D14 Ignition Timing Mark

I tore down my 57-58 D14 in the last month.  Took it all the way down to the diff.  Now I am having trouble getting it to start.  Engine ran great prior to disassembly, however, everything leaked.  Took the opportunity to reseal, regasket, and repaint the tractor.  The engine is nice and tight, but I can't get her to start.  Using the timing marks on the flywheel, do I set the timing based on the marks when visible in the access hole in the bottom?  Or when the marks are visible in the bell housing hole, the size of a quarter, on the right side of the tractor?  There is a mark on the crankshaft pulley, but I see nothing that indicates DTC for it......Any thoughts?  

Do you use the FIRE timing mark for cylinder no.1?

Use the center mark to set initial timing, the fire mark is to use a timing light at over 1000 rpm to check for advance working. At least thats how I remember it. I know if you use the center mark as I described will run. Did one not to long ago. Good luck

If you can't see the timing marks or don't have a timing light you may want to try another method. Remove the spark plugs and rotate the engine with your finger over the #1 spark plug hole. Stop when you feel the compression pressure. Now insert a length of wire (or an electrical tie) into the hole until it contacts the top of the piston. Continue to rotate the engine until the wire is pushed out the furthest. Your engine is now at TDC and should fire up. Adjust the timing by ear; rotate the distributor counter clock wise until it smooths out and continue on until it starts to "load up", then rotate the distributor the other direction until it runs smooth and continue on until it loads up again. Turn the distributor back half way between the two points that the engine loads up and the engine is timed. Best if done with the engine at 1/2 to 2/3 throttle; altho you can do it at idle then redo it again at operating speed.

Ok, runs like a champ.  Timed it up nice with a timing light and the "FIRE" mark.  However, I have a new problem.......The clutch is VERY short now.  I put a new one in and I have a very long clutch pedal travel and a very short interval where it does anything.  The other problem, is that once you put it in gear, she starts to roll.  You barely need to move the clutch pedal and it starts to roll faster than it should.  I have the clutch rod adjusted to the longest it can be (looking through the access hole in the bell housing and watching the threads) but am I missing something?  Do I need a longer clutch rod?  I have heard adjusting the fingers on the pressure plate, but I have also heard that is a No-No.  Any ideas?

Do you need the special thin wrenches to adjust the fingers?  Is it possible that I bent the clutch disk?  I had this problem about 10 years ago on a Willys station wagon that fought me while putting the engine back in after a new clutch.  I had to dump the clutch a few times before it wore itself straight.  What concerns me still is that the pedal is LOOOOONG and the engaging is SHORT.  Any procedure to follow for adjusting the fingers?