953 WD, WD engine with WD-45 crankshaft.
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steelwheelAcjim
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Location: Blissfield,Mi
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Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 7:41pm |
Assuming you have spade lugs (triangle shaped), these bands fit that style of wheel. I uploaded them large so to see the detail of the construction. They bolt on the outside of the wheel, through the open part of the lugs. Good Luck with the project! I am a proud supporter of 4-H.   
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Pre-WW2 A-C tractors on steel wheels...because I'm too cheap to buy tires!
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Mikez
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Joined: 16 Jan 2013
Location: Usa
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Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 8:00pm |
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Welcome to forum. Great project.keep us updated.
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MNLonnie
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Baxter MN
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Posted: 03 Apr 2019 at 8:04pm |
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I guess I have never seen factory ones. Those will not be easy to duplicate. I made some for my C but it was just flat plate rolled. Thanks for the picture Jim.
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Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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SEIA Farmer
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Posted: 04 Apr 2019 at 8:46am |
Thanks for the pictures. I have a choice of purchasing the standard wheels with the 6" face and spade lugs, or the skeleton wheels with cast lugs. Both have the same F&H casting number...same as my cut-offs. I wanted to get an idea on what the road bands consisted of before making a choice. What are the dimensions? They look like a rolled angle iron...about a 2" face by 3" width by 1/4" thick... all one piece? Might take a little mfg with my plasma cutter? Don't know if anybody around here can roll something like that. Would you be interested in selling those?
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steelwheelAcjim
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Posted: 04 Apr 2019 at 11:11am |
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Sorry, Not for sale.
These bands are rolled in a "T-shape", not an angle. However, two angle irons could be joined together to reproduce the same look.
I do not know what the road bands for the tip-toe steel look like, and have never seen any for a set of F&H tip-toe wheels. The spade-lug wheels might be a better option for you to band up.
Have you given any consideration of removing the lugs and stretching the tread of a rubber tire over the face of the wheel?? It gives you the ability to drive the tractor more places, and still gives you some traction if you pull something.
I will forward some measurements soon.
Keep us on the forum posted with the project!
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Pre-WW2 A-C tractors on steel wheels...because I'm too cheap to buy tires!
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SEIA Farmer
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Location: keota
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Posted: 04 Apr 2019 at 1:16pm |
Yes, I've considered bolting a tire around the rim, and still might go that route, especially if we could find some extension rims, then we would have a 12" face for a wider tire. I've got a parts tractor with 13x24 Goodyears on F&H spokes with one good tire and rim, and one that's shot from fluid. If I could find a matching 13x24 Goodyear Super Sure Grip, I could fix the rim, and go that route. Those tires have good tread for their age, but the bead is shot on the one. Finding a good matching tire that age is like looking for a needle in a haystack. They would make good donors for bar tread to bolt around the steel rims, if they were 12" wide.
If I go with steel, keeping the lugs on would preserve the authentic look of the steel wheels, plus keep the rolling diameter bigger for driving the tractor. Front rubber with rear steel is an uncommon combination at tractor shows also. This is a family tractor, and it's a common model with no high resale value, but we want to restore it as close to original as we can. I'm just weighing all our options so we can restore it to best preserve it's authentic, historic value. BTW, thanks guys for all the encouraging posts. So far, we've got the engine out, head rebuilt, crank ground, and a new OH kit ready to put things back together. We've got the seals replaced in one side of the rearend, with new brakes and gaskets, ready to put back together then do the other side before sending to the sand blaster. I'll keep you all posted, and try to figure out how to eventually get some pics on here also.
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ecclap
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Joined: 24 Jan 2016
Location: Iowa
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Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 2:40am |
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I've never seen a piece of WC literature showing that road bands were available for either the flat steel or skeleton steel. The same style of F&H skeleton rears were used on several other tractors including the UC's and Farmall F-20's and there was a special road band made for that type of wheel but I've seen no evidence there was a WC version. I can post pics of what they look like on the other tractors though if you want to fabricate something similar.
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SEIA Farmer
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Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 7:52am |
Thanks for the reply. I've also got some WC literature, but no pictures of road bands. I've seen them on other tractors at shows, but until now, haven't paid close attention to them. The tractor we're restoring has F&H HC119 rear wheels converted to 28" cutoffs. I have a neighbor willing to sell me some original F&H HC119 steel, and he has them in 40x6 flat, which was the standard wheel, and a set of 40x2 skeletons, which are less common, and would be more unique on a WC at a tractor show. Both wheels have the same part number. The chances are probably 90% that my tractor came on standard 40x6 wheels, and from looking at Jim's pictures, I think I could build some similar road bands to fit those wheels. I'm sure the road bands for the skeleton wheels would be more complicated, but I'm just trying to weigh all my options before deciding on which rear wheels to use on this tractor. Like I said before, this is a family tractor with more sentimental than monetary value, and it's only going to be run in parades and an occasional tractor show, but I would like to have something unique about it, so it's not just another run-of-the-mill common WC. If you could post some skeleton road bands, that'd be great!
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PaulB
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Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 8:59am |
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I have (1) WC steel extension rim available, it has the attaching straps, but no lugs, $100. Located in Maryland.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits.
If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY
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ecclap
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 10 Apr 2019 at 5:02pm |
The F&H lugs are notched to accept a road band or meadow band in the center. This was by design as the F&H skeletons were an entire patented wheel system meant to work in all conditions.
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SEIA Farmer
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Posted: 11 Apr 2019 at 9:13am |
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Thanks for the skeleton road band pic. Those look like something about 1" thick...almost like a wooden wagon wheel rim. Do you have any idea what material they were made of? A guy could roll 3 or 4 quarter inch strap irons, and stack them together to obtain that look.
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ecclap
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Posted: 11 Apr 2019 at 3:55pm |
They are 2 piece made of rolled channel just like a flat steel wheel band. Road bands stuck out past the lugs and the meadow bands allowed some lug tip penetration for haying.
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SEIA Farmer
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Posted: 11 Apr 2019 at 8:30pm |
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Oh, now I see. Thanks for the picture!
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allis g
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Posted: 11 Apr 2019 at 10:57pm |
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I made my own road bands for my 41 c. Had 1/4”x6” flat bar rolled to fit the O.D. of the steel spikes then used 3M rubber adhesive and glued new retread rubber that I got from the local tire plant. Bolted the whole assembly to the steel wheels.
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