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Wot 
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 Topic: Model A carburator
Posted: 25 Mar 2019 at 4:08pm |
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Hi guys,
My A won’t run good. When I look in the manual I think the carburator isn’t the original one.
The parts manual says it needs to be E-2189 (Zenith)
Who knows what the correct Zenith number is? (Maybe it is the same as a model 20-35?)
Thanks in advance!
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DaveKamp
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Joined: 12 Apr 2010
Location: LeClaire, Ia
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Posted: 25 Mar 2019 at 10:17pm |
Hi Wot!
Funny you should ask that... I was just reading the November/December 2017 issue of The Restorer: The Model A Ford Club of America... article starting Page 8: A Guide to Zenith Carbeurators - Part 5, The 1931 Zenith Carbeurators and Beyond, by Steve Schumach, Spokane, Washington (USA).
I was amazed by the variations that occurred just in 1931. I suspect that you'll find that your year has it's own variations as well. Many of those Zenith carbeurators were NOT made by Zenith, many were made under liscense by Ford, through their suppliers.
the Model A Zenith had one feature (the mixture control/choke rod) that was kinda unique to the Model A Ford. i don't know if the 20-35 used that type of control, but I would NOT be surprised if it was similar, and I would NOT be surprised if someone fitted a Model A carb to something else.
You say yours 'won't run good'... that sounds normal. My dad's '29 A pickup won't 'run good'... but it won't 'start good', and certainly won't 'stop good'... it has the factory-standard 'anti-lock brake' feature... step on the brake, and three of the four won't work, but one will lock. Release, and step on it again, and one of the OTHERs locks, and the rest don't  The ride is rough, the steering is spooky, exhaust is smelly, the clutch chatters, the battery is always weak, and it tends to get overheated in parades.
Kinda... well... alot... like my wife... 
send me an Email address, and I'll take some good pictures of the pages of this article for you.
Edited by DaveKamp - 25 Mar 2019 at 10:18pm
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Leesok
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Posted: 26 Mar 2019 at 12:24am |
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C6EV Zenith
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Wot
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Posted: 26 Mar 2019 at 1:23am |
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Ok, thanks!!
Another question, how is the timing correct for these engines? I have a SPARK and a CENTER line on the flywheel. When does it neet the spark, and are those lines spark and center for cylinder one?
Is cylinder one the one at the radiator side?
Thanks.
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JC-WI
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Posted: 26 Mar 2019 at 3:51am |
The old mag tractors had a mark for 'fire'. When turning the engine over, the magneto was to trip at that moment, which was the after TDC so the cranker didn't get cranked himself. And when the tractor started, the advance in the magneto was set to be of proper advancement for that engine. I am remembering the 35/K crawler said the mag had a 25 degree lag on the impulse and the engine was to be set so the mag would trip at 5 degree past TDC and when the impulse quit retarding the spark, it was advanced to 20 degrees BTDC for spark to occur. Hope that helps.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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everett048
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Posted: 26 Mar 2019 at 4:53am |
early carbZenith c6ev later carb Zenith 62AJ12
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Butch(OH)
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Posted: 26 Mar 2019 at 5:17am |
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As Mr Everett said it depends on what year it is and it also depends on which fuel was used. The all fuel tractors all used the C6EV to my knowledge.
Timing marks and timing your tractor. When visable in the timing window CENTER designates that pistons 1 and 4 are at top dead center. SPARK, FIRE and IGNITION were all used at various times amd all mean the same thing. That is where spark should occur when the engine is running. If you hand crank that tractor and value your limbs pay close attention here. The impulse on the magneto must NOT trip prior to when CENTER appears in the window. IF your magneto has the correct impulse coupling in it and you set it so it trips at CENTER when hand cranked then your timing will be at SPARK when running. It is of course up to you to figure out if #1 or #4 is at TDC of the compression stroke. Yes #1 is closest to the radiator.
Edited by Butch(OH) - 26 Mar 2019 at 5:19am
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everett048
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Posted: 26 Mar 2019 at 7:02am |
K crawler was fitted with same carbs early 1 had the C6EV later 62 AJ 12 both dual fuel carbs 1 has cork float 1 has brass float.
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Wot
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Posted: 26 Mar 2019 at 3:21pm |
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Ok, thanks for your help guys!
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AC: B / WD / CA / WC unstyled / U / 7060 / 710
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 26 Mar 2019 at 11:25pm |
Duhp...  I thought he was referring to a Model A Ford...
(must've been a Monday) Sorry! 
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Fred in Pa
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Posted: 27 Mar 2019 at 7:30am |
U say it will not run good ,It is VERY INPORTANT to have correct hot mag also. Fire out side cylinder is not the same under compression. Just what is it doing ? .
Edited by Fred in Pa - 27 Mar 2019 at 7:33am
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He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead.
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Wot
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Posted: 07 Apr 2019 at 4:14am |
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Got it running yesterday, don’t exactly know what the problem was. Checked timing again, float level in carburator, valve clearance...
runs verry smooth after 35 years standing without running!
Thanks again!
Wor
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AC: B / WD / CA / WC unstyled / U / 7060 / 710
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