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Hay wagon ????

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Mikez View Drop Down
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    Posted: 02 May 2018 at 12:00am
Hi all. How is your wagons attached to the running gears. I got a new "used" gear to replace a scary one under a hay wagon. Just wondering if there's a wright or wrong way to bolt it down, it only has one bolt in back. My other six wagons are all different. Ones bolted in front ones bolted in back, ones also has chains looped around it. What do you guys have. Thanks
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mike 44 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mike 44 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2018 at 12:14am
I have a chain around one corner in front and one in the back on the opposite corner, never bolted them , very hilly around me like wagon to flex alittle.. never tipped one over..knock on wood and we have a very steep hill... neighbor has tipped over 3 plus a h and s self unloading wagon... I could make a book of the things he has destroyed....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2018 at 12:20am
don't bolt all 4 corners down. you'll break your wagon and/or bed or both. put a couple anti slide attachments on the bed frame on either front or back, the put a loose chain around the other end. make sure you have several inches of flex room on the chains. none of my gravity flow boxes are attachted, just chains on opposite corners and a angle iron bracket on the other corners on each side of the bolsters to keep it from sliding off front or rear. now...you can bolt down the rear to the gear, like if you have a hoist under the bed, but make sure you have at least 4 inches of space between the chain and gear frame. the gear will flex, and that will keep your bed from breaking, or if a hoist equipped you really don't need any chains in the front. I know I jumped around a lot, and hoped this helps, and didn't confuse you. I just trying to explain that the gear will flex even loaded and you don't want the bed to flex with it!
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JoeO(CMO) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeO(CMO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2018 at 4:39am
Originally posted by shameless dude shameless dude wrote:

don't bolt all 4 corners down. you'll break your wagon and/or bed or both. put a couple anti slide attachments on the bed frame on either front or back, the put a loose chain around the other end. make sure you have several inches of flex room on the chains. none of my gravity flow boxes are attachted, just chains on opposite corners and a angle iron bracket on the other corners on each side of the bolsters to keep it from sliding off front or rear. now...you can bolt down the rear to the gear, like if you have a hoist under the bed, but make sure you have at least 4 inches of space between the chain and gear frame. the gear will flex, and that will keep your bed from breaking, or if a hoist equipped you really don't need any chains in the front. I know I jumped around a lot, and hoped this helps, and didn't confuse you. I just trying to explain that the gear will flex even loaded and you don't want the bed to flex with it!
 
Ditto


Edited by JoeO(CMO) - 02 May 2018 at 4:40am




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Mikez View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mikez Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2018 at 8:13am
I know you can't do all four lol. And thanks

Edited by Mikez - 02 May 2018 at 8:15am
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Gordy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gordy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2018 at 8:32am


           Had a wagon that had a bit of overhang at the back and was not fastened in front got the first tier of bales loaded on the back and the front came up and dumped them and myself that was kind of exciting for a minute, Now I  always make sure the front has a chain so that cant happen again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC7060IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2018 at 1:41pm
Mikez, Like others has replied, our gravity boxes or hay racks are usually bolted to both sides of rear frame of running gear. Then have a 5/16" chain or 3/8" cable which allows about 4" slack, ties the box or rack to one or both sides of front frame of running gear. Some have an additional safety chain/cable tie around the center reach pipe where front & rear frames meet. The running gear's pivot bolts in the rear pipe can wear in two, break, & then let frames separate.

Edited by AC7060IL - 02 May 2018 at 1:42pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2018 at 2:25pm
We built our own in the early 70's with Cobey running gears. Had the local mill run the lumber for the main runners/deck/backs and they were 3x12's or 14" if memory serves.
One bolt at front with one bolt at rear on opposing side and "cow chains" at corners where not bolted. Hell for stout and were converted to wooden kicker wagons about 8 years later. Still remember "the ol' man" schooling each one of us boys as we started hauling wagons and you got a talkin to if he saw you not leaving a gate or crossing a dip straight-on to reduce flex.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2018 at 6:04pm
I just built a produce wagon, last year, fer a friend.  I ran a bolt through one side frame, opposite side on the back.  Put bolt through a chain, down to the metal frame.  Just enough play, to keep ends from coming out of the standards, both front and rear.  A little flex is a good thing, on a vehicle, with no suspension...Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael Crowe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2018 at 8:27pm
What I did with my 3 axel wagon since I couldn’t bolt at the back because of the two axels was to cut a 1.125” x 3” slot in both stringers at the front and then put a 7/8” all thread inside a 1” od bushing the full width between the two braces. The wagon also has a walking front beam so it pivots about 3” by itself plus the 3” slot so it can flex 6” before anything has to be stressed and it’s not anchored at the back two axels at all. I know that is a bit of overkill and not needed on a 2 axel wagon but it would work for any wagon and alleviate stress on the deck.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2018 at 9:50pm
Originally posted by Gordy Gordy wrote:



           Had a wagon that had a bit of overhang at the back and was not fastened in front got the first tier of bales loaded on the back and the front came up and dumped them and myself that was kind of exciting for a minute, Now I  always make sure the front has a chain so that cant happen again.

One neighbor had a 16 foot rack on a short gear. He had some balin wire on the front. I can still see that rack as I did 50 years ago, flip up when one wheel hit a fox hole and my brother just kept drivin ahead with the baler. A sharp whistle got his attention, but the rake had settled back to ground level by then.
 We had just pulled out of the cattle shed with an empty, headed back out and saw it all happen from a half mile away LOL
 We never bolted the front down on either corner. The back usually just had blocks ahead and behind the upright, so it couldn't slide and the front usually had a  generous loop of #9 wire so it could flex plenty when going thru dips and twists.
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2018 at 6:57pm
Hey Mike! My Wagon didn't have a front end on it a couple weeks ago does that count? Oh wait... wrong kinda Wagon!  Sorry!   LOL!!

39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2018 at 7:02pm
Third pic didn't show up. Lets see if I can make it appear.... Lets try this..

39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kurzy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 2018 at 7:08pm

   Howdy,
   Allis Chalmers had about the best attachment method I know of for wagon to bunks. If you got a manual for a Allis wagons or chopper boxes it shows it petty good. I did all my Allis hay,chopper and barge wagons Allis way.

  Kurzy
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