PDF manuals

Well Guys, I do admit that I have a piece of machinery besides my allis things. It is yellow not Green. I have a J. D. 450 C track loader and need to find a PDF manual to load down. Have a bad water leak and can not locate it. No radiator leak, no block leak, water pump ok, water out of belly pan. no water in oil either. I wondered if there are any water lines in the belly pan area ? I never knew of any. Any help appreciated.

Does yours have the oil cooler under the oil filter? There are coolant lines going to those which might be hard to see a leak from. Just a thought.

thanks , I will check the sites.

Randal, The cooler beside the radiator is normally an air/oil cooler for the transmission. Some of the John Deere engines had a small engine oil/water cooler, it is kind of an add on that fits between the engine oil filter and the filter mounting surface on the block, with tubes and hoses supplying the coolant to it. Good luck with your search.

Jim, I do not have a cooler bolted to block behind the oil filter. will probably be a few days till I can work on it again. rain here, and cooler temps coming. will post later.

Glad you found the leak. That is a great arrangement isn't it. The oil cooler on the 450E series is a tube type cooler separate from and below the oil filter, a bit better to get at the hoses on it. My water pump had some play in it and I rebuilt it in January. When I got it off I looked at all the hoses, nothing leaking but most were pretty hard, so I decided to change all of the hoses while the cooling system was drained and the access was better. Luckily all my clamps have the hex head screws so a 1/4" drive set up got the ones in tight spots better than a screwdriver would have. I also changed the fan belt as well, while I could see the bolts of the pump drive at the dampener pulley to split it for the belt change.   

The alternator should be on a pivot bolt at the bottom, between 2 brackets, and have the adjusting bolt in the strap at top. Yes, the fan belt comes off the fan and alternator fairly easily. If you need to change it that might not be as easy as it looks. I believe you will find you have to unhook the hydraulic pump drive from the dampener pulley to change the fan belt.    Search T42183, Hydraulic Pump Drive to see it on the JD parts catalog. 4 each 3/8 bolts in a rectangle hold the drive hub to the dampener pulley. You will see you have a C-clip on the splined end of the drive shaft. You need to remove the one at the engine coupling end to be able to slide the coupling away from the dampener pulley to make a place to get the belt out and back in. It will be a lot easier with the water pump, fan and alternator out of the way. If there is any doubt on the belt I recommend changing it while you are there. Personally if my clamps aren't hex drive in those bad locations, I'd change those when doing the hoses and position them as best I could to get at them if needed, without having to tear other things off, just in case. HTH

As far as how the radiator is mounted, I think there is a 1/4" bolt through an isolation mount at the top tying it to a frame across the front of the engine. On the bottom of the radiator, from looking at the 450C parts breakdown, I think it has two isolation mounts with a bolt through each to catch a nut welded inside the "feet" on the bottom of the radiator frame at each side. The wheel tractors used a similar method, i.e. bolts up from the bottom of the front casting, into nuts in the radiator frame.

well Jim, I finally got around to getting the water pump off. sure is a tough job, and nasty one also. fan belt showing cracks , so I will change it. I need to pressure wash engine before re-assembly. when rain stops I plan on getting old fan belt off. when you rebuilt your pump, did you have press arbor or hydraulic jack press to remove the pulley and bearings, seals etc. ? The information you gave me really helped a lot ! Thanks Randal

thanks for the info Jim. I do have a service and parts manual now. I have not decided to rebuild or buy one online. still weighing options.

Picked up rebuild kit at John Deere dealer and will begin rebuild of the pump at shop.

Hi Randal, Glad to hear you are making progress on it. As long as the shaft is not bound solid it should be fine. I worked quite a while to get the drive end coupling on mine to slide more than the 1/8" you had. I was expecting a twisted shaft or splines worn enough to bind, luckily mine was rust build up in the splines of the shaft and drive end. I was able to get it slid back then took it off and cleaned them so it would slide, the wear in the splines is acceptable for a while yet.    

I need a couple as well. Mack used to use that metal style for hood latches years ago, but I doubt Mack would be cheaper than JD. I haven't gotten to getting any yet but McMaster-Carr has some steel draw latches, don't know if they have any the length needed (T-handle Tight-Hold Draw Latches for less than $10.00 each). My other thought has been to try to see if the newer style rubber type will fit. They might be more forgiving of the vibration.

I believe I found the exact hood latches that we need at C & C Equipment in Indiana. they are 3 3/4 inch long, spring loaded , black , hook on one end and 90 degree pin on top. I was on e-bay , business and industrial, heavy equipment, dozers and loaders, newly listed, scroll down to John Deere 350 C dozer listed by C & C. I looked at their store items which are pages of item, used search engine and typed in hood latches. they popped up. 10 dollars each with 7 dollars shipping for one plus 1 dollar added for each additional latch. Check it out. Randal