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Reindeer 
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Joined: 14 Sep 2009
Location: Calgary, AB
Points: 650
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 Topic: D15 S2 ignition questions
Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 12:43pm |
So after I got the D15 home last fall I went through and replaced the points, rotor, condensor and distributor cap. Everything was fine up until a week or so ago. I installed new gauges and wiring harness, last week, and when I went to start the tractor I had no spark. I put the condensor that I had taken out in the fall back in, and it started right up.
This morning was warmer, so wanted to let the tractor run with the shop doors open, while I plowed some drifts with the Kubota. I came back to the shop about a half hour later, and the D15 had run out of gas. Put gas in it and now there is no spark again.
When I turn on the ignition, using a test light, there is power to the input of the coil, however I don't see power on the distributor side of the coil. I assume the coil may have died, but looking for suggestions/ideas of things to check. Thanks in advance.
Dave
Edited by Reindeer - 13 Feb 2018 at 12:47pm
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24360
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Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 12:58pm |
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OK..have to ask.. WHAT kind of coil ??
There's a 12 volt that NEEDS a ballast resistor( really a 6 volt coil) and another one that doesn't,it's either built in or different wire in the windings).
Typically there should be about 4 Amps of current in the primary of the ignition circuit.
If there is a ballast resistor it's usually about 1.5 ohms.
You should connect an ammeter in series between points side of the coil and ground. 4 amps +- is good, anything higher will burn out points, nothing means coil is kaput.
My gut feeling is the coil's burned out from no ballast resistor. Points should be pitted or burned if true.
Another problem could be corroded or open points, so not closing = no spark.
If you get 4Amps bypassing points, then the points are the problem. Maybe need regapping and/or cleaning.
just some ideas...
Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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DougS
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Location: Iowa
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Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 2:58pm |
Since it happened after you rewired, I'd lay odds you have a loose connection somewhere. Check all connections and check all terminal crimp connections. Pull the wire at the terminals. If one is loose it will pull out of the terminal easily. If you have any push-on type connectors, ensure those are tight. Squeeze the terminal with pliers to tighten it, if needed. If you replaced the ignition switch, make sure you have a good switch. Try switching it back and forth several times and see if that helps.
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Reindeer
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Location: Calgary, AB
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Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 7:11pm |
I followed power with the test light all the way to the input of the coil. Turns on and off reliably with the key, which is original. Previous to this problem there was power on the output side of the coil, and at the input of the distributor. Now there does not seem to be power on the distributor side of the coil so Jays comment about the coil resistor being burned out seems likely. However, I am sure if I go looking some more I will find some connections that are not what they should be. Already noticed some, and have been following up on them.
Dave
Edited by Reindeer - 13 Feb 2018 at 8:11pm
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Gerald J.
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Hamilton Co, IA
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Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 8:18pm |
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If the engine has stopped with the points closed or the condenser has shorted you won't find power on the points side of the coil with a perfect coil. A good check would be to disconnect the points wire at the coil and check for power on the post on the coil.
Gerald J.
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Reindeer
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Posted: 13 Feb 2018 at 10:58pm |
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I will do that tomorrow morning. Makes sense, if the points are grounded, that is the easiest path back to ground.
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jaybmiller
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Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 14 Feb 2018 at 5:56am |
If the D15s are wired the same as my D-14s were, the ballast resistor is mounted on a funny steel plate, with a fuse holder, on the left side, under the gas tank. As you've got a test light coming on at the coil+ post, that would mean the resistor is OK ( well, not busted or open). On 2 of my D14s I rewired so the ballast resistor is between coil -ve and the distributor points post. That was 6 years ago when I needed to quickly fix them,still fine today. On 'the list' is to actually mount the resistors and tidy things up but ,well, you know.... one day....  Jay
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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sauto
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Posted: 14 Feb 2018 at 7:25am |
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a quick check on your points ..... while engine is cranking put your test light on the dist side of coil ........... light should be pulsing ............... if not look long and hard at the points......
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Reindeer
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Posted: 14 Feb 2018 at 12:18pm |
I just rolled the motor over, while checking for the test lamp going on and off as the points open and close. No power anywhere beyond the coil input post. Opened the distributor, and the points look OK, but did just pass a point file through them in case that might help. Still not seeing power beyond the coil. Did a bit of research and the D15 Series 2 coil has an internal resistor, so will be calling Agco to get one of those on the way, unless someone knows of a part number to give NAPA for the right coil. Agco is quite a ways away and slower than NAPA, but at least they get the right things most of the time. Thanks for the comments. Its a big help when we are sitting in front of a dead tractor all by ourselves. I keep asking myself questions, and gettiing the same answers.....???
Edited by Reindeer - 14 Feb 2018 at 12:20pm
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Gerald J.
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Posted: 14 Feb 2018 at 12:50pm |
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Test first by unhooking the points wire at the coil to be sure its not stuck points, a shorted condenser, or a shorted wire.
Any car parts 12 volt point ignition coil will work fine, some will have an internal resistor and others will have enough resistance in the primary winding for operating directly on 12 volts. Be sure that whatever you get is rated for 12 volts primary voltage without external resistor.
Gerald J.
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 14 Feb 2018 at 1:09pm |
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Take the points out where you can get a good look at them. Sometimes they'll be completely fried and sometimes they'll just look smokey. If that's the case you can clean them up, and always bend the arm so that the two side match up perfectly.
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DougS
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Posted: 14 Feb 2018 at 1:15pm |
Move back with your light. Does it light at the input of your coil? Does it light at the input of the resistor? Does it light going into the ignition switch? Does it light coming out of the ignition switch? Fellows with a D15-II: Is there a resistor bypass on the starter solenoid? If not Reindeer, then don't go ordering anything yet. You can get a 12 volt coil with internal resistor at any auto parts store. Just don't order anything until you know for sure where the problem is. BTW, when you use a test lamp, make doubly sure that the ground side of the lamp is grounded well.
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Alberta Phil
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Location: Alberta, Canada
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Posted: 14 Feb 2018 at 8:34pm |
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I've got my coils from the local Napa. Just ask for 12 volt with internal resistor. If the parts guy is any good, shouldn't be a problem. I'm lucky here as the guys at Napa are very knowledgeable and more than happy to help out.
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MACK
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Posted: 14 Feb 2018 at 9:09pm |
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If it ran out of gas with points to gather, I would take a good look at points. MACK
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