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7060 Jack Bolts

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ABDave View Drop Down
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    Posted: 10 Nov 2018 at 11:43pm
Well here I am again folks. To remove the castings from the rear axles on my 7060, I need to make the jack bolts that loosen the wedges which clamp the castings to the axle. I tried a 7/8" fine thread cap screw but the threads per inch are not the same as in the wedge. A 7/8 fine thread is 14 TPI and a thread gauge indicates the interior thread in the wedges is 13 TPI. As such it looks like those jack bolts are a special thread.

Can someone tell fill me in please.
'till later,
Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 6:39am
There are a special thread, YES. I think you have the thread pitch figured out, as I remember it is one thread per inch different from a standard fine thread. I even have a special thread tap for cleaning out the holes in the bushings. For many years, every tractor came with four of those in a plastic bag. I don't know if they are available from AGCO or not, and if so, would be expensive,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 7:01am
A tractor salvage yard might have some.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Calvin Schmidt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 7:16am
I had some of these bolts made by a local specialty machine shop. Threads are 7/8  12 
Also have the special tap to clean the threads. 12 thread is a common industrial HD thread for 1" and larger but uncommon for 7/8". I think a set should include 4 bolts not 3. 
Nothing is impossible if it is properly financed
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 7:27am
Four bolts, absolutely for the double bushings style.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dale Hardtke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 8:30am
You do not need four jack bolts.  Use two jack bolts on the half of the bushing without dowel pins according to Allis Chalmers service manual section E page 15.  Clean lubercated threads in the bushing half will do more good than a half a dozen jack bolts. Been there done that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 8:54am
Been there and dun that too many times. Two bolts does work some of the time BUT, there are times that FOUR pusher bolts are needed !! After you break off an ear on the one bushings you are jacking on, you will soon discover FOUR pushers are the solution to not breaking an ear off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dale Hardtke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 2:38pm
The two jack bolts in the dowel pin half of the bushing do absolutely no good because taking out that half of the bushing while under the clamping pressure is not necessary.  Dealing with the force necessary to overcome the friction of just half of the bushing is all that is needed. Two jack bolts (like the Allis Chalmers service publication says) works fine. I have never boken a bushing or have never seen a bushing that was broken by using jack bolts to remove it this way.  ABDave:  Jack the wheel side of your tractor you are doing and rotate the wheel so that the dowel pined bushing half is up on top. Jack bolt the other bushing half (with clean lubricated threads) and  remove bushing half.   !! DONE !!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 3:36pm
Well, Allis-Chalmers sure could have saved a lot of $$$$ by NOT providing four pusher bolts then. You do it whatever way you want. And I'll do it the way I want.  I've apparently had some wheel axle bushings much tighter than anything you've ever experienced.  By telling others they will never ever need to use four pusher bolts is just foolish. Have a great day!!      And by the way, I have seen a broken bushing. I was the one who did it by trying to use only two pusher bolts.

Edited by DrAllis - 11 Nov 2018 at 3:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Calvin Schmidt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 4:44pm
A-C would have done everyone a favor if they had included a tap in the kit. Likely 99 % would have been lost or never used. I just took all the 32" cast centers of an 8550 that had never been inside for a day and the wheels never moved. Got it done with three pusher pusher bolts, a big sledge, and lots of patience. I took one of the borrowed pusher bolts to have 12 more made and got a tap. Have more to get loose. I like going into battle with lots of ammo. The pusher bolts push the center off the wedges so I think four are better than three. Agree with Dale that clean threads is a big part of having success.    

Edited by Calvin Schmidt - 11 Nov 2018 at 4:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mikez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 7:56pm
I think I know what your talking about but in case not could you explain what your talking about, have any pictures. If allis. Supplied them is there part numbers. Thanks

Edited by Mikez - 11 Nov 2018 at 8:24pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MACK Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 8:17pm
I have had to use four pusher bolts a lot of times. If you have worked on as many tractors as Dr. And I have, you would see a lot of things that is not in the book.     MACK
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 9:04pm
as a side note,didn't someone say they C/IH used a jack bolt with same demensions? 7120 maybe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ABDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 9:36pm
Looks like I will be visiting the local machine shop. I have an old Clausen lathe but the gearing for thread cutting is too worn for accurate threads. I'm hoping to find a tap as well. The threads in what I call the 'wedges' are too rusted and dirty to expect any measure of success. 
After stumbling around the internet for a while, it looks like 7/8-12 TPI is more common in the UK then North America too. 

'till later,
Dave  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ron(AB) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 2018 at 11:54pm
Dave,

You can borrow those bolts from Pentagon.   You don't have to make them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Calvin Schmidt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 6:10am
Ron, send me a PM, I'll sell you some pusher bolts reasonable. I don't need 12 










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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 6:21am
Don't know if they are the same,but I looked up bolts for the XT;part #70235674- takes 3 bolts in this application. I googled that # and found an outlet for them for $83 Ermm,I would hope that is for all 3?? I suppose that might be less expensive in the end vrs. labor setting up and machining from scratch ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dale Hardtke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 7:23am
FREEGUY:  The bushing used on the AC 190 is a one piece bushing with smaller jack bolts. Totally different than the two piece bushing used on other model Allis Chalmers tractors. Dr. Allis wil probably call you foolish if you do not use four  jack bolts but three is all that is used.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 7:37am
Just to add a little clarity, the D19/190/200/D21/7000 use the smaller trianglular hub, which only uses 3 bolts to hold it tight, but they also use all 3 holes tapped 3/4" Coarse to use the smaller jack bolts. The 210/220 use the bigger 2 piece wedges, (and jack bolts 7/8" -12)which have 3 bolts on each half. The thought of 3 jack bolts used on these is because the one half has tapped holes, the other half does not. It seems to me the need for 4 jack bolts came later in the 7000 series run, the 7010/7020/8010 only use 4 bolts to tighten the 2 wedges(a way to cheapen the cast hubs) and I think all 4 bolt holes are tapped for jack bolts. If the hubs are tapped for 4 by all means use them if you have them. But if only 3 are tapped, well, that answers that lol! Now, lets all have a beer and shoot the $h!t! lol!

Edited by injpumpEd - 12 Nov 2018 at 12:38pm
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mikez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 8:19am
Ed you stopped before 8000. Thanks, then we can have a beer lol

Edited by Mikez - 12 Nov 2018 at 8:52am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hurst Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 8:47am
1979 Allis Chalmers 7000
5800 Hours
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael V (NM) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 9:36am
I need to fix a leakin axle seal on my 7060,, so I'll be lookin for a set of these bolts...and a tap.I would like to move the hubs "in" a few inches also...I think the side with the leaky seal prolly break loose fairly easy,, now the other,,,, gonna be different...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dale Hardtke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 6:03pm
Ed:   You are absolutely correct.  Lots of the two piece bushing sets do not have tapped 7/8 -12 holes to accept the jack bolts in  the dowel half. I just checked  approx. 30 sets of 3.625   3.750  4.000and found that about half of them did not have tapped holes for jack bolts.  Maybe that is why the service publication does not mention using four jack bolts.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote littlemarv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 6:27pm
Someone needs to make a video demonstrating whatever in the hell you guys are trying to do.... I see this topic come up now and then, and would be interested in learning the how and why of whatever jack bolts are used for.

I may never have an Allis that new or large....(never say never)!
The mechanic always wins.

B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Nov 2018 at 6:49pm
1964 ALLIS-CHALMERS 190 at AuctionTime.com Can you see the triangle wedge on the axle? The pusher bolts go in the holes that currently have the 3 regular bolts in them to tighten the wedge on the axle. The pusher bolts are tapered to loosen the wedges.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ABDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 2018 at 12:01am
Well I got lucky. I was chat'n with my neighbour who told me of a fella a few miles away who once had a 7030, so I called him and sure enough he had those jack bolts and said I was welcome to use'm.

Ron
Thanks for the tip. Should have thought of that.
'till later 
Dave
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BrianC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2018 at 7:44am
This is for Marv, but others please comment if I got it right.

Open up the Agco parts book online for 7060, go to page 302.
Study that. The bushings have bore inside to the axle diameter, tapered on the outside to fit the tapered hole in the wheel disk. The bushing #7, with the 2 pins also has a machined in key to fit the key way slot on the axle. I presume the lip of that bushing contacts the wheel face. This bushing therefore locates on a face, a tapered bore and two pins, and locates the axle concentric with the wheel. It is highly constrained dimensionally, so must be machined right.  Three 3/4-10 bolts secure it to the wheel.

The other bushing, #8, the simple one, is placed in there and then it's (3) 3/4-10 bolts are tightened. Because of the taper in the wheel disc and matching taper on the bushing, as the 3/4-10 bolts are tightened it is wedge locked tight. The lip on this bushing doesn't contact the wheel.

How to take it apart to remove wheel or adjust thread width.
You have to pop out loose the #8 bushing some how. Remove the (3) 3/4-10 bolts securing bushing #8. Now come the use of the jack bolts. Little design details. In the wheel disk are the 3/4-10 threaded holes. They are not drilled through, but rather are blind holes. The (2) end holes in the head lip of #8 bushing are threaded 7/8-12. The holes function is as clearance holes for the 3/4-10 bolts. Other function is they provide threads for the jack bolts to do its job. The jack bolt- imagine a 7/8-12 full threaded bolt, 6" long. Now turn down the end to maybe 5/8" (to clear the 3/4-10 threads), 3" long.
Insert the jack bolts into #8 holes, engage the threads. The point of the bolt will clear the 3/4" threads in the wheels holes. Eventually the tip of the jack bolt will bottom out in the blind hole of the wheel. Now turn hard with a wrench and you have a pushing out action to force that tapered bushing out loose.
At some point the bushing #7 also got threaded 7/8-12 on its holes. This is the two or four jack-bolt debate.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dale Hardtke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2018 at 9:18am
BrianC  You are correct and explained the procedure correctly. The dowel bushing half needs to be secured tight against the wheel casting to locate the wheel properly. The dowel half bushing that you might have removed could have the 7/8-12 holes tapped, but not all dowel half bushings did. Many had just a clearance hole for 3/4 -10  hex head bolt. This is why Allis Chalmers service publication instructs to use two jack bolts in the no dowel bushing to remove the wheel castings.  I just do not get it.  If you follow this procedure you will be labeled as FOOLISH by some that should know better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2018 at 5:38pm
Obviously the three pusher bolts on the non-keyed bushing design wasn't good enough. That's why they "re-designed" it to four pusher bolts in BOTH bushings.  For those of us that have had to use all four pusher bolts (because two wouldn't get it done) we noticed that the whole wheel center gets pushed off of BOTH bushings. They are stuck to the axle, which is why sometimes two pusher bolts is inadequate. Any other questions ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote amac Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 2018 at 7:57pm
Have to agree with the Dr on this one. When removing wheels from the axle for painting the wheel center always gets pushed off of the wedges. Then the wedges can be removed.
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