B with stuck engine

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   I have a 1948 B that I bought back in 2013.  It is a well worn old tractor, and it needs some serious TLC.  I last used it in the summer of 2016.  Due to leaking oil, I parked it outside, down back over the winter of 2016-2017, and at some point the tarp blew off, and water got into the engine.  I bent the hand crank attempting to start it.
Fast forward to this year.  I pulled it back up to the barn and pulled the plugs.  3 of the 4 plugs had aome rust on them.  I filled all 4 cylinders to the top with a mix of Marvel Mystery Oil and Transmission Fluid.  It has been soaking for over a month now, and I haven’t been able to get the crank to turn.  I even tried popping the clutch while being pulled at about 10 mph, it just locks up the rear tires.

I am wondering about the viability of installing a piston and cylinder kit.  I have rebult a car engine before, but never one with removable sleeves.  I looked at some videos online, and it does ‘t look too bad, but I was converned about the possibility of rust or scale on the block interfering with the o ring seals between the sleeves and the block.  Has anyone else had any issues here?  Any words of wisdom?

Here is one of the last times I used the tractor prior to parking it : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQsdYlS4I7o

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ldposse Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 05 Nov 2013 Location: Hershey, PA Points: 26	Post Options Post Reply Quote ldposse Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: B with stuck engine Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 9:18pm
	I have a 1948 B that I bought back in 2013. It is a well worn old tractor, and it needs some serious TLC. I last used it in the summer of 2016. Due to leaking oil, I parked it outside, down back over the winter of 2016-2017, and at some point the tarp blew off, and water got into the engine. I bent the hand crank attempting to start it. Fast forward to this year. I pulled it back up to the barn and pulled the plugs. 3 of the 4 plugs had aome rust on them. I filled all 4 cylinders to the top with a mix of Marvel Mystery Oil and Transmission Fluid. It has been soaking for over a month now, and I haven’t been able to get the crank to turn. I even tried popping the clutch while being pulled at about 10 mph, it just locks up the rear tires. I am wondering about the viability of installing a piston and cylinder kit. I have rebult a car engine before, but never one with removable sleeves. I looked at some videos online, and it does ‘t look too bad, but I was converned about the possibility of rust or scale on the block interfering with the o ring seals between the sleeves and the block. Has anyone else had any issues here? Any words of wisdom? Here is one of the last times I used the tractor prior to parking it : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQsdYlS4I7o

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CrestonM Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 08 Sep 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 8454	Post Options Post Reply Quote CrestonM Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 10:24pm
	A friend of mine tried everything short of pulling the head to get one unstuck. He then pulled the head, placed a 2X4 on the stuck piston, hit it with a sledge hammer, and broke it free just like that. That may work for you as well. He got it running again, has excellent compression (even though that cylinder had a pitted cylinder wall), doesn't smoke, and just runs like a sewing machine.

Gerald J. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gerald J. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jun 2018 at 11:52pm
	You can wreck a stuck engine trying to force it over if the piston was rising when it stuck. Forcing it over with the crank or by pulling puts more force on the connecting rod than it was built for and bends it sideways that adds more friction to the rod bearing and the piston in the cylinder if it breaks loose and most often that bent rod breaks when the engine is running and part of it pokes a hole in the side of the block. its far safer to drop the pan and pull the head, unhook all the rods from the crankshaft and pull the crankshaft, then work with the hammer and 2x4 on the tops of the pistons one at a time, or push the sleeves and pistons out the top and simply get a rebuild kit with pistons, rings, and sleeves and rebuild completely. I have a shop manual on line at: http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf Gerald J.

Butch(OH) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lucerne Ohio Points: 3837	Post Options Post Reply Quote Butch(OH) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 5:03am
	Why people risk ruining engines to save buying a $25 head gasket and the 20 minute job to remove the head is beyond me but too each his own,,. my advise? First off QUIT banging it around to get it loose. The vast majority of the time an engine stuck that hard will also have stuck valves and if you do get it to turn over you will then get to buy push rods, and or rocker arms or if your unlucky a cam shaft and drive gears. Also if you do get it loose where do you think the rust goes? 10% blows out the exhaust and the rest goes into the oil pan where it promptly turns into grinding compound circulating with the oil, need any more reasons to pull the head? Never I have been sorry for pulling the head on a stuck engine, and never has a concoction of magic rust busters done anything more then simply dumping diesel fuel in the cylinders,, I have tested them all. Others report differently just relating my experiences. Fill the cylinders with diesel and let it soak for whatever time makes you feel good then place a napkin in each one and light them on fire. Fuel on top of the pistons keeps them relatively cool when heat expands the sleeves and lets some creep down past the rust. Just after they burn out place a hardwood "punch" on top of the pistons and give it a solid whack with at least a 4 lb hammer remembering that two end cylinders travel in the same direction but opposite direction of the middle two. Severe cases will require removal of the crankshaft so you can work on one cylinder at a time. That be the case start shopping for a sleeve and piston kit. Good luck with it

B26240 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 21 Nov 2009 Location: mn Points: 3865	Post Options Post Reply Quote B26240 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 6:08am
	Well said Butch !!

Lonn Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792	Post Options Post Reply Quote Lonn Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 6:48am
	I bought a C that way one spring from a dealer that said it ran the previous fall. I once worked there so I trusted it wasn't stuck any longer than that. I removed the starter and took a small pry bar to the ring gear and it moved without much effort.
	-- --- .... .- -- -- .- -.. / .-- .- ... / .- / -- ..- .-. -.. . .-. .. -. --. / -.-. .... .. .-.. -.. / .-. .- .--. .. ... - Wink I am a Russian Bot

sparky Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 13 May 2011 Location: So. Indiana Points: 1762	Post Options Post Reply Quote sparky Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 11:31am
	10 mph and popping the clutch is a good way of ruining the engine internals and winding up with a basket full of useless transmission parts.
	It's the color tractor my grandpa had!

HoughMade Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Location: Valparaiso, IN Points: 706	Post Options Post Reply Quote HoughMade Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 15 Jun 2018 at 1:49pm
	Anyone with basic mechanical ability should be able to do the liner and pistons...but I'll give you one more thing to try. I had a similar situation. My Dad had this 1951 B for 20+ years, but one year he started having carb problems and parked out of the way in the (humid) basement of the barn, intending to get back to it. Well, it sat for 4 or 5 years. It never got rained on, but there was enough moisture to get into and rust 2 cylinders through the valves. Last October, I brougt it to my house with a stuck engine. I went ahead and pulled the head (not hard). I tried every miracle mix of ATF, MMO, Acetome, etc. that is known to man and it didn't get it unstuck. Then, as kind of a last ditch measure before the liner kit, I got some Evap-O-Rust and filled up the cylinders with the rust (#2 was the worst, but #3 had some too). In 24 hours, all the rust in the cylinder bore was gone. I then sucked the stuff out with a turkey baster (it's reusable), and put some light oil in the cylinders, covering the top of the piston and let it sit overnight. With a pipe wrench on the PTO (no crank) I was able to get the pistons to move a little, maybe 1/4". No forcing it. The next day, a little more. Then the next day, when I applied pressure with the wrench, the engine unstuck. I rotated the pistone and could see a little rust along the cylinder wall where the piston had been, so I cleaned out the oil and back in went the Evap-O-Rust for 24 hours. After that, sucked it out, put some light oil back in and just worked the rotated the engine for a few minutes twice a day while I was working on freshening the head and getting the carb right. After that was done, this: [TUBE]DrIgsqmttTM[/TUBE] [TUBE]kv-HXI-r3eM[/TUBE] Honestly, compression is a little low, but I don't see a need for a liner kit right now, but some day. Edited by HoughMade - 15 Jun 2018 at 1:51pm
	1951 B