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Ten Ton running gear |
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34224 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 28 Jun 2018 at 1:25pm |
Working on an old wagon that was set aside some 20 years ago due to hard steering and am working on it. We bought it back in the 70's from a place in Milltown Wi. called Mulligans Imp. if I remember correctly. had a nice label on it saying TEN TON... and a sticky little metalic plate too with name, date, serial and model number, what is left of it is in upper left corner of pic under the finger. Don't remember who made it. ![]() The tie-rods were cam eccentric and were pinched in between the holder on the tie-rods and turned in the arm. ![]() wagon spindles usually come up through a tube... these were between the main frame "I" beam and a lower bracket with a bolt going up through the verticle and threaded into a block welded in the web of the frame. Front bolster is upside down in picture. ![]() This is the left side, bolt heads were welded into place once they were set, I cut those welds loose and discovered this bolt was snapped off between the vertical and the lower holder, sometime ago. To get the verticle stem out, had to cut the lower bracket from the frame, and the spindle assembly screwed off... ![]() There was a thrust ball bearing between the assembly and the frame being the reason this wagon turned so easy with a heavy load on it, but did not stop the bolt from rusting inside the vertical. You can see the thrust washer on the frame by the hub, and can see the snapped off bolt stuck in the verticle part of the spindle assembly. Had it in a 20 ton press and it did not move. ![]() Question is, Does anyone remember who made these wagons? On the metal tag it says, 'OAD MA', that is not enough to jog my memory for the name or where they were built. Next question, think fifty ton press will press out the bolts... without heating? LOL Thanks for looking.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 11997 |
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Looks like you got your work ahead of you. Good luck.
I saw the "oad ma" sticker. At first I thought it was part of the manufacturer name, then thought maybe it used to say ROAD MAX followed by a speed.....IDK, just looking.
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chaskaduo ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 26 Nov 2016 Location: Twin Cities Points: 5200 |
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How about Road Master or Load Master?
I found Load Master Trailers on Bing search engine. http://www.maxloadtrailers.com/
Edited by chaskaduo - 28 Jun 2018 at 2:04pm |
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1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
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wfmurray ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Bostic NC Points: 1225 |
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Bore a hole in snapped bolt and then press . The heat and expandion will help.
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AC7060IL ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3489 |
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Those steer spindles remind me of the older Montgomery Wards brand "Low-Load" wagon running gear. They were built by Electric Wheel Company.
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8435 |
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Nice project! I think I would like to have a running gear and nice hay rack for some reason? Maybe hay rides??
Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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AC7060IL ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3489 |
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JC(WI), Do the wheel hubs have any raised (Braille) letters or numbers cast into they're back sides? If so, they'll usually be labelled by or between lug holes.
Edited by AC7060IL - 29 Jun 2018 at 11:30am |
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34224 |
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AC7060, There are numbers on the hub EWC Q670 ![]() Think your close, but my thoughts are that this company bought the hubs and possibly the axles from the Electric Wheel Company. We have two old EWC wagons, both 5 bolt hubs, one from the 60's and the other from the 50's. Both need to have their front ends gone through and new pins and bushings put in to tighten them up. one swings at 12 miles mph and the other starts at about 15. LOL - Pic of hub below Got the broken bolt pin out... I did what WFMURRAY suggested... to some degree, I bored a hole down from where it had broken off and bottomed the bit I had. Made it little over half way. Then cut the thinnest part of the drilled hole out to the wall with a hacksaw blade. Took it over to the press and started pressing on it. Got a longer handle on the jack and gave it a little more, BANG!...The press jumped and some of the heavy pressing plates I had on the deck of the press went flying, should have had a video of that. Decided I should be standing behind a shield I use when pressing ball bearing. Grab the old chevy tailgate and hid behind it and stroked the handle and nearly has much power to move it again, got about 1/8 to 3/16" each time it would 'let go' and move. About the only time I really wished I had a powered press, the pin might have just started moving and kept moving. It sure had a hard shine on the pin when it came out. LOL The next one to get out, I am thinking of putting it in the press and heat the 2" shaft that the 3/4" bolt/pin runs through. These bolts were grade 5, should I look at putting grade 8 bolts in this time? It is not end tension, as much as it is the side stresses that is put on them. Thanks, jc
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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